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Board index » All Posts (ironhead.chris)




Rear end gasket material
#91
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Chris R
Hey guys,

Soon I'll be rebuilding the rear end of my 53 clipper and I'd like to make my own gaskets for the backing plates and outer seal carriers.

My question is, what material and thickness should I use for these particular gaskets?

Thank you,

-Chris

Posted on: 2017/12/19 3:06
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Re: Manual brake conversion
#92
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Chris R
Thanks for all of the great info guys! I'm still trying to figure everything out in regards to parts. I'll either keep this thread updated or start a new one on the whole process.

-Chris

Posted on: 2016/2/6 2:50
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Re: Manual brake conversion
#93
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Chris R
Thank you both very much! That is great info and it really helps me understand where everything is located and how it works. I'll keep this thread updated if I end up going this route with my brake setup.

Thanks again,

-Chris

Posted on: 2016/2/2 1:31
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Manual brake conversion
#94
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Chris R
Hey guys, My Bendix Treadle Vac on the 53 Sportster needs a rebuild but I'd rather upgrade to a newer dual circuit master cylinder setup. I don't care about adding a booster because of space restraints and would like to mount the manual setup under the floor like the factory did.

I'm wondering if anyone has any pictures or info as to where exactly the factory mounted this setup. I cant for the life of me figure it out due to the cross member in that area. I've looked everywhere for pictures but the only thing I've found is the very hard to make out photo from the factory service manual.

Thanks guys,

-Chris

Posted on: 2016/1/29 2:38
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Re: 1953 Front door interchangeably
#95
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Chris R
Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. I'm thinking the door was sprung like ptv suggested and the damage shown in the pictures was someone trying to fix it with a 2x4 or something like that.

For the time being I'm just going to open the holes in the hinges a little so I can drop the door at the hinge area. I might also use some shims between the door and the hinges to space the front part of the door away from the body a little.

Thanks again guys,

-Chris

Posted on: 2016/1/29 2:12
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Re: 1953 Front door interchangeably
#96
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Chris R
Quote:

58L8134 wrote:
Hi Chris

Packard changed the windshield/A-pillar/front door frame for all sedans for the '53 models so only 1951-52 interchange and only 1953-54 interchange. See small pictures. They were going for a more hardtop look for the sedans was the motivation.

Please post pictures, there is plenty of worthwhile advice here once we see pictures to determine what to do.

Steve



Thank you very much for the great info Steve. I wasn't aware of those changed between those years. I was worried before when I thought I had four years of doors but now even more so because I only have two years :(

Here are some pictures I took to show what I'm talking about. Sorry about the poor lighting btw.

Click to see original Image in a new window


Click to see original Image in a new window


Click to see original Image in a new window


Click to see original Image in a new window




Quote:

BigKev wrote:
All Hard Top and Convertible 53-54 use the same front door.

All Sedans 53-54 use the same front doors.

With the obvious exception of the trim holes. Replacement doors from packard came with no holes drilled and it was up to the dealer/body shop to drill the "blank" to match the door it replacing.

If you door is mangled as you say, I would also make sure to replace the hinges themselves as they may also be damaged.



Thank you for the great info Kev. That's pretty interesting about the door blanks. I didn't even consider the trim holes being different between the two years. I'll have to figure that out if I find a door off of a 54.



Quote:

HH56 wrote:
You might get in touch with Gerry at Packards Southwest. As I recall from one of the photos he posted there were quite a few doors from that period lined up. He might have the one your model needs already having the correct trim holes.


Quote:

Ozstatman wrote:
Here's the thread where Gerry(packardssouthwest) advertised doors.



Thank you HH56 and Ozstatman for that info. I'm going to try and see if I can find one locally first and if not then I will certainly get a hold of Gerry.


-Chris

Posted on: 2016/1/23 4:21
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1953 Front door interchangeably
#97
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Chris R
Hi, The drivers side door on my Clipper Sportster is damaged near the a pillar / hinge area. When I first purchased the car the door would not close because the latch mechanism was broken. I found the parts at the bottom of the door and fixed the latch setup.

Now the door is not closing all the way, it looks like it's sitting to high at the A pillar area. I removed the door to have a look at everything and the whole area next the the hinges is all bent. It's really hard to explain because it doesn't look to have any accident damage to the door.

I can take pictures and post them if you guys want to see what I'm talking about.

Anywho, I'm wondering if the doors are the same from 51-54 or just 53-54?

Thanks guys,

-Chris

Posted on: 2016/1/22 2:03
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#98
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Chris R
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
Nice list of items and I'm sure others will appreciate your efforts.

Quote:
Stock 6v blower motor also work fine so far.


I'd keep a close eye on the blower motor. Wouldn't be surprised that you will find after a few minutes running the motor housing will be very hot. Once the varnish and enamel insulation on the windings start breaking down it doesn't take long for failure to occur.

I didn't see mention of the starter or solenoid. Several here have reported they ran the 6v starter on 12v seemingly without issue and suddenly had it fail due to a broken nose casting. Most opinions feel that was caused by the increased torque and the 12v action slamming the pinion into the nose. At the least I would look to see about converting the windings to 12v and getting another solenoid.



