I promised to get back and report on progress - yes the removal and stripping down resulted in the parts being welded/brazed and small amounts added to the worn parts which the were then fettled back to the correct sections and the whole re-assembled then put back on the car - some juggling with the adjuster resulted in everything being pretty tight so good throttle response was restored.

The above resulted in me finding that upon starting her up on full choke the engine running wasn't quite right so I found that the choke wire was not opening up the butterfly fully upon shoving the choke lever in - this was quickly resolved by undoing the wire on the choke end and moving it to open the butterfly fully so she wasn't choked at all for normal running, the result is now near perfect starting and running, just hope that putting the air cleaner back on doesn't upset things.

I'm now going to start a couple of new topics - disc brakes and servo assistance - hope you will all take a look and offer up your thoughts please.

Cheers from the UK

Michael

Managed to get some extra photos onto the website - Oh and I forgot to mention she does not have the standard Carter carb. but runs on a single barrel FoMoCo carb. from a Ford Pick-up of around 1968 vintage

Regards Michael

Attach file:

---

  (107.17 KB)

Thanks for the info. - most are of opinion this side of the pond that welding or brazing (depending on the metal) a "blob" onto the worn part then filing it back to shape is the easier option - this morning I have finally found the right size small spanners which after lots of easing oil application got the nuts on the turnbuckle to move so that as you say might ease things too. The single rod on the left of the photo goes to the gas pedal and that has nearly half the rod thickness worn away - could be caused by the first 20 years of service the car put in when on Rhodesian soil - lots of dust abrazing the metal away.

I will keep you informed as to any progress.

Regards Michael

Hi - back with more tales of woe !!

Pushing down the gas pedal on my R.H.D six cylinder operates a series of rod connections, perhaps unlike the L.H.D versions in the USA ?

Despite a low mileage of 63,000mls. every rod is worn at the ends and other parts are loose in the spindles, this makes for uneven running and certainly the car won't go to max. revs. via the gas pedal.

Anyone got any ideas for putting right the rod ends? - I thought maybe a blob of weld where they are worn then file it down to its original shape ?

My exhaust manifold has a main shaft and the piece that goes onto it is already sleeved - perhaps sleeving some of the other connections could be tried out - anyone any experience of these methods - or suggestions welcome.

The connections are off the bulkhead (firewall) and attached are some photos to perhaps help understand things.

Well I would but once more the website protector is saying that the photo is trying to attack the site - very laborious but I'll keep trying to submit the photos by changing their names. Well finally got that one on to the site - second one shows the unit removed from the car - don't forget R.H.D so looking at the photo - as it sits on the floor facing from the front the L.H. side is the steering and the single connection comes from the gas pedal.

Don't think the adjustable portion has ever been moved but that won't anyways cure all the slack (?)

Best regards Michael

Attach file:

---

  (244.30 KB)


  (65.93 KB)


  (152.95 KB)


  (152.95 KB)


  (120.01 KB)

Thanks JW in Austin Texas

I thought that replacement of the rear shocks would be the answer as on more recent cars (good old throw away Society)I live in Wetherby in Yorkshire in the UK so as a starter I'll take off one and try to obtain something here that matches - does anyone know what the specification is for them ?

The advice on the fronts has to be tried sometime in the future, the car is still in restoration but now quite a distance from my home though under my wing rather than the rogue "restorers" so working on her is very slow. The fronts do not seem to be leaking oil but maybe they are completely empty ? If they are leaking can that be cured with new seals ?

On another vein I attached, or rather tried to attach a photo of the rears as well and got a message that read "Protector detects attacking actions" - can anyone explain that ?

Best regards Michael

Looking back in my P.Ms I see that altering the title can allow posting of a photo - now done !!

Hi

I should possibly have thought about the shock absorbers before lots of other work which we have done - however the shiny paint and chrome and nice seats to sit in seduced me away from the more mundane (but essential) bits.

After having my first drive in her after 5 years of labour and putting up with alleged "Restorers" for that time I was very disappointed at the handling and the cars inability to deal with anything but the smoothest of highways - lots of rattles and bumps etc.

I can only think that a lot of this is due to possibly shock absorbers which could be anywhere between 33 and 66 years old and possibly never even been looked at never mind serviced in any way.

Any tips or help in any way to guide me to what I should do in the way of servicing them would be much appreciated

Best regards Michael

Photos of front shocks and photo of the rear telescopic units attached

Attach file:

---

  (113.15 KB)


  (130.70 KB)

Thanks to everyone - now read the "string" from last year from Thad Gegner - so we have to find a very stout hub puller and have a lot of patience - I have had TWO "restorers" over 5 years, both assured me the brakes were in order - now knowing all the hassle of getting the drums/hubs off we are SURE they NEVER did !!!

Best regards Michael

Hi
I am trying to remove the rear brake drums, but no amount of pulling pushing and belting it with a heavy lump hammer is moving them - is there something I am NOT doing ?

Best regards Michael

Just going through old files and found that Ozstatman in a long blog in Sept.2013 mentioned "body pads" which he was trying on his pre-war car to align the doors correctly - were these pads also available for the post war cars I.E mine which is a 1948 ?

Any help appreciated Michael

Hi All

Here are the two pages of the Manual I told you about - I'll now try to do the adjustments as suggested and will let you all know the outcome - I have no help at the moment and the car is remote from my home and in a restricted storage area so even when I get the time I have problems so may be some time before my next submission on the topic.

Thanks to you all for your input - any more comments etc. most welcome - can't get to my car but I CAN get to my computer.

Best regards Michael

Attach file:

---

  (168.69 KB)


  (147.57 KB)