Tom,

It isn't much of a kit, the guys at Packard Seattle have found a Chevy timing reference plate (the zig zaggy type) with the same harmonic balancer diameter so it lends itself easily to our Packards. They just cut off the Chevy mounting point and welded on a base that fits the timing cover on our cars. You still have to pull the starter and index it (put a dimple in the balancer) manually the first time. Let me know if you want a picture of my installation.

Peter Toet, Dave (Owen Dyneto) and some others here have probably forgotten more about these cars than I know, so I would take their advice over mine 10 out of 10 times.

Scott

Tom,

As for your points, I think we have the same distributor; a Northeast 10896. I wouldn't even mess around with old points, there are two sets in that distributor and they are about $300 to replace if you can find them, The hard surface of those points is so thin that after they have been filed once you will need to mess with them constantly.

I bought a points conversion from these guys.

http://www.packardsintnw.com/regional_projects.htm

It was great, it only set me back $100, its very nicely made and easy to install. It uses 1960's Chrysler points that are easy to find and cheap. While you are at it, I would look into their ignition timing pointer. It bolts onto the driver's side of the timing chain cover and allows you to time the car with a gun! Much easier than the "pull the starter/use a light bulb technique." If you go to a show, it comes off in less than five minutes. And no, I don't work for them!

Scott

Tom,

I have the same set up on my car (although I have a stock coil). The first thing I would do is get those spark plug wires out of that loom (the metal tube) and away from everything that they can short to; then run it. When they are in that loom, those old wires will short, cross fire and generally create problems. If if runs better like that, then your new wires should fix the problem and you can put them back in the loom where they belong.

As an illustration, my car came with a really nice looking set of repro cloth wires when I bought it (they were in a box) and a set of the black rubber covered wires on the engine. The owner told me he couldn't get it to run right with the repro wires because they kept shorting inside the loom.

Hope this helps,

Scott

Tom,

Your pictures are of a cut out relay only. I think it's odd that your car, one year newer would have a cut out only. The box on my 726 is like twice the size because it has a cut out and a voltage regulator in the same gizmo.

This is my cut out, it has two leads from the generator, one from the armature which goes to the cut out and one from the field which goes to the regulator.

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Dave,

Tell me, what would you consider the safe (prolonged, say one hour) cruising speed to run a 1930 Std 8 with stock gears? Lets assume the engine is in good condition. I feel comfortable at 50mph but anything over 55 just seems like it's too much.

Not to hijack the thread too badly, I have chosen to run Rotella SF rated 15W-40 in my 726. I have 35 or 40 lbs of pressure going down the road at speed.

Scott

Dave,

Just as I feared. I called our main NAPA store and had the guy check your numbers. They are still good part numbers but they show zero inventory nation wide. I guess that's it for those.

I did talk to Larry at MG Auto Electric (Tom's reference) He said he could probably fit a solid state cut out and voltage regulator in my existing housing for a reasonable price. I think he sounded like a pretty good guy so I will give him a whirl. I will keep the original innards in case I decide to return to bone stock. My Autolite stand-in (sounds like the same manuf as the NAPA one maybe?) should be here within a week so I will be Packarding again....

Scott

Dave,

I tried my local NAPA distribution hub, they looked at me like I'd lost my mind... The guy at Max Merrit said they just stopped making those units so that's probably why. I know what a stickler you are for original but IMHO there just isn't any comparison between solid state and 30's relay technology so I will see what I can do and still have it look original and not kludged together. Still, I would appreciate your part number if you can find it.

Tom,

The guy that sold me the NOS cut out/regulator said there wasn't a solid state rebuild for the regulator part and he was quoting between $250 and $500 to rebuild my old one (to original specs) depending on how thrashed it was. I will be on the phone to your reference pronto.

Thanks All

Owen Dyneto was right!

Well I had my broken cut out/regulator in a local auto electric shop to get updated to solid state. After a month of delays I just took it back and I'm glad I did. My 726 has a cut out that keeps the battery from draining back through the generator when it's not making enough juice AND and a set of points that opens and shuts the generator field line to regulate the voltage. I know Tom posted the business that rebuild the cut out for his car, my question is did they rebuild the regulator too?

I have ordered a later Autolite after market two wire cutout/ regulator as a temporary fix. The gent I ordered the Autolite unit from said there are no solid state replacements/rebuilds for the original Dyneto cut out/charge regulator. Anybody have any ideas what's out there and recommendations for someone to rebuild my original unit (back to stock if necessary)? Also, what's the going rate for a rebuild?

Thanks, Scott

Tom,

I couldn't tell from looking at the pictures if you could pull the cover off your bowl while the carb was installed or not. My 726 came with a Carter BB-1, it's really easy to pop the top on that one. I did see a repro brass bowl for a Detroit Lubricator on E-bay but that was some time ago. There's a NORS rebuilt Detroit Lubricator for a 28-29 Graham Paige on E-bay right now. Don't know if it's the correct part number or not.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/?from=R40&satitle=1928-29+graham-paige

Scott

Tom,

I will weigh in with my two cents. I have had a similar problem with a 1930 Chevy with an updraft carburetor and while it doesn't equate exactly to your problem it might help. The Chevy would gush gas out the air cleaner when the car was running. What I found was the "New" needle with a neoprene tip wasn't doing it's job and cutting off the gas flow at the seat. I changed back to the existing all metal needle and the problem went away. I was later told by a Chevy Guru that they don't like neoprene tipped needles.

You didn't say if you were running the original vacuum system or an electrical fuel pump. If you are running the vacuum system there is a lot of fuel above that needle. Were it my car I think I would pull the lid off the bowl, empty it, dry it out and use a rubber band or similar device to apply gentle upward pressure to the float (simulating the correct level of gas) and see what happens. That should help you to spot your leak. I hope this helps.

Scott