Bought RHS106A from Max as a kit of top and bottom hoses. Both were rubber. Upper is of substantial wall thickness, lower is very thin

Did hit NAPA this AM. Guy spent a fair amount of time looking, couldn't come up with anything. Only hose that had the spring was 2" ID vs 1.75 that I have

Waiting to hear from Max

Tried just that. Old spring is pretty crusty and stuck in hose. By the time I was able to persuade it out, it was terribly bent out of shape. Attempted to rewind on a mandrel and stick mandrel in hose, but could only get about 2/3 of the spring in and cut several inches off. Hose didn't collapse in that are a but of course, the area just above where the spring ended

Hose set I bought was from Max. will call them Monday AM as it did not have the spring

FINALLY finished installing my freshly rebuilt engine in the car, everything hooked up and it started right up, what a great feeling and sound, NO SOUND , a quiet engine!

The old radiator hoses were replaced with fresh new ones. I did notice the old lower one had a spring inside it to prevent it from collapsing but the replacement does not.

At anything above a fast idle or even momentarily revving the engine, I see the lower radiator hose collapse upon itself.

I understand the spring is supposed to prevent this, but want to be certain something else isn't amiss. Fresh water pump and radiator was cored at a reputable shop, is it possible there is something wrong with the radiator before I hang the fenders and nose on?

If it needs a spring, where can I find one? Have scoured the web for one without success.

39 Packard Six

Thanks in advance !

john

Pretty certain I know but asking anyway

Replacing both u-joints on my 39. The new u-joints have a thin piece of metal strapping tack welded to both caps in both axis of the cross. Appears to me as they are excessive insurance to keep caps on u-joint during handling. One strap on each u-joint needs to be removed for clearance. Caps are held firmly in place after assembly by bolts and the drive saddles

U joints I pulled off appear to have have remnants of what appears to be these straps but the rear u-joint had one strap in tact on one cap but was broken off the other cap

Turned out to be a cracked pinion gear !

Thanks, I'll dig into this further. Looks very similar to what I have now. Does not explain noise developing after sitting on bench for 3 months. Frustrating!!!

OK, confused. Just rebuilt engine and dropped back into car. Hooked up all cables and with out plugs, spun the engine to be certain I have oil pressure before starting it up.

Starter is making an awful noise, similar to the solenoid racket when you have low voltage. Bypassed the solenoid and noise persists.

Pulled starter out, verified distance from flange to edge of gear is same as bell housing flange to flywheel.
Did notice Bendix was stuck in "start" or "Engage" mode.

Pulled nose cone off, cleaned everything up and seems OK now. There is some slop in pinion to shaft, so will need to get that fixed. Front nose bushing seems fine.,
Prior to engine pull, did compression test, no problem and no noise

SO, what did I miss in reassembly? I do not recall any shims anywhere. Find it realty difficult to believe starter went bad sitting on the bench for 3 months

Figured I out, weird size, 11/16-20. Was able to repair using a thread file

Those following my threads, put engine and trans back in the car Friday, hooking up all linkages and hoses today including lots of new hard lines. Plan to spin it today to verify oil pressure and with luck, start it up after a complete overhaul