I've worked off and on the car since the last post. We've been busy with our RV and several marriages (son & grandson). A RV trip took up 3 months as we traveled the mid-west.

I did manage to get the all glass installed except for the windshield. The T-groove channel in frame for the windshield was two narrow for the weather stripping to fit into. I think this was due to the plating process. I trimmed the weather stripping (Steele Rubber) and cemented it in with a black urethane material and will install it in the next several weeks. If the urethane doesn't do the job, I'll need to grind the channel opening some, send it out for re-plating, and install a new piece of rubber.

The Bijur system was cleaned up and checked out. I had to replace about a dozen metering units, which were bought from Bruce Blevins along with some other parts. There were several leaks that were also repaired

The brake pedal that presented a problem (See January post) was installed. The brakes were checked out and adjusted. I had problems with the front wheels locking up when they were turned hard left or right. I followed the instructions in the "Service Bulletin Bendix Brakes Packard" found on this site and the procedure A11 found in the 1929-1932 Service manual.. The procedures were tried several times, but the front tires would lock up when turned either full right or full left.

Finally A11 was repeated and then the brake adjusting nut was backed off on both fronts the same amount of turns until there was no binding when turned hard in either direction. The tires were 1) turned straight ahead, 2) pedal pressure applied until one of the wheel had a lot of drag, and 3) the adjusting nut on the tightest wheel was backed off a little at a time until the drag for both front wheels became the same. At this point there was no lockup when the wheels were turned either hard right or left. The rear tires were then adjusted so the rear left and right were equalized. There seems to be plenty of brake pedal so I'll see how it works out after I get it on the road.

I have the U Joints apart, cleaned and exterior painted and I'm ready to put them together. The cork seals while still whole are very hard (as one would expect.

Should I cut new ones out of cork or has anyone out there tried using o-rings (3/4" ID X 1" OD) as a replacement?

Thanks
Marston

May I ask what are you trying to see in a higher quality image?

Also, if no one has a copy, you could call the Nethercutt Museum and ask to speak to the person in their Automobile Library.

Marston,
Blog on Our 901 'Big Sister'
Registry Entries: 'Big Sister' and 'Little Sister'

Dave,

Thanks for the info & insight. Love the oiler.

Marston

I've disassembled the drive shaft universal joints with the goal of cleaning them up and to replace the lubricant. According to the service manual they should have had oil, but what I found is more like grease.

Should they be lubricated with oil (if so what weight) or grease (if so would a moly bearing grease be OK)? What are the recommendations, if any, for sealing the two housings or should I use shellac as mentioned in the manual?

Any other suggestion about servicing are more than welcomed.

Dave,

Thanks for getting back to me and the picture. Mine is similar. I'm certain that I know where the spring connects, but the one I have is about .5 to 1.0 inches too long to work properly.

I had been through the Parts and Service manuals before posting, but to no avail.

What I'm experiencing is one of the challenges in putting a car together that you buy when a lot of it is in boxes. And to add to the fun the parts are unlabeled and pieces that should be kept together are scatter in different boxes.

Oh well as the wife says, it keeps me out of trouble and "gives me something to do".

I'm still struggling with the brakes. I'm not sure about the spring that goes on the brake pedal as the one I thought was correct does not appear to be so.

Could someone out there take a few pictures of a '32' brake pedal & spring that show length and where it connects to the pedal & frame?

To All,

I hope that everyone out there has a Great Thanksgiving Day. For those who do not partake in the event I hope you have a Great Day too.

I want to thank everyone who has assisted me over the years by responding to my questions and calls for help

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Dave & Ross,

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I was certain they should be dry, but figured I'd double check with the "Pro's".

Thanks again

I've taken over a restoration from the previous owner of the car. I'm checking the work he did when he rebuilt the brakes. The shoes are relined, new seals and bearings. When he installed the rear drums, he put grease on the tapered axle shaft. Should the drum and taper be left dry?