After I got the body moved over and adjusted it to fit the doors, the clutch pedal aligned with the opening in the toe board perfectly.

I studied the brake pedal in greater detail, it appeared that it had been straighten somewhat. Therefore, I'm having the chrome removed from it and I'll try heating it bending it in order to see if I can get it to fit.

Just a quick note on the above post. The 3' piece of brass flat bar should have been 3" (A.K.A. 3 inches). It should have also been mentioned that it was 1" wide and 3/8" thick. It should be back from the plater's next week.

When I studied the brake pedal in greater detail, it appeared that it had been straighten somewhat. Therefore, I'm having the chrome removed from it and I'll try heating it bending it in order try see if I can get it to fit.

After reading what has been done to the block & radiator they seem an unlikely source for the "mud". Could the head have been the source of the rusty debris that has probably worked it's way throughout the entire cooling system?

At this point, I think I would remove the radiator and back flush it. Then do a flow test. There was a recent posting on this subject within the last two months or so. I would then try to hook up a water hose to the engine and back flush it with water before installing the radiator.

I'm not sure if an oxalic acid treatment (followed with a sodium bicarbonate neutralization step) would be in order or not, which should take care of a minor rust problem.

Mal & DavidM

Thanks for your inputs. What I think I'm going to do is get the body in a better position for the clutch to work while looking at the position of the steering column where it goes through the fire wall. At that point I should be able to make some measurements to see if it is possible to run down the correct pedal. The last resort would be to strip off the plating and either bend or cut out a section and weld in a jog that makes it work.

It's been several months since I have posted an update. I painted the new boards black and mounted the door latches and window regulators on them. They were installed on the car to make sure they fit and to keep them out of my hair.

I've posted several things on the Pre-war (1946-54) side of this site getting information from those who know a lot more than I. One was on wiring and I completed the installation for the harness that takes care of the steering wheel column switch. As part of the electrical the head lights were installed and wired. I was missing bulb sockets for the headlights. Therefore, I bought some for a 30's era Ford and alter them to fit.

When I got ready to install the wiring that goes to the starter switch I discovered that the brake pedal doesn't seem to be correctly (see post for the nitty-gritty).

Glass for the car has been ordered and should be delivered in the next several weeks. My current challenge with the windows is find correct glass run channels. I have some of the original ones, but don't think that I have all of them. They are beaded with and felt lined. It appears that they were not nickel or chrome plated, but painted.

As many of you know, the lever for the cowl vent was made of cast aluminum. Mine was cracked all over and the area where it bolts to the cowl was broken. I decided that it should be easy enough to make one out of brass. So I got a piece of 9/16' rod 2 feet long, some 3/8"X 1.0 " brass flat bar, and a 7/8" mild steel ball.

I tapered the rod so it looked like the bad one. Then heated and bent it to match the original lever. I drilled and tapped the rod and ball so I could screw them together (just to hold them in position). Then I silver solder the two together. A ~3' piece of the flat bar was drilled, tapped and screwed to the rod (again to hold it in place) before it was silver soldered. Cost of the project was about $15 and took 3 to 4 hours to make.

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Tim, Dave (32model901) & DaveM I want to thank for your inputs. Neither pedal shows signs of being bent or alter.

The main portion of my brake pedal comes off of the hub at a 90 degree angle (see photo) with a slight jog at the top end. If I understand what Dave is saying, his car's brake pedal bends slightly to the right. I've made a sketch of what I think Dave mentioned.

This would meant that I should heat and bend my car's pedal to the right.

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David,

They both have a small offset the clutch about 3/4" to the left and the brake about 3/4" to the right. The clutch looks like it would go through the hole but the brake needs an offset of another 2 inches or so. Everything on the brake pedal seems to align with the other brake connections.

I'm going to need to move the body to the left about 3/8 inches to actually tell about the clutch, which I plan on doing later in the week.

How much offset do your two pedals have?

Thanks for your input.

As mentioned in earlier posts when I got the car it had been disassembled and was going through restoration by the owner, which leads me to try and figure out how it goes back together not to mention the task of trying to figure out which box(es) the parts might be in as his organizational process was vastly different than what I would have liked it to been.

Anyway, I got ready to finish installing the brake & clutch pedals and the inclined toe floor board. The spacing between the pedals center to center is 2 ?" while the openings in the floor board is 4 3/8" so the pedals won't fit through the openings. It appears that the clutch pedal aligns OK with its opening, but the brake pedal is about 1 1/2" to far to the left. I've looked for part numbers on all three pieces to confirm that they are correct but don't find any. Can someone out there tell me what's going on and what I'm missing?

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Dave - Thanks for the writeup on the Fuse Block. This explains Packard's logic on wiring the car. My '32 only has a single fuse.

Tim - Thanks for the suggestion about putting an in-line fuse in the circuit. All of the ash trays in my cars have candy in them. So giving up smoking is not going to be missed by me or the wife .

ADDED LATER: After looking at the Fuse Block and it's holder I understand how. why and where the wires connect and how it does work out. Sometimes I need to sleep on it before the light goes on.

Thanks to all who helped on this phase.

Dave,

Thanks for the info and the Napa P/N. Do you know what the purpose of the nichrome wire serves - is it like a fusible link?