There has not been anything major to post about the last few weeks. I have been working off and on in the shop. I had to make a command decision to go without sand-blasting the frame. My local sand blaster is blasting pools and other odd structures now so he isn't interested in doing my frame. Next closes blaster is 45 miles away and expensive.

I have decided to clean off all the loss stuff and grease myself and coat it with either Eastwood rust encapsulater or Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint (or both). I have been experimenting with different tools to clean it and have come up with a good selection. Started with my 4" grinder but that thing will rip your head off if it snags in the edge of anything. The frame is in excellent shape and does not have to be bare, shiny metal for either of those above products to do their job. You guys have any other recommendations?
I modified the gate hinges that TroyT recommend for holding the front TL arms in place. I welded a small bolt on the front of each one so that it will actually hook around the arm. I have one in place now, see photos below, but have not removed everything around it yet.

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It is a good feelings.
I am only 2 hours south of Max's myself. Went there once last summer to pick up a fuel tank. Will go again jsut for the fun of it at somepoint.

Interestingly, in 1970, after my fathers second tour of Vietnam he moved to recruiting. His first job was as a station commander in Franklin, Indiana. His recruiting station was only 3 or 4 blocks from where Max's is now.
We stayed in that area until 1979. I had not been back these in 30 years until I bought a Packard.

Sorry to hijack your blog TroyT.

Your right, the rear plate says "Daniel Schmitt & Co Classic Cars".
A quick google search says its in St Louis, Mo.

and another fixer upper

1941 PACKARD Touring sedan
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/4635011136.html

42 Packard someting...
Just needs a little TLC (NOT!)

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4649221691.html

Thank you Howard for your post #10030. That is exactly what I was looking for. Don't know how you keep track of all these post. My searches seldom give me what I want.

TroyT
I've only had time to glace at the link Howard provided for now but that is exactly what I was hoping to do with my oil system. Unfortunately I already have the short block assembled. Not sure I want to do any drilling at this point.

Since no one answered my question from last night I went and found the image that I was thinking of (below). I forgot it was an shot of KevinAZ showing off his Olds oil pump.

Anyway the hose I am talking about is clearly visible as Kevin is pointing to it. I do not have a port on my Olds Pump to attach a line.

Do I need to drill and tap this myself or could this be the wrong pump? It sure likes like the same pump as the image below.

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I got the compensator off so the frame is ready for sandblasting. Will work on that next week.

Now, I have a dumb question.
I was doing a test install tonight of the Olds oil pump and adapter I got from Jack Vines. The pump does not have a place to attached a hose. I've seen images on this site of the olds pump with a hose attached to the side of the pump housing and to the block.

Am I supposed to drill and tap this myself or do I not need one.

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It took a week for everything to come together but I got the short bars from the TL Compensator off. I used a combination of several techniques given here.

I removed the motor from the compensator so i could move the bars. I discovered that the drag link socket works great in the drill to turn the compensator. Found a adapter at HF that locked in to my drill and fits a 1/2 socket on the other end.

The 15/16 drag link socket was a hair to large for the caps on the bars. I cleaned those slots as best I could but had to grind off just a little on each side to get it to fit.

My 1/2" socket and the drag link socket together were so large that I could not move the bars outward to relieve the tension. My first attempt didn't go very well and both the caps barely moved. It was a horrible angle for holding the socket in place while trying to turn at the same time.

After discussing with a friend I cut a scrap piece of 2x4 into an L shape (shown below)and let it hold the wrench in place. I had to tighten the bars up a few times to make more room as the cap came out. Did the same thing on both sides and it worked pretty well.

I'll remove the whole compensator next time I get shop time.

Thanks for all the assistance.

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Hi Henry

I have referenced your blog a couple times today so I know what your Clipper was like when you were at this point.
The compensator has not worked after several attempts. I have not mentioned that in my blog. I may try one more thing this week to see if it will work but one of the solenoids looks like an old leaky battery. It has white powdery stuff on one end.

Thanks HH for the information