Anyone seen one lately?

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Owen,

I had it for a while before I even realized there was a lower 1st gear.

Because you have to pull the gear shift lever to the left and down against a spring and I'm sure there were a few that never realized this extra gear.

I never use the low low, at a slow idle in low low I can almost walk around the car.

Couple this with the high low end torque of the engine and it's no wonder these cars were turned into service station wreckers.

One comment on the '32 transmission, it has a very unusual sound. I've met people at shows that drove these cars when they were new and they told me it was called a "singing transmission". The transmission produces a sound in 1st and second that is hard to describe. Almost a musical note, not a gear whine.

Regards,

Dave

Another drive....another time....

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Some additional info on early EP lubricants:

The primary additive that was added to the early gear oils to give them the EP (extreme pressure) rating was sulfur. Because of the tooth geometry of the new hypoid gears used in the differentials the existing gear oils would not provide protection against the higher pressure gear tooth load that was present in the hypoid differential.

At the time sulfur or sulfur based compounds were used to give the lubricant a EP rating. One problem with sulfur or sulfur based compounds is when moisture is added the compounds tend to form sulfuric acid.

The acid that could be formed using a sulfur based oil would attack the lighted metals, brass, bronze, and aluminum.

If you've taken apart an old transmission or differential that used sulfur based oils you'll notice two things, a very distinct smell and a thick dark gooey sludge that covers everything. This smell and sludge is the remnants of the sulfur in the oil.

As stated in previous posts a modern GL-5 or GL-5 gear oil that meets MIL-L-2105 contains corrosion and EP additives that makes them suitable for hypoid and spiral bevel gears.

I've had good luck with a multigrade 85W-140W in a '32, 4 spd. syncro transmission, spiral bevel differential, and worm and sector steering box.

One trick that will help, machine the transmission and differential plug to accept a neodymium magnet that is nickle plated. The strong magnet will capture any fine particles that wear from the gears over time.

The same trick works equally well on crankcase plugs. If you use a neodymium magnet just make sure it's nickle plated to prevent corrosion.

A groove machined into the bore of either of the plugs will accept a snap ring to keep the magnet in place.

Regards,

Dave

A few side notes:

Normally cruising @60 mph would not be recommended in a 70+ year old car with babbitt main & rods, a 4.69 ratio differential, a 110 hp engine, and a body / frame combination that pushes 4500+ lbs. The original standard 4.69 ratio winds the engine close to 2900 rpm @60 mph.

A few modifications have been done to allow cruising at higher speeds. I replaced the original 4.69 ring & pinion with a 4.07 which drops the engine rpm from approx. 2900 to 2500, which is about 50 mph if the stock ratio was still installed.

The engine has been balanced to 0.1 grams to reduce as much as possible additional loading on the bearings due to reciprocating parts not being balanced.

I added needle bearing into all the rocker rollers, replacing the original brass sleeve bearings. Because the cam is geared at 1/2 the crankshaft speed any reduction in hp required to turn the cam is doubled at the crankshaft.

The mains and rods have been re-poured with nickle babbitt. Nickel Babbitt Alloy is the result of over sixty years constant effort to produce the best bearing alloy, regardless of cost. Today it stands supreme in the field of high-grade bearing metals. It is made only of carefully selected virgin materials and each element is subjected to scientific treatment during the alloying process.

Nickel Babbitt lasts longer under severe service, because,

* It holds the oil film
* It pours freely and fills all liner crevices
* It's anti-frictional
* It cannot cut the shaft
* It resists high temperatures
* It has high thermal conductivity

Regards,

Dave

Big Ed,

I've attached some detailed information on the Perrot brake system that should help.

On patent 1613768 look at item #14, you will see a small clip that retains the spring and dust cover. Remove this clip and you can disassemble the system further.

Regards,

Dave

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Just a couple shots out the front window...

Enjoy....

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The type of fan belt shown is called a Brammer link belt.

One of the benefits of this belt is that it can be installed without taking apart or moving the pulleys.

There is a company in the UK that offers these new.

Some background on the Brammer type link belt, off the Brammer WEB site:

Made from a series of individual links, link belts offer a unique alternative to traditional V-belts and wedge belts. The belts are a simple concept but deliver outstanding results solving many problems that can occur with V-belts & wedge belts.

Highly resistant to water steam, oil and most industrial chemicals. They are also highly resistant to abrasive substances such as grit, sand, gravel and other building materials. They operate at extreme temperatures (-40 to 100oC) with minimum effect on performance. Easily made to fit any length.
? Long lasting belt - up to 20 times longer in some applications
? Fit in minutes, not hours - belts can be joined around the pulleys without dismantling the drive
? Minimal maintenance - fit and forget
? Reduced vibration/ noise - link design can reduce transmitted vibration and belt noise by up to 50%

Big Ed,

There are two slightly different designs for the Perrot shaft assembly. One design has a dust cover on the top of the front backing plate and a exposed ball stud and socket that is connected to the frame.

The second design has the same dust cover on the front backing plate but instead of a ball stud on the frame there is a shaft and bushing covered by a dust cover, that mounts to the frame.

The first design was used on later series cars, the second on earlier series.

Both designs use dust covers that are spring loaded. A dust cover is comprised of two covers, a outer and inner. The inner is fixed to the front backing plate and the outer is free to slide forwards and backwards across the inner, as the front wheel turns.

For the earlier design the inner is fixed to the frame and the outer slides up and down as the frame moves up and down on the springs.

Regards,

Dave

Big Ed,

First answer - the Perrot shaft assembly sits approx. level when the car is at a "normal" ride height. I checked a eighth and ninth series and they were about the same.

Because you have the body off I would hold off on all brake adjustments until you have the body back on.

Second question - 1/4" out at the end where the brake cable attaches is not that bad, especially when you consider the distance you're from the center of the shaft, where the play is in the joint. You have three areas where the play adds up, long shaft to pin, pin to short shaft, and short shaft to the cam that operates the primary and auxiliary shoe.

The dust cover (closest to the front backing plate) over the Perrot universal joint has a "C" clip type collar that fits into a groove in the shaft. Pull the spring back from this collar and you should be able to remove the "C" type clip. When you do this you will release the spring that holds the dust cover against the mating other half of the ball.

I've dealt primarily with eighth and ninth series cars so all the info I've given is based on those models. I believe the Perrot type system was used on Packard's from '25 on, your seventh series may have some differences.

Good luck,

Dave