Hi Henry

I have referenced your blog a couple times today so I know what your Clipper was like when you were at this point.
The compensator has not worked after several attempts. I have not mentioned that in my blog. I may try one more thing this week to see if it will work but one of the solenoids looks like an old leaky battery. It has white powdery stuff on one end.

Thanks HH for the information

HH

Is this what you were talking about with the placement of the wood blocks?

I hope the frame does not need to much force from my tractor bucket on the rear end. With no weight on the front end it probably won't take much to raise it off the ground.

I guess I could use my truck to hold it down like others have done.

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Thanks HH,
I think I understand what you are saying will take a couple more pictures tonight with a wood block in place to confirm before I do anything.

TroyT, I was wondering about that besides I can get it sand (I think its coal slag) blasted locally by but the nearest soda blasting is in Louisville almost 50 miles away.
Also, I picked up a couple of those hinge bolts and other items that you posted at TSC this weekend. Will post how it goes when I get to the point.

I recall someone on here looking for a 56 Patrician.
This looks like a good deal at $4500.

http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/4641372386.html

I took Ross's advice and got the deep fryer cleaner from Sam's. It looks much better now after the second powers washing (first 3 images below).

I am getting the frame ready for sand or soda blasting. Planning to remove the TL compensator before that but not removing anything else unless anyone here has other advice.

Went back and browed through Henry's blog (way back to 11/2008) when he was removed the TL compensator. I ordered the http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FCP4DO/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item" rel="noopener external" title="">15/16 drag link tool, which was posted in post #174 of Henry's blog, to disconnect the ball joint from the links.

There is something else that caught my attention from Henry's blog. In post 173 & 174 he mentions that
"the manual is backwards on how to take the tension off the small torsion bars so you can take the torsion motor out of the frame there is no weight on the frame, so it is opposite. the shop manual was written for a car in the shop that has the body/engine etc...all on top of it. so instead of 1/2" towards the center of the car, it now becomes 1/2" off vertical towards the outside of the car".

Seeing that no one commented or corrected him on his finding back then I am going to take it as fact and act upon it.

Mine are currently ? toward the center (last 2 images below) so I need to move them the other way before disconnecting. I am wondering if the bucket on the front of my Kubota tractor would force the frame downwards enough to move them outwards. Am I thinking correctly folks?

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I got the same model. I added a DIY dust collector using my shop vac. The blaster isn't great but it will do the job.

Cleaning day for the frame.

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Let the ride decide: I have obviously missed some blogs (can't read them all) discussing the subject.

TroyT: I saw that item when you first posted yet, Like Henry, I've no idea what it is.

Ross: Just to make sure I understand you correctly. I can use one of the numerous known ways of securing the front end bars but I do not have to secure the rear bars at all? I will be able to remove the axel and everything attached to it with no issues due to the T/L.

Thank You Everyone.

I have spent the better part of the past year dreading the T/L. If I can do this without unloading I will be more then happy to do so.

I know I can work around the front torsion bars using chain to hold them in place. I have seen it done on this site multiple times but how do I hold the rear end bars in place safely for an extended period of time.

I have no actual plans to unload them at this time just seeing what I can do myself if I have to. The length of movement in the rear bar is a sticky point in my planning.

Now that the body is off the frame I find myself staring long and hard at the T/L suspension. Like all who have come before me I am trying to figure out the best way to handle it.

I got a question for those of you that may own the unwinding tool or have at least seen it used.

Look at the image below please (I stole it from Henry's blog).
I want to know the length of the all thread (A to B). My goal is to find the minimum and maximum length required to unwind the bars.
Thanks

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