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Board index » All Posts (Wat_Tyler)




Re: Various CL Pickings
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Wat_Tyler
Quote:

BDC wrote:
Check this 1929 Packard out, but only if you have a strong stomach
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224904153038?hash=item345d5507ce:g:dLcAAOSw30liPP5J



I looked at that poor thing and then the eBay Bot sent me an email to "make an offer on" it.


I should. How does $10 'Murrikan sound?

Posted on: 2022/4/15 12:02
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Great Packards at Auction, PLEASE READ
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Wat_Tyler
Looks like everything sold except for the forlorn little Pacific coupe.


Wat managed to contain his enthusiasm.

Posted on: 2022/4/15 10:44
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: 1948 Limo Super 8
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Wat_Tyler
Interesting read, and my sincere best wishes in getting your car sorted out.


I did some extensive reading on breaking in engines over the last couple of years. I bought a new Harley in 2020 and ordered the engine Stage IV upgrade which includes new barrels, pistons and rings. The upgrade kit was back ordered (kind of like everything else in 2020), so I took delivery of the bike, broke it in, took it back to the shop when the kit came in, and had to break it in again after the kit was installed. Joy - not!!! So I got some practice. On to what I did based on my research.


Apparently, the biggest trick in breaking in an engine is getting the rings to seat properly. Everything you read says to avoid one continuous speed, full throttle acceleration, and high RPMs. But this one article said that, for best seating, vary the pressure and direction on the rings systematically. This is different on a bike, of course, but it should equate to a low-rev flathead inline by accelerating from, say 1400 RPM or so to maybe no more than 2500 RPM and then decellerating in the same gear back to the 1400 and doing it again. The point is to vary pressure on the rings directionally to help them seat. I'm currently doing this with the '47 Deluxe I bought last winter, but I can't speak for the first 250 miles on it since the seller put those on it. I'm almost done the 500 miles and it should be ready for its oil change and the road after that.


Anyway, I used this method on the bike for its 500 mile break-in cycle before it went back to the shop for its dyno-tune. Using my method, the chief wrench got comparable horsepower and better torque readings with the big kit, and mine is a little one. Plus, the factory rating for the kit called for a redline of 6200 RPM and he only dyno'ed mine to 5000. I chuckled all the way home. I don't think I've ever had that bike much past half throttle - there's just no need. Oh, it doesn't use oil between changes, either.


Please file this in the For What It's Worth category.

Posted on: 2022/4/15 6:52
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Carburetor items
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Wat_Tyler
Thank you!!!

Posted on: 2022/4/14 14:05
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Anyone have 5 feet of 1/4-inch copper-nickel tubing?
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Wat_Tyler
https://brakesystems.autopartsu.com/2020/08/24/nickel-copper-pros-and-cons/

Quote:
You need new brake lines for your vehicle but choosing the best type can feel overwhelming thanks to the numerous options available. Not only do you have traditional steel brake lines, but also stainless steel, PVF-coated, and nickel-copper. Like any other material, nickel-copper brake lines have their pros and cons to consider, as highlighted below.

RESISTS RUST AND CORROSION
If you live in the rust belt of the U.S. or live close to the ocean, then you know how quickly unprotected steel can succumb to rust. Brake lines are especially vulnerable by virtue of their location underneath the vehicle and constant exposure to moisture, grime, snow, and road salt. It doesn’t take long for traditional steel brake lines to rust out and cause leaks that jeopardize the rest of the brake system, not to mention vehicle safety.

Zinc and PVF coatings offer moderate protection against rust, but total protection requires an entirely different material. While steel lacks inherent rust and corrosion resistance, brake lines made from nickel-copper alloy offer that protection in spades. Made from a mix of around 90-percent copper and 10-percent nickel for added strength, nickel-copper brake lines are practically impervious to rust and highly resistant against corrosion.

Nickel-copper brake lines aren’t just a sensible rust-free option, but also one that offers superior longevity under a variety of road conditions when compared with traditional steel brake lines.

