Hawley -- Is there a little stovepipe coming off the top of the water pump on your car? That would be the oiler, and a squirt of motor oil down this pipe would be appropriate to lubricate the pump. Was it lubricated when you ran it? Might have been the cause of the noise you were hearing.

I suspect your side plate aka water jacket baffling is rotted out to the point where the coolant is not being distributed evenly across the block, as it should be. 50 degrees hotter on the backside of the engine would be the manifest result in my opinion. Pull it off and inspect, if it is fine then all it cost you is a new gasket and a little time. Plus you'll be able to clean any rust scale off the cylinders.

Hawley -- Is there a little stovepipe coming off the top of the water pump on your car? That would be the oiler, and a squirt of motor oil down this pipe would be appropriate to lubricate the pump. Was it lubricated when you ran it? Might have been the cause of the noise you were hearing.

I suspect your side plate aka water jacket baffling is rotted out to the point where the coolant is not being distributed evenly across the block, as it should be. 50 degrees hotter on the backside of the engine would be the manifest result in my opinion. Pull it off and inspect, if it is fine then all it cost you is a new gasket and a little time. Plus you'll be able to clean any rust scale off the cylinders.

Been there, done that. Same thing happened to me. Engine had sit for 30 years, and when I turned the engine over 1/2 a turn everything locked up. Figured it was a valve since I had some movement. Tried spray penetrants and MMO, but still nothing. Finally, I decided to soak it down real nice with a 50/50 solution of diesel and ATF. Get a gallon of each, cause you'll need two gallons. Drain the crankcase before you start, cause that's where everything will drain. Fill the cylinders to the brim and wait two weeks. Then, try to turn it over. Hopefully it'll spin completely. Drain the crankcase and clear the manifolds. Worked for me.
youtube.com/watch?v=_QqXKzS1JVU

Yes, the IR thermometer would test the effectiveness of the water jacket as well. The water jacket has a baffle in it that receives the cool coolant (from the bottom hose of the radiator) and disperses it evenly across the head, front to back. This is done by a series of 5/8" holes drilled in the baffle and directed at each cylinder. Frequently, the baffle is rotted out which permits uneven dispersion of the coolant and therefore unequal cooling across the head. If the baffle were totally rotted, then the front of the head would be cool, and the rear much hotter. The IR temperature from front to rear should be a consistent, perhaps around 125.

An infrared thermometer would be my first step. You can get them cheap, like $25 at Home Depot, and will register the temperature of any surface you shoot it at. What I would do is run the engine for 15 minutes, then use the IR thermometer to take the temperature at the top hose, then work your way down and across the radiator till your at the bottom hose. The top hose will receive the hot coolant from the head, the bottom hose puts the cooler coolant back in the engine after it circulates through the radiator. The idea is that if bottom temp is still room temperature, but the top is 150 degrees, then that tells me the pump isn't circulating well. If the bottom is warmer - say 120 degrees -- then the pump probably is working. If your car has a water jacket, then, on mine at least, it can be removed and the impeller on the water pump be viewed. Don't know why the pump would be clanking unless the shaft/bushing is so worn that the shaft is banging back and worth while operating (?) Might be a good time to drain all the coolant, remove the jacket, back flush the radiator, clean out crud in the head, and inspect the water pump while your at it.

I love these scammers. I have fun with them. Ask the scammers if the solenoid is for the four cylinder Packard, as that's the one you really need. The response should be revealing.

Post a pic if you move forward with it; we'd all love to see it!

Thanks Owen - Yes I have checked all the readily available materials I have, but no mention of the thickness of the material for linings. Other references across the interwebs indicate 3/16 is the consensus thickness, so I will give that a go.

Well Max doesn't have the linings and they advise they don't pre-drill it anyway...anyone know how thick the linings should be? 3/16 or 1/4?

Thanks all!

Max sells lining material and rivets, so I will likely just buy the pre-measured, pre-drilled product as opposed to buying the generic material and fabricating my own. Model A parts suppliers sell a small rivet driving tool specifically for brake rivets, so I shall inform everyone how it works out. Yes, I saw the Bendix information on the website and will make good use of it. Stay tuned for trials and tribulations.