I was able to squeeze under the car tonight and look at the short and long link bars and see where there are in relation to the pivot point. Bad news is they don't look like the attached diagram. It looks like the short extending knob of the pivot point has moved too far towards the front of the car; moreover, it looks like it has bent the short link/bar. I'll try and lift the back of the car on some jack stands and get a picture of it.

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I have confirmed that I have a dead battery. I was able to jump start it with my wife's car. I let it run for a few minutes and then turn on the under dash I/O switch to active the leveling system; the 30 amp fuse blew after a few clicks of the solenoid, and then the car stopped running. I did hear the electric motor run before the fuse blew and before the car stopped running. I guess the next step is a new battery.

Thank you very, very much all of your help. I really appreciate it!

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If the bars did switch, then what do I do to correct them?

The batter is less than two years old, but that's a great suggestion. Off to Les Schwabe I go. However, I wouldn't think the TL systems needs a fully charged battery to run the electric motor, but then that may explain why i'm only hearing the solenoid click and the TL motor not moving.

No blown fuse. This is a recent failure. I've had the car for 5 years. I did have to replace the solenoids two years ago because of the same situation, and I had no issue; just replaced the solenoids and and the car leveled out just fine.

The car does not have a push button transmission/drive selector; it has a column shift selector.

I got a replacement solenoid from Napa Auto Parts (the one suggested in the other post linked in this thread - NAPA #ST56). I installed it (see attached photo). I had to put the good solenoid on the bottom so the new one would fit. Now, when I turn on the under dash I/O switch the new solenoid clicks after seven seconds and the car's back end does not lift.

A side issue is that the car will not start. I thought the battery was drained, but i put a battery charger on, overnight, and the charger says the batter is fully charged. However, the car will not start; the engine does not turn over.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I also tried installing the new solenoid upside down (from that in the picture), but I got no power registering at the solenoid's small terminal; so, I assume I have the new solenoid installed correctly. The solenoid's terminal indicated with "Bat" is connected to the positive battery feed.

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This sounds like leaving my engine as-is (sans oil filter) may not be a bad option. If I do leave the engine without an oil filter, then how long should I go between oil changes? I've been changing the oil approximately every 1,500 miles. If I do decide to install an oil filter, then can I go longer between oil changes? If so, then what's recommended?

I also like the idea of analyzing the oil, between changes, to determine specific locations of engine wear.

At the risk of getting a bit off topic, what's the benefit for adding an oil filter?

When I bought my '56 Clipper, about 5 years ago, it did not have an oil filter. Attached is a picture of the engine compartment. I'm the second owner of the car, and I was told the car never had one because it was considered an "extra" when the car was originally purchased. Is there any truth to that?

Aside from that question, I'd like to install an oil filter. Can someone direct me to some "step-by-step" instructions for installing an oil filter canister, hoses, etc.? I would also appreciate help with locating an oil filter canister and filter to purchase.

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I need to replace the rubber weather stripping on my '56 Clipper Custom 4-door. Does anyone have suggests as where to purchase this item? I know I can likely get it from Kanter, but I'm looking for other options. Thank you in advance for your suggestions.