EASY TO BEND AND FLARE
Bending and flaring brake lines takes work, especially if you’re new to fabricating your own. Ordinary steel brake lines can be a bit troublesome to properly bend and flare. Stainless steel lines are often the most difficult to work with thanks to the hardness of the material. Having a brake line that’s easy to manipulate with basic brake line tools can help you get through any project faster.

Nickel-copper alloy is much softer than traditional steel, making it easier to manipulate than other types of brake line material. But the relative softness of nickel-copper doesn’t make it weak. The nickel part of the nickel and copper composition gives it the strength to withstand the bending you’ll do as you run your new brake line in the right spots. This makes nickel-copper a dream for novices to work with.

COSTS MORE THAN STEEL BRAKE LINES
Good materials don’t come cheap, and nickel-copper brake lines are no exception. Depending on where you buy it, you can expect to pay significantly more for brake lines made from nickel-copper alloy when compared to non-coated and zinc-coated steel lines. Nickel-copper brake lines may only run slightly higher than lines made from stainless steel, in some cases. The upside, however, is that nickel-copper brake lines last longer than their steel counterparts, meaning you won’t have to replace them as often.

EASIER TO ACCIDENTALLY DAMAGE
Nickel-copper brake lines are remarkably easy to bend, but they’re also easier to damage during installation. You can easily put creases or dents where you don’t want them if you’re not careful, especially if you’re using brake pliers or similar tools to make tight bends. Sealing nickel-copper brake lines also requires less torque than traditional steel lines, making it easier to crush flares with tube nuts by accident. A gentle touch comes in handy when plumbing your new nickel-copper brake lines.

Posted on: 2022/4/13 13:46
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Wat's Clipper coupe
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Wat_Tyler
Honestly???


Wat effing hates side pipes!!!


Seriously . . . .

Posted on: 2022/4/13 11:37
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Wat's Clipper coupe
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Wat_Tyler
The guy with the WCFB 985 called me back. His are different - for Cadillacs. I could make a new starter switch under the dash, but if I'm going to do all that, I might as well use a modern carb.


But, to be fair, I called. Kanter has bupkis, and MM wanted $750 plus a $300 "core charge" (they're selling rebuilts), so we parted company right there. If one can find a new 1404 in stock, it's under $500 delivered.


I can think of worse things than an under the dash starter switch.


I may visit the exhaust shop on Friday to see what they can do for that mass of restriction under the little sedan.

Posted on: 2022/4/13 6:47
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Various CL Pickings
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Wat_Tyler
Quote:

kevinpackard wrote:
1947 4 Door Clipper. Parts car, been sitting in a field for years. It's located about 10 minutes from me and I've driven by to see it from the road. Rough shape, windows broken and open. Maybe some salvagable parts. Cheap: $500.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/706058960578850/

[snip]



Those LWB front fenders look kinda decent. Too bad that it's a few time zones from practical for Fred

Posted on: 2022/4/13 4:26
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Needed: front brake drums 1947 Clipper and one wheel
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Wat_Tyler
Quote:

signsup wrote:
Update...got two drums coming from Tucson. Waiting to connect with WA for the wheel offer. Went out and measured my wheelbase...yes, 120". Hope Ike doesn't notice.



Best laugh of the day!!!

Posted on: 2022/4/12 4:46
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Needed: front brake drums 1947 Clipper and one wheel
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Wat_Tyler
Quote:

JD in KC wrote:
Quote:

Wat_Tyler wrote:
...Bad news on the Clipper conversion: the '41 has a 127" WB and the '47 Deluxe is a 120"...


I'm about 95% certain that the Clipper in the photo is a 1942 model. But... even so, it's still probably on a 127" wheelbase.



That there Clipper in them thar photos appears to be a post war grille on a 120" platform.


Ike still won't notice.

Posted on: 2022/4/10 19:25
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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