I have kind of the same dilemma. I have two antennas. One for parts, one to rebuild. I have yet to get the good one apart. The parts one I have gotten apart, but I would like to know how you separated the piston to get the seals off. Once I have the seals in my hand, I intend to go to some hydraulic seal houses with the the seals to see if they have something I can use, once I get the good one apart.

Would rather replace it. I'll have to see if the guy that has it will separate the manifolds. If not, I may be in touch Ross.

Thanks guys. Figured it would, but wanted to run this buy the people that know. Now one step further. In thinking about this, I was going to pull the manifold off over the winter and see about a re-repair. It was brazed. I was going to grind out the braze, get the manifold hot and weld it with a nickle based welding rod, and let it cool slowly. But there are also issues, I believe with the threads that hold the two together. I was going to put in Helicoils. I'll make an assumption, (and those can bite back)that the 2 barrel and 4 barrel will be a different base....Yes?

Would anyone be able to tell me if a exhaust manifold from a 1951 400, supposedly the 288 engine, would fit my '49 288 engine. A gentleman I know came up to me at a cruise night and said that he had an intake/ exhaust manifolds, from a 51 400 that had a 4 barrel carb on it. If I am reading the parts manual correctly (5.0900) it lists the same manifold for several 22nd cars, 2301 (my car) and all 24th and 25th series.
My exhaust is leaking where someone has already brazed.

Thanks for the help.

Had my car out today. It's 29C or about 80F. Short run through town...ok. Out on to the highway for some speed. 60 - 65... temp needle did not get completely past the 1/2 way dot. Pulled off the highway and took the two lane home. Needle moved back over top of the dot and stayed there. Figure 180F was likely my max temp. Oh what a happy day!
I'm runnin'

It's been a while since I've posted in this thread and thought an update was in order. I'm still battling the heat issue and have done a few things since last post. I have done as some suggested, an old school cleaning - kerosene and washing(not baking)soda in the cooling system, in appropriate measures. This has helped clean some crud out, as it's a gray/ brown color when I drain the system. I am still in the process of washing out residue by filling with straight water, driving the car and draining. Going to do that until it's as clear as I can get it when I drain. Then a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze will go in. I have also put in a 142 thermostat for kicks. Now on to what I believe is likely the root cause of my problem. I decided to go through the engine timing again after doing a tune-up when I got it. I knew something was likely afoot when I did it, but was happy to have it running better than it was when I got it, and wanted to get out and drive my new toy and show it off.(Silly kid) As it turned out, the engine was running on base timing and mechanical advance. I found that the vacuum advance pot was not working at all. I since have installed a new pot, and have only been able to have it out for a short run, on a day that was not very warm. But the temp gauge stayed around the 1/2 way mark. Hope to be able to get it out this week for at least an hours drive (one way) to a cruise night and see how things are. I believe that I was not getting enough advance in the timing, therefore the fuel was still burning as the pistons were well on their way to the bottom of the stroke. I will be back with the results of my adventure.

Sloride...thanks. So many people have been so generous with information that I didn't know about the car, and helped with issues that I have had, since I got it in the fall of 2012 and started hanging around here. I'm glad that I can return the favor for others with the stuff that I know.

If down the road, you want to have this one fixed, take all related parts to a reputable weld shop. From what I see in your picture, the penetration of the weld was not good on the piece that the shifter shaft went in to. Some machining to that part to weld it correctly may be in order to get it done properly.

Finally got to do the gear swap. Had an issue that needs to be passed on. The outer seal that is pictured in the last two pictures above will have to be modified after installation in the seal retainer. When setting the axle end play, it didn't matter what shims were used, it would be too tight. Took some fiddling, but found the seal was the culprit. I had to use a die grinder and a burr/ rotary file and remove the lip of the seal and make it so it was flush, or a tad below the face of the holder. If you look at the second last picture, showing the inside of the seal, you will notice that it protrudes out of the housing. This part of the seal was pushing on the bearing and messing up the end play tolerance.

Ross...I kind of wonderex. My bad. Thanks. Ernie...thanks for that tip. I'll be going through it more diligently.