Thanks HH56,

I will keep an eye on the blower motor once I have her up and running as a daily. Eventually I'd like to convert to a 12v unit once I find one. The conversion list isn't complete as of yet because I am still in the process of doing it. I will update it as I make progress on the conversion.

For the starter setup, I plan on using a 12v Ford starter relay with the factory 6v starter. Hopefully I won't have any problems, if I do then I will definitely look into converting the windings to 12v.


Quote:

JW wrote:
Thanks for the parts list. I will be helpful to others doing a 12-volt change over. Are you using a generator or alternator? Also, which battery, Optima type or conventional wet cell?

(o{}o)



You're very welcome, I definitely hope it does help out others doing the same thing.

I plan on using a Ford 3G alternator for the source of charging and a conventional wet cell battery. I will add part numbers, prices and any other info once I complete that setup.


Quote:

HA52 wrote:
I converted my car also, and here is some info for a 24-25th series car. These are the applicable 12v bulbs:

Instrument lights - 57
Turn signal/hi beam indicator lights - 53
Oil/battery indicator lights - 57
Column shift indicator light, ultramatic - 53
Inside glovebox light - 57
Under dash courtesy lights - 90
Rear dome light - 104
Headlights - H6024 halogen (use relays)
Front park/turn sig lights - 1157A (amber)
Tail/brake lights - 1034 (also could use 1157, 2057, 198)
Reverse lights - 1156 (also 199, 1141)
Rear license light - 67
Trunk light - 89

I had to replace some other components also, using these allows the use of the existing points etc in the distributor:
Coil - NAPA IC12
Ignition ballast - NAPA ICR13

Because I used an aftermarket wiring harness with a fuse box and new horn and turn signal relays, I could also discard the circuit breakers behind the instrument panel and wire components to dedicated fuses.

I also purchased a prewired headlight relay setup from the same vendor, to allow modern halogen headlights while retaining the original headlight switch.

I procured a set of horns and a heater fan from a wrecked '55 which were already 12v.

I did not replace the instrument voltage converter (powers the gas and temp gauges) as the existing unit will work with 12v, it provides an intermittent 5v signal to the gauges.

I didn't replace or convert the starter, although there have been some reports of problems from that so far no issues in 900 miles. But you'll need to replace the starter solenoid switch with a 12v three-terminal unit.

I replaced my generator with a rebuilt Delco 10SI alternator, I used a NAPA p/n 213-4011B reman unit, about 63 amps. Overkill but no cost advantage for going smaller. I got a 3-wire unit, which allows me to wire the BAT idiot light into the alternator wiring - so if the BAT light comes on either the alternator has quit or the belt came off.

There are some other installation details in my project blog, but these are the parts to change.



That's a great addition to the thread HA52! Hopefully between both of our info provided in this thread people will have a very easy time doing the same conversion.

I don't fully understand the need for the headlight relays. On my setup I installed the same bulbs and everything worked without any problems. Is it because I'm still using the factory harness?

-Chris

Posted on: 2015/12/28 4:37
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26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#99
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Chris R
Hello, I'm in the process of converting my 53 clipper to 12v and wanted to share my parts lists and info for anyone interested in doing the same conversion. I will continue to update this thread as I make progress.



Parts Lists


Lighting circuit

- Courtesy lamp (under dash) - P/N 1004 - QTY 2

- Glove box lamp - P/N 57 - QTY 1

- Instrument cluster - P/N 57 - QTY 8

- High beam indicator (in cluster) - P/N 1445 - QTY 1

- Backing lamp - P/N 1156 - QTY 2

- Trunk lamp - P/N 1156 - QTY 1

- Rear tail lamps - P/N 1157 - QTY 2

- Front parking / Direction lamp - P/N 1157A - QTY 2

- Headlamps - P/N H6024 - QTY 2

- Rear Courtesy lamp - P/N 1155 - QTY 1

- License lamp - P/N 1155 - QTY 1

- Turn signal flasher relay (12v 3 pin) - P/N 550 - QTY 1


Ignition system

- Stock replacement distributor cap

- Stock replacement rotor

- Stock replacement condenser

- Stock replacement spark plug wires

- Spark plugs - Autolite 308

- Coil - Universal 12v (internal resistor)



Info


Lighting circuit

For the most part the lighting circuit is pretty self explanatory but I would like to explain a few things.

- Inside the instrument cluster are a total of nine bulbs. Eight of them are #57 bulbs while only one is a 1445 bulb. Four of the #57 bulbs illuminate the instrument cluster, two of them are for the direction indicators, one is for the battery discharge indicator and the last one is the oil pressure indicator. The one 1445 bulb is for the high beam indicator.

- The research that I did regarding the turn signal flasher indicated that some manufacturers 6v units did work on 12v while others didn't. I initially powered everything up with the factory unit and it was a no go. I guess the units Packard used doesn't like 12v. The 550 flasher relay was a direct replacement on my 26th series but may not be on an earlier model.


Misc

- Stock 6v horns and 6v horn relay work fine so far.

- Stock 6v blower motor also work fine so far.
















-Chris

Posted on: 2015/12/21 1:48
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Re: Recent additions to the Owner Registry
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Chris R
Thanks Ozstatman!

That's a good eye, the 55 is still for sale. Maybe once she finds a new owner she'll pop up on here as well.

-Chris

Posted on: 2015/12/9 22:18
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