Kev,

I think you have the right idea here. Using the momentary contact switch ensures that you will only be using the electric pump for as long as your finger rests upon it. No worries about fuel pumping continually in case of an accident.

I agree that should also allow you to clear any vapor lock issues if/when they occur.

Mine is wired up as a straight electric pump right now, with the mechanical pump disconnected except for vacuum purposes. But as soon as the weather warms up (snow and 18 degrees in Indiana today!) that's the way I plan to finalize mine up.

Jay

I'd buy it. The last thing I got for that price was three crunchy tacos and a big diet Pepsi at Taco Bell.

Plus, I like the idea of having the resources on this site widely distributed. Computer hardware, ISP troubles and other factors can sometimes conspire to make things disappear at the most inopportune times.

Jay

I guess I'm just going to try this again. I don't have any idea in the world what I could be doing wrong.

I called up a transmission shop today and I'm going to take the car in and do a seal install with a pro. I've GOT to be doing something dumb.

OK, I'm not really into self-pity, but I really DO have a discouraging problem.

I've fought a leaking pinion seal for two years, and have replaced it three times. Every time I change it, it winds up leaking worse than the last time. I bought a used rear axle out of a junk yard in the fall, hoping for the best. Bad news. The transmission shop I took it to tells me today that it's going to cost me $900 (plus I have to furnish the seals) to fix it.

Sorry, but I'm not made of money! I've got a few hundred dollars saved up toward this, but there's no more blood in this turnip right now.

The current rear end whines (I can live with that if I need to), but the huge puddles of GL4 are a really big problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

The shaft may be a good candidate for a Speedi-Sleeve. For less than $30 you may have a good, permanent repair without paying for machine work.

I am probably going to be a newbie at this business the rest of my life, but I did gain a little experience with the R-11 overdrive over the summer.

I did up a little webpage that explains (in newbie-speak) how the R-11 works, and how I repaired mine. I got lots of help and advice along the way. Click Here to see what I'm talking about. I hope it will be helpful to you.

If I am not mistaken, the "9" in your "2255-9-2723" indicates that your car is a 1949 model, not a 1948. And that being the case, you will most likely find that you have an R-11.

I have a similar situation with my 2262-9, which has an R-11.

Jay

If my newbie-ness at this subject doesn't deserve a reply, then feel free to ignore this post.

I've been "preparing myself" to take a stab at some of this.

Say we have a pitted piece of chromed pot metal, like a door handle. What about de-chroming it first, then smoothing out the pits with solder. Smooth it out the best you can. Use a cheap plating kit to put the copper on, and then use the same technique to do the chrome over the copper?

That's the right order, right? I confess I've never done that, but I've been considering trying my hand at it. No, I don't think I would consider doing a bumper. More like something that would fit in the bottom of a five-gallon bucket.

I bought one of the little nickle plating kits from Caswell and it worked out pretty well.

Caswell also has a cobalt plating process that may work well. I would love to talk with anyone who's had experience with that. This could be a worthwhile and interesting winter learning project.

When I finally got my R-11 overdrive fixed up one of the things I did was take my solenoid apart and clean the contacts. I have some good info on how that works here if you'd like to check it out.

Pay attention to the link at "Kaiser Bill's" website.

The fins on the pumpkin are the problem. I'll tell you what I did just this morning to get my differential fill plug out.

Take a 1/2" combo wrench and use the open end on the square plug. But when you put it on, put it straight out toward the front of the car. Not like you'd normally use the wrench, but straight onto the top of the fill plug, just as if you were going to insert it into the fill hole. Then use a screwdriver in the closed-end part of the wrench to make a "T" out it. Just turn the "T" to turn the fill plug straight out.

I just replaced my pinion seal. You can see what I am doing in an "under construction" page -here-.