TxGoat wrote:
That doesn't look too bad in the pictures. Original grease, some surface rust, but pretty solid including areas under the running boards that are often badly rotted. I'd drive it. A member posted some pictures of a seriously rusted frame and under body a few weeks back. Look those pics up and compare. Your car looks well above average for a 1941 model that's never been cleaned up or painted over. The bolts on the inner fender may surprise you, or they may be hopelessly stuck, I'd apply penetrant and then try removing them the next day. A little heat may help. My '37 has a number of small bolts at the top of the panel, maybe 6, and 2 down lower. The panel is made to be easily removable to service the engine.

Your engine may have stuck valves or some rust in one or more cylinders. It takes VERY little rust to jam an engine.
Taking the valve covers off and spraying the stems may help.
I'd add some more oil to the cylinders and leave the plugs out, then rock it back and forth with the ratchet from one tight place back to the other. That will usually allow more and more movement until the engine can turn freely. Leaving the plugs out will relive any compression and will also keep the engine from hydro locking if too much oil is in one or more cylinders.

TxGoat wrote:
You don't need to take the fenders off to access the valves. Take off the right front wheel and remove the inner fender panel. It's fairly easy to get it off and back on, and removing it will give access to the valve covers, the fuel pump, and the manifold heat valve.

Caribbeandude wrote:
where are ypu located? I have a rebuilt engine and transmission for this car

BigKev wrote:
If it turns some them sticks, then it's probably got a stuck valve. You may be be able to take the side valve covers off and see which one(s) are stuck. And the possible work it free if it hasn't been bent.

TxGoat wrote:
Any pics of the frame?

Bob J wrote:
Please feel free to do anything you want with your car, it's yours!
I know that you are anxious to see if it runs, but really...why? There is no hurry right? I know it may not be winter where you are, but at any rate the days are getting short and it is a good time to putter away inside until the spring brings in the nicer weather. In the meantime do a nice careful disassembly of the main engine parts that will allow you to achieve a nice running unit once all things are in place. So what if you get it running now to simply hear it go knowing there is no way you would drive it like that. You are not needing this car Monday to go to work. Relax and enjoy a calm and directed approach to bringing an 80+ year old car back to life.
It WILL run, these old flatheads are pretty much guaranteed to do so unless you see a con-rod sticking out the side of the block!
Pull the carb, water pump, starter, generator, master/wheel cylinders and radiator off and send them all out for rebuild.
Pull the head off and remove the valves so you can thoroughly clean them and their seats along with the cylinder head's combustion chamber.
Order new spark plugs, points, condenser, oil filter, coil, plug wires, battery, cap and rotor so the ignition side is good.
Pull the gas tank and get it dunked. blow out the fuel lines while it and the pump are off.
Run new cables/wires to the starter from the battery. Run new wires for the ignition and starter, brake/tail lights, headlights/signal lights.
While all that is going on, redo the brake shoes and replace the brake lines. Check the drums for wear and resurface if necessary. Inspect wheel bearings/seals. Free up the emergency brake cables. Drain and replace the transmission and differential fluids.
Then when the rebuilt parts come in 6 months or so later you reassemble, put in new oil and water and dump some fuel in the carb and hear her fire up easily and take her safely for a spin.
Then you have a car, not just an engine that runs (poorly) with no confidence in the rest of the machine.
Have fun!
Bob J.