Chinese red. Ace Hardware. Was match for such bolts on my '40 One-Twenty years ago.

That's right. Wash the ceramic filter in acetone. You can also get modern pleated paper filter.

For those missing such a filter or having a warped one, Jeff Adkins, Moose Motors, Penngrove (Petaluma, CA in the North Bay) had or has NOS, as he does most mechanical items and all drum brake parts for everything domestic from Auburn through Zephyr into the '60s. (707) 792-9985, packardguy54@sbcglobal.net

Tell him Mike, '47 Super Clipper, Walnut Creek referred you. Jeff also rebuilds most components, including pressure plates with the Packard jigs.

"Chinese red" available from Ace Hardware a match for the original paint, as it was for the recessed hexagon on the hubcaps of the '40 One-Twenty i had long ago.

Hear, hear!

The above give you sound advice, Mr. Retired. But about this "coup." Are you under indictment, out on bail, otherwise in a position to enjoy this old two-door automobile?

Meanwhile, your question has been exhaustively answered hundreds of times over the years on this wonderful site. Refer you to the EZ-2-use Search tab on the upper right of the homepage.

Thank you, Ozman. Sometimes the software of this wonderful site sluggish and there are only so many minutes in the day.

Meanwhile, it would be nice if we could desist with these redundant details like discussed to the nines tires, and focus on the "compleat car."

The 1948-50 tubs, as Consumer Reports, Uncle Tom McCahill and others pointed out, were dangerously under-tired even with jumbo 8.20/15 balloons. But if you can use 7.00/15, the size on 1941-47 Century/Roadmaster, Cadillac Series 62/60S, Chrysler Saratoga/New Yorker, Hudson Commodore Eight, initial and 1942-47 127"wb Packard Clipper, the below is what Diamond Back charges a hefty price for after vulcanizing a not wide enough "wide" white.

Historically incorrect 1946-47 CCCA, AACA, PAC "100-point" cars so shod because we all know that, as with gloss instead of semi-gloss engine accessories, glitz and frail male ego trump historic accuracy.

For what combat vet fathers of the modern war novel Norman Mailer, Gore Vidal, Kurt Vonnegut dismissed as "flag patriots," be assured Yokohama is a Canadian company, even as the identical spec Bridgestones on my '47 Super are Japanese. Michelin also made this exact sort through the early aughts.

BTW, Packard did not produce tires, batteries, generators, motor oil, grease, brake fluid, so might be good to focus on the rest of the car, not reinvent the wheel, front disc conversions, increased carburetion simply as the patience required to get these fine-threaded automobiles right is lacking in so many erstwhile buffs today.

Note some of the sizes below correct for those with earlier Packards:

RY01 Available SizesPattern No. RY01
inch Size Ply Li/Ss Tube Type Rim Width
16 6.50R16 10 109/107M T / T 4.5 ~ 5.5
6.50R16 12 111/109M T / T 4.5 ~ 5.5
7.00R16 10 113/111M T / T 5.5
7.00R16 12 116/114M T / T 5.5
7.50R16 10 119/117M T / T 5.5 ~ 6.0
7.50R16 12 121/120M T / T 5.5 ~ 6.0
15 7.00R15 10 111/109M T / T 5.5
7.00R15 12 114/112M T / T 5.5
7.50R15 12 12PR T / T 6.0

Approved rim width from JATMA yearbook 2009. T/ T =Tube Type
*The RY01 is not available in Latin America, the Middle East and Africa.

Meanwhile, let's support Yokohama's 7.00/15 bias-sized radials, because if they bow out as did Michelin and Bridgestone, those of us with the above mentioned 1941-47 road cars are relegated to hobby bias plies people in the third world wouldn't accept. And the metric 215/225/235-15 stupid useless vehicle tires many use do not look right.

I like Gone1951's step stud solution. Meanwhile, for those considering Hela-Coil, try Time-Sert instead.

Greg, all the others above give you the most apt advice. I would only caution that you never use starting fluid. Sure, it works, but you can so damage your engine. F a r safer is to use a bit of carburetor cleaner instead of ether.

Had a little old lady's 48,414-mile not Pasadena but nearby Hawthorne '51 200 long ago in my 20s so i could spare my rebuilt '40 One-Twenty for special occasion by driving something my age labeled Packard.
Tho' not a postwar Packard fan, no '50s domestic automobile had better ergonomics. Had it stick/OD instead of Ultramatic, albeit the latter perfectly rebuilt with the smaller 9-inch direct drive clutch by a former Packard service wrench/transmission specialist, i'da kept it longer.

Mechanix Illustrated's Tom McCahill preferred the Ultramatic '51 "baby" 200 as he and they called it over the 400 Patrician.

Thanks. Live and learn. But they're still a silly affectation on most cars, esp. by the '50s. Less is more, certainly if the car has clean lines, the right color, a certain presence and g o e s, or at least looks ready to.

Why are you adding them, is the better question? In the '30s,'40s, certainly '50s, you r a r e l y saw fog or driving lights on any cars, expensive ones included.

Hobbyists today think they need every factory and dealer option available, overlooking that most of the latter were simply a way of increasing the dealer's profit margin.

My '47 Super has driving lights (clear, fog are amber bulbs only difference) because dealers took advantage of a car-starved public by loading inventory with options.

Keep it simple. Cars look best with fewer distractions, gew gaws.

Make sure your grounds good. They make LED headlights for our 6-volt cars now. Also, consider a bolt-in (no butchering whatsoever) 6-volt, positive ground, 55-amp alternator if you want brighter head and tail lights, especially when idling at a light or at slow speed.

Jim's Battery Manufacturing, Youngstown, OH (707) 426-7580 has such 6-volt alternators. In the win-win-win, you're saving weight, as with using an 800-cold-cranking-amp Optima Red Top 6-volt battery. Something few old domestic car guys grasp: "Weight is the enemy" in any serious sport, GT, road car. A little here, a littler there, it adds up.

Tell Jim that Mike, '47 Super Clipper, Walnut Creek, CA, and the late Hans Edwards, '47 Custom Super, British Columbia, referred you.