The JR. Trunk rack will have very rounded corners and measure 38&1/2 wide by 16&3/4 high at either end and 18&1/2 high right in the center of the rack. Senior racks have almost square corners at the ends. There is almost no mistaking them apart, once you have seen both of them.

I could let you copy mine, as it is out of my car now and you are about 20 miles more or less from Malvern,Pa. Just let me know or call 610-647-4027

What is your distributor no. ? To determine the year of the distributor. The Autolite distributors have a screw in point with a lock nut on the ground side and the movable arm is like any standard point. 1938 1600(6 CYL.) only used Delco distributors,unlike 1937 115C (6 cyl.).

The original Delco distributor no. for a 1938 1600, is 1110203. The Delco point set no. is 1871678(Or Echlin no. cs 77). The condenser no. is 1869704(Or Echlin no.RR 134).
Napa, carries the Echlin line of electrical products.

The only mount you have is a large round head,top square shank threaded bolt that goes in the bottom of your radiator cradle slot,through a rubber/fabric washer that sits in a cupped washer. Then through the cars frame to be bolted down with a castellated nut and then cotter pinned. This is used on both 35-37and maybe later years 6 and 120's and can adjust your front end grille height. The arms coming off the radiator cradle support the right and left hand fenders. I hope this is what you were asking about.

Maybe 1938 6 & 120 can answer this.
Was the oil filter location actually used in production or was that to give an unobstructed view of the upper part of the engine. The clutch fork end was left out of the photo.

The exhaust manifold for 155C,1600,1700,1800 is the same part no.356729 which supersedes 315056-330777. I believe this shows that they must have made a better later one. The later manifolds eliminated each end stud. I would use all the later manifold hold downs as there is a difference, in how they hold it to the engine block.

Make sure you don't have a 120 transmission output flange as the 120c flange and U joint are larger than the 115c or 110 parts. The transmissions are basically the same except for the output flange and gear shift lever bends and speedometer gear to match the rear ratio.

Make sure that you have the bracket that clamps the exhaust pipe to the bottom of the bell housing. They use two of the clutch pan bolt holes on the exhaust side to make the exhaust pipe firm and rock with the engine. Also good rear motor mounts will help prevent the pipe shaking loose,at the manifold connection.

Your only thing that you will have to do, is make a adapter as the water pump outlet is larger than the lower radiator connection. I used a flex hose for a Rambler(American Motors),as it had both sizes and was the correct length. I hate flex hoses as they always seem to brake(but mine never did)in 10 or fifteen years. A better option is a rubber adapter ring, that most good radiator shops should be able to supply. Use your 1937 upper hose outlet(thermostat housing)for the size to math your radiator upper hose connection. You have to use the 1938 fan to fit the 1938 water pump(check the blade length with the 1937 as later ones were longer.
Every thing else is a bolt on.