At this point, the only way you are going to know what kind of condition the jugs and valves are in is to pull the head, rotate the engine and check each cylinder for wear or wall damage. I would remove the valve covers and check for an accumulation of sludge in the valve train area which CAN be an indicator of engine condition such as infrequent oil changes, crankcase blow-by and even high mileage but then again, non-detergent oil can contribute to sludge over a period of time too. Removing the head should simply end all speculation as to what direction to go in.

Yes, each cylinder will need to be at the top of it's compression stroke in order to see if both valves are closed. Once the valve covers are removed, start at number #1 piston and make sure it is on the correct stroke by aligning the timing mark on the crankshaft damper with the pointer on the timing chain cover. Grasping each lifter one at the time between your thumb and index finger, try to rotate each one back and forth. Both should spin easily with no resistance. You should also be able to move both lifters slightly up and down. If you can rotate the intake valve lifter and move it up and down but can't do the same to the exhaust lifter then it's on the exhaust stroke and you will need to turn the crank a full revolution to bring it up on the compression stroke. Now you can check each cylinder in firing order sequence by rotating the engine in a clockwise direction as sitting in the drivers seat 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4

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I agree Howard, I'm quite sure that there are kids nowadays who have never seen a clothespin thanks to the invention of the clothes dryer and working moms...so yeah, they would be mystified by the appearance of a clothespin as much as they would by penny candy, nickel cokes and Oh Henry! candy bars in a mom and pop gocery store.

Thanks for posting your motor test results Howard and I do find them to be very interesting. Especially their efficiency and ability to move air that well on 6 volts without any sign of overheating at least as far as your tests go. I know you were considering a 6 volt alternator which will certainly help matters so I'm encouraged by your findings! I'm sure you stated where you had planned on locating the unit in the car Howard but I must have missed it, was it to be trunk mounted or under dash?

I never knew flat ducting was even available and it sure seems like it would be the thing to use in limited height situations...that is if, like you stated, it could be obtained from a retail outlet.

Kevin, it's been awhile since I checked on your progress and I am completely floored by your progress. One in that I am diabetic so I know how hard it is to lose weight but you have conquered that monumental task very well. As for the car, excellent and well done! You have put a lot of time and effort into your restoration and it has obviously paid off based on the quality of your workmanship. Congratualtions on your accomplishments...

Howard, very nicely routed and well hidden duct work! I don't think anyone can top your creativity when it comes to offering ideas and this AC endeavor, well I for one will be following your lead with much enthusiasm and admiration. If I'm not mistaken, I believe your goal was to keep the 6 volt system throughout the car therefore I am certainly watching with great anticipation. I'm sure the entire forum including the purists are behind you in this challenging effort!

My choice for fuel tank restoration is the POR15 epoxy system. I have several tanks that have been in service for 10+ years with no issues. Like anything else, its all in the preparation.

http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Restoration_c_17.html

Mark,
Sounds like you're talking about an Ultramatic in this case. I personally don't think retaining the original transmission is critical at all when it comes to affecting value but depending on how I was going to use the car, I might be concerned about the original engine staying with the car. I'm sure there were Packard dealerships all over the country that changed tranny's out if something serious enough happened like a casting defect or spun bushing or whatever the case may be, does it make it any less valuable today if it was changed out by a Packard dealership years ago? Besides, unless it's documented, who's to say anyway? I think there were instances where for instance there was an overstock of '51 Ultramatics at the end of the run and to use them up they installed them in the early '52 cars but did it make the '52 car less valuable because it had a '51 transmission in it? No because who would know unless there was a major change like the early '54's coming out with the standard Ultramatic and then later cars being equipped with the gear-start. I'd probably go the exchange route too considering the experience that went into the build...just my 2 cents worth.

Thanks for confirming Kev, I believe the heat shield is one part that's missing on a lot of our vehicles including mine because over the years they were left off after repairs were made and were viewed upon as "uneccesary" for the car to run correctly...so the ones that threw them in the corner thought. To my knowledge new shields can't be purchased and if a used original is found, chances are it's beat up, badly rusted or one of the mounting brackets is missing. It doesn't appear that it would be a difficult item to reproduce though if someone with access to an original and willing to do it could draw up and post a pattern with dimensions.

Well here's an update. According to the information in this 2010 post from the AACA forum:

http://forums.aaca.org/f134/carburetor-heat-baffle-284463.html

Repro shields for SOME cars are available according to OD and Ozstatman...

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Fred,
Viewing the shield from the engine side, it should look like this:

http://www.borthautoparts.com/images/cars/packard/1951%20Packard%20200%20Deluxe%20Parts%20288%20Engine/1951-52%20Packard%20Fuel%20Pump%20Heat%20Shield.JPG

Vertical bracket bolts to front manifold stud and I believe the horizontal bracket goes under the rear fuel pump bolt but I'm not positive about that one.

Just wanted to post another source for used parts for anyone that's in the hunt.

http://www.borthautoparts.com/make/packard/

Michael has a good variety of used parts with photos for the early 50's to the '55 and '56 V-8 cars and usually has a couple or so '46 to '50 cars that he's parting out.