The site experienced a technical problem on the server starting around 12:15 AM this morning and continued to about 4:30 PM this afternoon. It had a brief glitch a moment ago but otherwise seems to be running smoothly! Thank you BigKev for jumping on the problem and getting it fixed. Much appreciated!

Which parts specifically are you looking for? The solenoid is available as reproduction in 6v and 12v and I see NOS or good used R11 parts on eBay from time to time. I may have a few new or good used parts too but as my shop is 550 miles away, I can't be sure until I am next there.

That's a good plan! I have an inexpensive vacuum test set that also can check pressure, such as fuel pump, which I bought on Amazon.com some years ago. It paid for itself very quickly!

The best test is to see if it moves under vacuum and doesn't leak down quickly which can probably be ascertained by using a simple vacuum tester tool. If there was a pinhole or very tiny crack, then it would return quickly but if it doesn't, then it's fine. Some of it is also to do with how the distributor was stored for all these decades and this one was always kept indoors rather than in the boot of a car!

P.S., I've bought parts from Hagen's and they offer very fast shipping and good quality. Also, Puyallap is right next to Sumner where I stored and worked on my 1941 Henney-Packard for years!

Looks like an interesting movie and I managed a screen capture of the 1940 Packard. Not sure how I did it as it was there for only a second!

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I was pleasantly surprised to see that their kits use a leather boot on the accelerator pump! Nearly every kit I've seen back in the '80s when I rebuilt quite a few of these used rubber of some kind but I've always thought the leather was preferable and will certainly hold up better with modern fuels.

Rebuilding the carburetor should be fun and a good learning experience for you. Be sure to refer not only to whatever instructions come with the kit but also to the shop manual and Packard Service Counselors. Also use a good quality cleaner. I've always used a Chem-Dip tank with basket but I see that the 5-gallon Professional version is very expensive these days! There are other brands too but be sure to use a basket and avoid contact with your skin.

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Once while driving along in my 1941 Henney-Packard, coming toward me in the opposite direction was a 1948 Henney-Packard! The other driver didn't even as much as glance my way so you would think it happened all the time.

Not Craig's List but . . .

Interesting Packards, listed as 1939 but actually a 1940 (appears to be a 120) with a 1938 and a couple others in the background:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153336743648?ul_noapp=true

I meant the 1700 just a couple posts back but the other is gorgeous and seems reasonably priced.

Pump rebuild kits are available and easy to install although I found after buying a kit for my 1956 Clipper Custom that my car had the wrong pump. Once the proper pump was found, rebuilding was very simple as the pumps are of a basic design without the extra vacuum booster diaphragm of the earlier pumps.

You car should be positive ground and you should be able to sort it out without much difficultly as little needs to be done when switching from one to the other. If it was done by accident, it will be even easier.

I'm not sure if positive ground and negative ground cars used different voltage regulators so you may have to replace it if the change were done on purpose but you will definitely need to re-polarize the generator. It's a simple process too but I don't have my notes here so when it comes to that, someone here will surly be able to direct you.