XERF Radio in Cuidad Acuna, Coahuila, Mexico used to blast a claimed 1,000,000 watts at "1570 KC on everybody's radio dial". They pretty much were on everybodys' radio dial, too.

As for the blame game, powerlines, cell phones, assorted food colorants, aluminum cookware, meat, and much more have been targeted by "Experts" asserting mortal danger. Somehow, I've survived all that and the asbestos, too. Psst! Don't go near the baby powder!!!!

Variable speed drives on large 3 phase A/C motors generate a lot of RF interference and can send it for miles down power lines.

If automotive motor controllers generate that kind of intense RF, I expect that studies will soon show that the RF exposure is a human cancer risk,and massive lawsuits to erupt.

I think they're just cheap. AM has programming available nowhere else. News, diverse local and syndicated commentary, local ads and local news, local emergency communications, local weather/emergency programming, and more.

FM is an information desert, and largely an entertainment desert.

Many areas are still fringe FM reception areas where FM programming is limited and signal strength is often too weak to be useful.

Satellite radio is expensive, and mostly free of any informational programming, local/area news. etc.

I have a late model Jeep ragtop that is just lousey with modern electronics. The AM portion of the radio seems to be a poor quality afterthought, but it is free of any significant interference from the vehicle's systems, even on distant stations.

Does the radiator get hot? It should get too hot to touch across the entire upper portion of the core, and a lot of heat should be evident in the fan's air blast coming through the radiator when the engine is warmed up. If the vehicle has a heater, does it blow hot air? If no heater, or the if the heater is inoperative, you do not want a hose connecting the heater hose inlet and outlet connections on the engine and water pump. There is a reason why the engine is running hot, if it actually is running hot. Is there any chance the lower radiator hose has a loose lining that is blocking flow, or that the lower radiator hose is collapsing due to pump suction? The engione is supposed to have a working thermostat. If it doesn't have one, get a 180F thermostat and install it, making sure that the thermostat is installed correctly. In some cases, a thermostat can be installed backwards, and in such a case, it may be very slow to open or it may not open at all.

200F at the outlet is in the normal range. Laser temp guns can be inaccurate on some surfaces.

As for the gauge, I suspect it isn't accurate. I'm pretty sure it should show near the middle of the gauge face at 180 to 190 F. It should not peg at anything under 212 to about 220F. Non-pressurized systems have a lower high limit. A pressurized system using modern type coolant might show H at 225 to 235 F.

Your gauge sender may be off-spec, or the car may have a gauge voltage regulator that is off spec. A poor ground at the instrument cluster might cause bad readings, or a missing engine to frame ground might affect readings. I'm assuming the gauge is electric.

If it isn't boiling over, it isn't too hot. The engine needs to run at 180F to 200 F. 210 F is no problem. ***Is the gauge accurate?****

The coolant temperature at the water outlet can be as high as 210 or so with no problem.

A 180 F themostat is usually good for general driving. 180 means it will start to open at or near that temperature.

One thing that could cause actual overheating is a heater core bypass. In some cases, bypassing the heator core with a length of hose will allow too much coolant to bypass the radiator, which might lead to overheating.

I've had a number of older engines that have shown some lifters spinning and some not. Also pushrods on OHV engines. I never had any problems with them.

I would not put either new lifters or used lifters from another engine on a used cam.


If you remove any lifters from a used engine, keep track of where they go and put them back exactly where they were.

If the engine runs well with minimal valve train noise, it's probably best to leave it alone, unless an adjustment is clearly needed.

Valve lash adjustment on older engines can be complicated by wear on lifters and valve stems, which can make using a feeler gauge difficult.

In such cases, you may have to adjust by ear, which involves loosening each valve lifter adjustment and decreasing clearance just to the point of eliminating any noise, then backing off another fraction and locking the adjustment.

A little excess clearance is better than too little. Make adjustments hot as directed by the shop manual. Too little clearnce will burn valves.

A common modern type diaphragm pump would work just as well for priming a system that has been stored.

Mount it somwhere where it can be reached and put a 6" lever on the actuator arm so that it can be manually operated. The regular stock pump should be able to pull fuel through it with no problem.

Ideally, it would be mounted under the trunk area on the frame near the gas tank and away from the exhaust, with a linkage/handle arrangement to operate it from within the trunk. A good quality choke cable or PTO cable might do to operate it.

I'd mount it in its normal upright position, and a little higher than the top of the fuel tank and locate the operating knob or handle in an out of the way spot in the trunk. Something like a coffee can could be used to make a dust/splash shield for the pump.

I believe that is the accellerator pump check valve. If the accellerator pump nozzle goes on the threaded hole near the red line, i believe the needle is dropped into the hole, point down, and the ball is dropped on top it, then the pump nozzle is installed using the correct screw. The purpose of the needle and ball is to prevent carburetor vacuum for syphoning gasoline through the accellerator pump nozzle at higher speeds. (That's what I think it is. A good diagram of your carburetor would be helpful, if one can be found.)

In the case of replacing a specified 45 amp regulator with a 41 map regulator, I don't think you'd have any trouble at all. You'd just have a slightly lower maximum charging rate, which the generator will appreciate.

Sometimes, tapping lightly on a balky regulator with a screwdriver handle will get it working again. It may keep working for a long time, or it may not. Always check all connections, including any ground wires between the regulator and the generator. If the car has an engine to frame ground, it should be in good condition. If it does not have one, adding a substantial ground cable between the engine and the car frame may improve the starter performance and generator reliability.