I'm still working on the ignition switch problem. I think I have a solution that will work, but we'll see.

I had some time yesterday with the car, though I was unable to get the things done that I wanted to. I ordered a fuel pump rebuild kit from Then and Now 2-3 weeks ago but it hasn't come yet. I was going to clean and mount the air cleaner, but realized I'm missing the bracket that holds it to the exhaust manifold. The car has been disassembled so many times that the bracket could be anywhere.

I also realized I am missing the adapter plate for the hard vacuum line on the intake manifold. I'm searching for both of these parts, so if you have them let me know.

I needed to clear some space where the body panels were being stored, so I put the hood back on the car. I also loaded up the fenders and drove them back to my house 2 hours away.

I'm looking for ways to get the car to my house so I can put it back together in my shop. I'm only at my parent's house once a month, and I'm spending most of my time there helping my mom with various projects since my dad has passed. If I can get the car to my place I can work on it in the evenings and get it back on the road quicker.

-Kevin

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I took a look at Deluxe Wheel just now. I'll be honest, I don't think it's going to look as good in person. It leaves the wheel looking very "shallow" to me.
Sidewalls can't flex as much. Plus you're looking at ~$900 just for the rims, and you still need to get tires. I would just get Diamondback tires made with the whitewall width you want. They will look better and handle great.

If it were me, I would get good whitewall tires before I replated the bumpers. If the bumpers are serviceable then use them as is for now, and replate later. People will notice the whitewalls long before they notice bumpers.

-Kevin

Kenken, I highly recommend starting a project blog for the car, where all your work can be organized into one thread. You'll find (as in this thread) that you will get a lot of help for every question that comes up.

I also highly recommend reading through BigKev's '54 build. I have saved dozens of links to various posts from his project, so that I can go back and reference them as I work through my own car. His thread has been invaluable to me.

Lastly, like Don said, a properly rebuilt or refurbished mechanical fuel pump will do great as long as the rest of the fuel system is in good shape. I have no electric fuel pump and have never needed one. My rebuilt mechanical pump has never let me down.

-Kevin

I think the only place making actual replacements is Classic Tube. Most people just end up bending their own. Fuel line is a little tougher than brake line because it is thicker, but with some practice it's not bad.

-Kevin

No progress on the Panama this week. Had to turn over my free time to fixing the Audi. Alternator is going out and trying to fix some other items while I'm in there. It's a nightmare.

Need to replace the alternator? Remove the front of the car. Need to replace the belt or any of the countless hoses? Remove the front of the car. Need to replace the A/C compressor? Weep and gnash teeth, then remove the front of the car.

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So I could just connect the coil wire directly to the accessory terminal on the ignition switch? That would be so much easier.

I'm pretty sure the car has been converted to 12V, and I believe they installed a fuse panel when the car was rebuilt. I'll have to double check next time I'm with the car. I'm not sure how the whole ignition and accessory circuits are wired, and I'm not sure I'll have much luck finding out. As stated before it is a nightmare of wires, hose ducts, and air handler below that dash.

-Kevin

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That's a great idea. And I think there is enough to tap. I'll have to go an pick one up and see if I can get it to work.

The solder I have does not stick to the copper/bronze, or whatever the original sleeve is made out of. I works fine with a new wire, but won't stick to the old switch.

-Kevin

Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. I'll see if I can get the rest of the wire out of the switch itself and figure out how to mechanically connect a new one + solder.

Does anyone know the correct wire size? 14 gauge? 12 gauge? I have a bunch of 12 stranded sitting around from doing the electrical on the shop.

BigKev, what your switch has is what I will likely do on mine, at least for now. I don't know that I'll be able to get the old wire out of the cable anytime soon.

-Kevin

Thanks for the tips Tim. I wouldn't mind using a different switch, but I'm not even sure where to look for them.

I was able to get the switch apart tonight. It was a real pain to bend/grind the cast metal away in order to get the rear plate off. Then I had to carefully remove the rest of it, which was mostly brittle plastic.

I attempted to pull the wire out of the inside of the armored cable. It moved about 2 inches, then tore. The rubber and cloth sheathing totally melted and is acting like glue. I don't know if I'll ever be able to get the wire out.

The wire is attached somehow to the switch, but I can't figure out if it was pressed or soldered. I've been trying to drill out the remainder of the wire, with limited success. Separating the rest of the switch may not be possible....there is a smashed pin in the middle, and if I remove that I don't think I will be able to get it to fold over again and retain all the pieces.

At this point, I'm wondering if I can solder a new wire to the contact, and run it sans armored cable to the coil. The armored cable is nice looking, but I'm not worried about theft and I'd rather have the car run at this point than be overly concerned with 100% accuracy. The car has A/C and a '39 block grafted to a '38 crankcase, so accuracy is kind of out the window.

-Kevin

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Brakes look great! Very few will ever see the inside, but there is satisfaction in having everything clean and restored.

I don't remember off the top of my head where I bought the pads for the rear, but I do remember the pins were far too long also. My originals were in better shape, so I was able to just reuse them.

-Kevin