My brother was the real mechanic, he felt that asbestos shoes lasted longer and imparted less wear and heat to the drums than their metallic replacement. They were also quieter. It goes without saying that the health affects are an issue with asbestos. Back to you for the decision.
Bob J.

Looks like the counterweight is gone on yours, makes it hard to see!
Yes, a carb rebuild is in order. I did not even hesitate on mine, just removed it sent it off right away and am very pleased with its performance, you will be equally happy I am sure.
You have quite the leak there, I suspect rad core, it looks to have wetted down the whole right side. It is a real tough spot to eyeball, removal of the inner fender allows a better view, but do not be surprised to see a wet rad core due to a myriad of pinhole weeps.
There is a reason one needs to constantly want to putter to love old cars!
Bob J.

TxGoat has pretty much covered it. Just because the car is off does not mean there is not any fuel pressure, if nothing else than simple gravity pulling the fuel already in the carb down to ground level. A wonky non-sealing float valve allows gas to bypass it and drain into the lower body of the carb. Could be as simple as varnish build-up from evaporating gas over the winter. Sometimes a shot of carb cleaner does the trick. (All engines produce water vapour when started until hot enough to dry out the internals of the engine.) I would be more worried if there was NOT a dribble of water out the tail pipe!
As to the heat riser valve. You should be able to move it by hand. It has a bi-metal spring on it to act as an over ride and lift the counterweight to have it set to cause exhaust gasses to warm up the carb base and relieve the choke quickly in cold weather. As has been stated numerous times on this site, our old cars do not really need this feature anymore as the weather we usually drive them in is usually not the bitter cold of winter, and we tend to baby them until warmed up anyway, not hurrying to get to work in stop/go traffic. So it is fine to wire the valve so it is always in the 'warm' configuration, i.e., the counterweight is dropped. This is what the bi-metal spring does when new when the engine is warm.

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On mine it was a matter of heating up the end with a soldering iron to melt the solder joint that held the brass cap onto the Bakelite insulator, then I threaded the new wire through the assembly and re-soldered it together.
Bob J.

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Or simply apply Permatex Gasket Sealant under the washer. Wipe any excess after tightening and it is almost invisible. This is not a high pressure oil area, just a splashing affect from the valve train.
Had another thought on your "percolating", is the heat riser valve stuck? That may cause excessive heat on the carb's base and boil the gas in the are? Just a thought.
Bob J.

On mine, the bolts that fasten the valve covers on have brass gaskets under them, like washers just like on the oil pan plug. Neoprene O-Rings could also work as they would take the heat.
As you know mine is a '53 Patrician 9 main with a 4V carb so it is different, at a guess, is that the bushing where the butterfly accelerator rod comes out of the throttle body? Could it have worn and allow a fuel leak? If so it would need to be machined, but other wiser members will know for sure.
On the speedometer, it might be worth a try at simply removing the head and oiling it, there is a hole to do so. I suspect it has never been oiled so it would not hurt.
I have attached the image Big Kev sent me and it worked a treat on mine.
Good luck
Bob J.

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Sorry. Too late I came up with this idea in the night for Blanche, and I ruined the one in my car too, but it may help future disassemblers.
The attached PDF posits another way to grip the escutcheon without marring the thin brass cover.
Hope it works for someone in the future.
Bob J.

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Got one for my mangled one from Max Merritt.
Bob J.

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Welcome, you have come to the right place. You have a beautiful car and the group here can help you with any questions you may have. Be sure and make use of all the literature on line here too. Coming up on a great touring season too.
Enjoy!
Bob J.

Here is a partial view of the eBrake equalizer spring on my 37, I think it is a heavier spring than the one you are asking about.
Bob J.

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