After tackling the engine and frame restoration this winter, interior, starting with carpeting then door panels, kick panels and then the seats

Research thus far indicates the only interior color for the 39 Juniors was tan, in either a tan pinstripe wool broadcloth or a tan Bedford cord fabric. I have requested samples from Kanter and SMS. Car color is Packard Ivory

Carpeting, unable to find any information on colors and type.

Anyone have info on this or where I can find it?

Here are some pics I got from Max Merritt. They don't have them in stock anymore

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Yes, replacement u-joints have zerk fittings.

I do have the luxury of a lift, the QuickJack. I use them only on occasion as I do not care for the forward (or reverse) movement of the car as the lift picks up the car. This is inherent in the design and unless you really pay attention and be certain car is out of gear, can cause problems! Other issue I contend with using this with my Packard, the Packard frame rails are surprising close together. By the time you get the lifts under the rails, not a heck of a lot of room between them to do any work.

Pretty well done with "have to do's" on the car, now just making her look better. New carpet once I find some, ideally a seat upholstery kit (no luck yet) and exterior, adding proper Fog light brackets and hopefully, a really nice set of OEM lights. Turns out mine are aftermarket and although in great shape and even have the Packard script stamped, no where near the appearance of the original Packard ones

I ended up cutting the straps off of 1 side as the straps interfered with a large nut on the end of the rear end saddle and on the transmission end

The straps are quite thin,only tack welded and snipped very easily. Studying the mounting of the ujoint in their respective saddles, I do not see a purpose for the straps except to possibly keep end caps in place during handling

Thanks Larry

I have these parts, obviously not installed properly if they are to prevent this noise. I do not, however, see how a rubber piece this soft can prevent that noise

Seems to me, pedal shank does not need to be removed, but pedals themselves do, via removal of a 5/16" nut and bolt located just behind the pedal. Then, if these parts fit forward of the firewall, the access plate around the pedals could be removed

Mine is a 39

If these are supposed to subdue this noise, the "bellows" portion faces forward, under the floorboard?

Simply taking my foot off the brake, not easing my foot off, such as leaving a traffic light, results in the thump. Same thump can be duplicated with clutch pedal, although I never "dump" the clutch

After 3 months of work, my Packard is back on the road after a total engine rebuild.

Engine is significantly more powerful and smooth, not to mention quiet! I actually use the rare factory glovebox door mounted tachometer when I come to a light as the engine is so smooth and quiet, I think it died!

And a big side benny, I can and will have the hood open at the next car shows to show off the majestic engine bay, something my late Dad always wanted to do with this car.

Now that all is so quiet, a noise I had prior to the rebuild, is a resounding THUMP from the brake or clutch pedal if you let them pop up by themselves. I do not see any "shock absorber" material or bumper that could stop that. Only thing close is what I refer to as the pedal shaft bellow seals, of which the durometer is so soft I do not see them doing anything except keeping the outside out

Suggestions ?

My39 Six issues started when I diagnosed it as a bad wrist pin on cylinder #3. I was close, bad wrist pin bearing (almost worn thru) and as I progressed to look at bearings, found # 5 top ring shattered in 7 pieces and #6 in 3 pieces. Long story short, had engine completely rebuilt, crank reground, cam reground, cylinders rebored everything else is new, pistons, rings, guides and valves from Egge, not sure where rebuilder bought chain and bushings but certain it is top notch as builder is very reputable in this area. When I fired her up a couple of weeks ago, couldn't be happier with sound and knowing that in my lifetime the engine will last and be passed onto my kids.

My advice, do it once and rest knowing that the engine will last your lifetime

Looking for suggestions

I have the engine installed and running, radiator in, cowl and grille installed and fender braces bolted (but loose) to radiator shell. With "blind" and very difficult access to the heads of the bolts, figured now is the only time to get them on.

Can't figure out the logistics of getting the fender and inner fender onto the car. I know putting the inner fender on with outer fender on is a real bear from experience in doing valve adjustments a couple years ago, so am trying to do it as one piece, Is this the correct way? Can the fender braces remain on the radiator shroud or do they go on after the fender is on?
Any secrets or suggestions? In reading the manual, now, on engine removal, they remove the entire front clip as one assembly

Final stages of assembly, definitely light at the end of the tunnel and the car will soon be road worthy again, getting quite excited and pleased with progress

Since the car has been out of commission since September, been getting really antsy to get her running again. Up until the engine issue in September, this car was driven whenever the sun was out.Was my Dad's car and he said the car was made to be driven and was my personal goal was to get it back on the road again before Christmas.

I really appreciate all the input on the radiator hose issue. Went down to Rossi's today, a local drivetrain specialist shop, for some fuel and vacuum lines. While their, got talking to the owner about the radiator hose problem and said he had spring material that might work. The material he had is actually used to protect the exterior of hoses from chaffing and he had several sizes, one of which was perfect.
After wrestling with this material and the right angle bend hose, using copious amounts of dishwash soap, managed to get the spring in the hose and installed on the car.

Refilled the radiator and car popped right over and no issue with the hose. Even took the car for a ride, albeit very short as I did not have front fenders or front bumper on yet, but it ran great and I kind of hit my goal of getting the car back on the road before Christmas.

Motor is running the smoothest it ever has and sounds great. I will have the fenders, new hood welting, hood and bumpers on this week so I can take it for a shakedown cruise

Thanks again to all the people who offered suggestions.

One final comment, Dad always tried t keep the engine compartment clean so he could open the hood at shows. During the rebuild, I completely detailed the engine compartment and chassis from mid car forward, see photo. Final photos later this week.

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