I was presented with the same challenge. While I'm restoring my '32 I did not want it sitting around without seeing the cylinder walls were coated with oil. I used the socket approach.

I bought a 1/2" drive what I remember as a 7/8" socket. I used a hi speed rotary cut-off wheel to cut 2 notches in the the socket.

I use a breaking bar to turn over the engine every 3 months or so.

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Dave,

Thanks for the photos they help me a lot trying to figure out how things should look. Your input on the switch on how it works is what I was kind of guessing. That's why that why I posted the question about it. When I pushed the button there was no closing of the circuit nor when I applied vacuum to the port.

It would appear that something be be either frozen up inside or the contact points are shot. I may try to take it apart to see what gives.

Again Thanks

I want to thank everyone for their input. The lead on Don Axlerod for the headlight bolts was great. He had two of them, which I bought. I also needed one of the bulb sockets, which he did not have. I tried several other sources but was unsuccessful.

Going through various catalogs for classic cars I saw that Macs had a model for a Ford that I thought I could adapt and so for eight bucks I ordered one. I removed the insulator/wires and the fitting at the rear from the socket (see 'Ford Bulb Socket' photo) from the one in the upper right\. I then 1) cut a notch from the rear, 2) sanded it to remove the plating, and 3) formed a ring out of 12 gauge copper wire, which was placed in the correct location on the socket. I then silver soldered the ring in place.

Holes were drilled through the two long pieces that protrude from the rear of the socket. A spring with the correct I.D. was bought at a local hardware store. I then installed it on the reflector and it seems to fit as good as the correct one so I installed the headlamps on the car.

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Dave,

I would suggest ordering a quart in acrylic enamel to verify it is the color you want before ordering enough to do the entire car. Also, make sure you get plenty to do the entire job with lots left over. If I remember correctly, TCP Global will mix a single batch and package it into gallon or quart cans as required.

When I bought 2 1/2 gallons of base coat for my '32 and it came in 3 one gallon cans.

I use odorless thinner for cleaning my oiled air cleaners. Flammability is low and the lack of smell is a big plus with me.

Tim,

Thanks for the input and insight. I may get a chance to give it a go with the oil this weekend. Based on input from Dave, Ken and you, I'll start at 5 psig and see what happens.

I Plan on using a 50 wt oil.

Ozstatman,

Thanks for the lead about Don Axlerod on the headlights. He had the bolts which I ordered and received yesterday.

I've not yet had the time to pressurize the Bijur system. I thought I would start at 15-20 psig and see what happens.

The line that went from the intake manifold to the fire wall had been repaired in its former life. The fix was not done correctly and the ?" copper line was a mess. Therefore, I decided to replace the ?" section. The 1/2 ' section was so extremely corroded that I could not tell if it had been nickel plated as well as the flange that bolts to the manifold

My question is what do I need to nickel plate and does the bulkhead fitting on the firewall get plated. Also, there is a vacuum switch on the bulkhead fitting. What is its purpose and does it get plated? Can it be tested to see if it works?

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DuPont use to have a radiator flush kit that was oxalic acid and sodium carbonate. You would get the engine hot and run it for 15 to 30 minutes after adding the oxalic acid. Then drain the system and flush the system with water several times. Then fill add the sodium carbonate and run for 5 or 10 minutes. Drain & fill and re-flush several times.

I used the DuPont kit on a 1962 Chevy V8 about 45 that started running hot. It did the trick the stuff that came out when draining the oxalic acid cleaning step was unbelievable. However, I think that the DuPont kit is no longer available. The kit contained about 2 cups of oxalic acid and a cup of sodium carbonate.

The last time I was in TCP Global, which was several years ago, their store brand was PPG. While they can't tell you that, they pallets of 55 gallon drums of PPG that they off load into quarts & gallon cans. It runs about 2/3 the price of what you would pay for PPG stuff.

My '32 was painted with their paint. I used their 2K Iso-Free primer. It stuck great and had good fill properties. The down side was it is a very hard primer that makes sanding a chore, but does provide a great foundation.

Their store brand of sandpaper is also very good and nicely priced.