I'm attempting to install my steering connections. I've got my springs in and all my pretty parts. I don't have an engine installed, nor do I have any body on the car.

On a 1941, there are slots in the torque arms for the steering rods to go thru, but I don't seem to have even close to full range of travel (lock to lock) of the steering system as my the rods are rubbing the edges of the slots in the torque arms.

Is it due to the lack of weight on the car? I didn't install the top out bumpers on because I didn't want to mash them up because of the lack of weight. I do have a piece of plastic to protect the parts from metal to metal contact.

Thanks!
Rich
1941 110 Club Coupe

That's interesting for sure. Since you mentioned this vehicle, I also noticed the underside if the hood is body color instead of black. Too, the sides under the hood are also colored. I thought these were originally black.

Still, a nice looking car!

Rich

@Owen, that's indeed what I meant. But you do (obviously) have to unload the spring to get the shackle bolts out.

@Joe. A) Remove Rear Axle. B) get the shackle bolts loose. Having them loaded helps keep them from spinning. C) Jack up car as needed to remove shackle bolts. Once a leaf set is removed, put a c-clamp on the center of the leaf set and remove the bolt holding the springs together. Then remove c-clamp.


Rich

Just an fyi, that is also in the literature section of this site under "parts list" and "springs".

Rich

I only have a little to offer as I'm not yet done with mine. I don't have anything on the rubber for the brackets yet. But, the sliders/silencers in between the springs.... Eaton Detroit sells Delrin spacers. These would be nice but they did not fit my springs. The gents there were very good about taking them back.

Steele Rubber makes rubber ones, and I bought those. I do like the idea of delrin being that it would slide easy and last. I'm not done yet and may make something up with delrin.

Remember, I have a 110, and those Eaton ones my fit something else. If you measure your car I can tell you if it's the same as mine.

On removal: I took my springs out as assemblies. It's fairly straight forward, but a little bitchy. First, drop the rear end. Then, you'll have to play with your jacks a bit to get the load off of the spring mount you are working on. When they are off, there's a single bolt in the center holding all the springs together. There's some tension there, but not much.

As always, PB Blaster is your friend. Start squirting now.


Rich

You may have to cut the rubber. That's what I had to do.

Rich
1941 110 Club Coupe

Joe,

You can always buy a cheap Harbor Freight wrench and grind it thin. That's what I've done when needing a thin wrench in the past.

Rich

Here's how I got my seals out of my 110 today...




that's a piece of PVC pipe laying around in the garage.

Then you stick it in there with a socket similar in size to the seal.







give the pipe a tap and....




It was indeed spring side in.

Of course to do this you need to remove the third member.


Might help someone in the future.

Rich

I have my engine on a stand and cannot measure the cam plug hole on my 1941 six clylinder. What I do know is it's not the same as the freeze plugs....it's slight larger. I'm also wondering how much of a wall it can have due the cam bearing. Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks again,
Rich

I'll be there. I'm going to stay at the hotel and relax, I need a break from working on the car.

I'm looking forward to it!

See you there.
Rich