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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#31
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Ozstatman
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Quote:
Peter Packard wrote:......Hi Mal, You should buy my 38 Richards "hot Rod". .....

Peter, Selling the "Hot Rod"? Thought you'd never do that. What's the "Flackmaster" going to drive if he comes to Oz again?

Posted on: 2023/11/19 13:39
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#32
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1941Packard
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Here is a photo of inside the pass side fender. You can tell it's a bit rust and has some bondo on the bottom. I imagine I'll have to cut all the bolts off holding it on. I know I don't have to do that to get the valve cover off, but wanted to include some photos of the underside to better show the condition of the car.

You can also see the ratchet I put on the crank... I have not applied any pressure to it when it stops at either direction. I'll pull the head and see what's going on before I put any muscle into it. If any valves are bent etc, it won't be because of me lol

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Posted on: 2023/11/19 13:40
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#33
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TxGoat
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That doesn't look too bad in the pictures. Original grease, some surface rust, but pretty solid including areas under the running boards that are often badly rotted. I'd drive it. A member posted some pictures of a seriously rusted frame and under body a few weeks back. Look those pics up and compare. Your car looks well above average for a 1941 model that's never been cleaned up or painted over. The bolts on the inner fender may surprise you, or they may be hopelessly stuck, I'd apply penetrant and then try removing them the next day. A little heat may help. My '37 has a number of small bolts at the top of the panel, maybe 6, and 2 down lower. The panel is made to be easily removable to service the engine.

Your engine may have stuck valves or some rust in one or more cylinders. It takes VERY little rust to jam an engine.
Taking the valve covers off and spraying the stems may help.
I'd add some more oil to the cylinders and leave the plugs out, then rock it back and forth with the ratchet from one tight place back to the other. That will usually allow more and more movement until the engine can turn freely. Leaving the plugs out will relive any compression and will also keep the engine from hydro locking if too much oil is in one or more cylinders.

Posted on: 2023/11/19 16:19
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#34
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Bob J
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I am all for taking the fenders and inner fenders off, it allows better access as well as an opportunity to detail the inside of the fenders much easier.
You can remove the whole front clip as a sub-assembly if you have the room too, saves some wrenching around the grill shell area.
I was able to remove all my fasteners without any use of a 'hot wrench', all the better for you too if you can as you are dealing with a nicely painted car. Try and turn them first and see what happens. I know on my 37 the only cage nuts where the ones attaching the rear of the front fenders to the cowl. I did break the head off one of those but the cage nut was not actually welded to the cowl, it was held in with a tabbed frame that I was able to remove from the cowl and weld in a new nut.
The rest where all nut/bolt/washer assemblies that if broke would be easily replaced so no harm and no need for heating up with the torch.
I guess what I am saying is that the pre-war cars are much easier to take apart than the post war ones I have dealt with, the fasteners seem to come apart with far less failure and clean up easily with a thread chaser or tap/die for reassembly.
BTW, beautiful shop and shop floor, luxury!
The car's chassis looks like it is original but easily brought up to like new status with some elbow grease (remover!)
Bob J.

Posted on: 2023/11/19 16:28
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#35
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1941Packard
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Quote:

TxGoat wrote:
That doesn't look too bad in the pictures. Original grease, some surface rust, but pretty solid including areas under the running boards that are often badly rotted. I'd drive it. A member posted some pictures of a seriously rusted frame and under body a few weeks back. Look those pics up and compare. Your car looks well above average for a 1941 model that's never been cleaned up or painted over. The bolts on the inner fender may surprise you, or they may be hopelessly stuck, I'd apply penetrant and then try removing them the next day. A little heat may help. My '37 has a number of small bolts at the top of the panel, maybe 6, and 2 down lower. The panel is made to be easily removable to service the engine.

Your engine may have stuck valves or some rust in one or more cylinders. It takes VERY little rust to jam an engine.
Taking the valve covers off and spraying the stems may help.
I'd add some more oil to the cylinders and leave the plugs out, then rock it back and forth with the ratchet from one tight place back to the other. That will usually allow more and more movement until the engine can turn freely. Leaving the plugs out will relive any compression and will also keep the engine from hydro locking if too much oil is in one or more cylinders.


Yes, I had the plugs out when I was turning it.

The car definitely isn't super rusty, but I'd like to get it all cleaned up and properly painted/coated if possible...but I'd still like to get it running first (and maybe driving).

Posted on: 2023/11/19 17:57
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#36
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1941Packard
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Got the engine free! Was just stiff on one of the cylinders. Got a little looser as I cranked it back and forth. Could hear the rust come free and fluid shot out of the spark plug hole. One valve stuck when I was cranking it, but I was able to pop it back down. All seems to be working fine now. The intake has a couple hairline cracks. Fluid I poured down the spark plug holes was leaking badly from either the intake/exhaust manifold gasket.

Will still try to fire it in the next couple days! Assuming the starter even works lol.

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Posted on: 2023/11/19 21:43
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#37
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TxGoat
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That crack is in the exhaust heat jacket on the intake manifold. It (probably) won't leak air into the intake proper. The crack may be due to the engine having run a long time with the heat valve stuck, and leaking exhaust manifold gaskets can also contribute to cracking. I'd look around for a better intake/exhaust manifold assembly, but the engine will probably run OK with what you have.

When you get the engine running, it might be a good idea to retorque the cylinder head, using a good torque wrench and tightening in two stages in the correct pattern to the correct torque.

Posted on: 2023/11/19 22:01
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#38
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1941Packard
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Sounds like a plan!

Posted on: 2023/11/19 23:40
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#39
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1941Packard
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Starter works! Going to try to fire it off tomorrow.

Does anyone know of a common spark plug I can use in this thing? The ones I pulled off are Champion "UY6" Doesn't look like those are very common. I'd like to run the parts store and throw fresh plugs in it before I fire it...

Posted on: 2023/11/20 18:53
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Re: Just bought a 1941 Packard 120 - Considering a frame off resto
#40
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Owen_Dyneto
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AutoLite 3136, readily available at most any decent auto parts outlet.

Posted on: 2023/11/20 19:04
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