Hmm, I'm not sure to be honest. The Low gear (when I have it selected to Low that is) just acts as though it's in neutral. The High gear and Reverse do work. Is it possible my High selector is actually giving me Low?? Hadn't considered that. The car does cruise well at a variety of speeds - sort of just assumed I'd be pretty limited speed-wise in Low. I know all the bands can be adjusted - will try to see what everything is.

Been a couple weeks since I've checked the fluid, but I'll confirm it's still there (literally ever seal leaks, sigh).

Thanks for this, Howard! I took the throttle body assembly apart tonight, found that the plates were definitely binding up. Loosened the screws on the plates and adjusted them so the throttle assembly moves freely. Other than that, nothing was noticeably off on the throttle body. I did also notice the cotterpin on the vacuum piston wasn't in the right place and causing the pin that holds the metering rods getting caught up on the anti-perc arm. Fixed that, too.

Still found myself in the (generally) same place, though. Basically, going into High cuts the engine speed in half. Or vice versa (engine speed doubles going into park).

I know my timing is locked in. I'm going to try switching out my plugs for some fresh ones to take ignition out of the equation. Manifold vacuum is 20 hg in Park once the engine is warm (drops to around 15 in High); holds steady.

Will chase the throttle valve linkage you were talking about tomorrow. Are there lube points to eliminate the possibility of sticking?

Thanks again!

Hey all,

Enjoying my Super Deluxe 8 a lot! Recently had a couple issues corrected on my carburetor and trying to get it dialed in. Question on setting the idle speed. For setting the timing, manual says between 450 and 500. Got it. I've read on the 24th, the suggestion was to set the idle to 375 with the vehicle in high. Got it. When I set the idle to 375 in high on my 23rd, the RPM guns up 650-700 when I put it in park. Seems SO fast, and I haven't found anything specific the 23rd series with the Ultramatic. Should 375 indeed be my target speed, or should it be slowed to the speed used to set timing (450-500). Thanks, all!

Hey all! Working through some of the technical elements on my 23rd series. Car should be getting it's new gas tank installed in the next week or two. The fabricator (Rock Valley Auto) also sent a TAN-GME (0-30 Ohms) fuel sending unit that I'm assuming isn't going to work with the gas gauge as is (read all the background on that). The gauge needed to be repaired anyways, so I'm curious if there is anyone out there who knows someone who can not only repair the gauge, but also update the internal elements of the gauge so that it will communicate with this sending unit.

Also looking to get the clock going again, doing similar modern internal upgrades (Quartz movement and what not). Vehicle is 6v/positive ground. Anyone y'all recommend to do this work? Thanks in advance!

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Thank you, both. This is super helpful. I wonder, too, if this might be vapor lock. I noticed the fuel line is actually touching the radiator as it loops around to the carburetor. Chance this might be my demon as well?

I did top off my oil with viscosity enhancer and the oil I used to the change to bring it back to full. Initially ran great... then lots of stalling, hard starting, running rough. I'm going to try to adjust the fuel line so it's not contacting the radiator and see if that makes a difference.

Thanks again!

Hey everybody,

I'm made some progress on my model 2372. I've reverted the car back to 6v/positive ground, new voltage regulator, though I did replace my points with a Pertronix ignition. Running into the following issues and need some help troubleshooting.

When I first start the car up in the day, it runs great. It starts immediately, it's quiet, relatively smooth, and the car moves well. As it reaches operating temperature, I see my oil pressure (which starts at 40) begin to drop as I decelerate, eventually stalling out. It's then a little dicey starting back up (though it eventually does). In neutral, the oil pressure bounces right back up to 40. In high or reverse, it drops to 35, then to 30, and so on, and the idle is slow and rough. But again, this is only when the engine is hot.

I did notice that I'm down about a quart of oil, so I'm going to fix that when I get back home, but I'm sure I have an issue with worn piston rings, and the new spark plugs may already be fouled from oil leaching into the cylinder. I'm running "Classic Car Motor Oil" 15W-40. I haven't done a radiator flush yet, but it's on my to-do list.

What else should I be looking for in terms of the engine losing power/stalling when it's at operating temperature? Thanks in advance, everyone!

Hey everybody! Thankfully, I think for now I figured this one out. I checked for vacuum leaks and tightened any screws in areas that seemed suspect, but the stalling continued. I did some more Googling and found this article that talks about the choke mechanism on the Carter WDO:

https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/carter-wdo-choke/.

So this morning, I fiddled around the with choke spring - this seemed to bring it back around. No stalling on my little putzing around the neighborhood!

Hello,

Alright, I tried my hand at rebuilding the original Carter WDO carburetor on my 23rd Series Super 8. It ran really well for about a day, but developed a new issue: it now stalls when I come to a stop, or runs rough in the low RPMs as it idles in high or reverse (low isn't working at all at the moment...) - definitely wants to stall then as well. It revs, cruises, and accelerates without too much issue.

I just got the car, and the previous owner hadn't driven the car, so he wasn't sure if this condition existed before I rebuilt the carb. I'm inclined to think I did something wrong with the rebuild.

To me, it sounded like fuel starvation, but the filter before the carb (which I replaced this past Saturday) is full of fuel (it's currently running from a electric fuel pump). Is the engine actually flooding because there's no regulator?

I do know the engine needs a full tune up (at the VERY least) - the spark plugs have a significant amount of carbon build up, oil needs to be changed (I'm seeing some smoke come out of the oil filler pipe when it's hot), wires probably have the same amount of experiences as the spark plugs, etc. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance!

Thank you so much, everyone! This was incredibly helpful. I'm assuming that to replace the seal, the transmission would need to be dropped?

Also, I'm located in Greenville, NC!

Hey everyone!

I just purchased a 1950 Super Deluxe 8 Touring Sedan. Going to need some work, but the car has a ton of potential.

One of the first things I noticed was a MASSIVE transmission fluid leak. I sort of assumed the gaskets were shot, but then I discovered a little hole on the bottom of the flywheel housing. Is this just a drain plug or did someone, for some reason, drill a hole in the housing?

Either way, would LOVE to be able to plug the hole. Any suggestions on where to find a plug? Max Merritt and Kanter don't have anything listed on their site for such an accessory. Any help is appreciated!

As a bonus, would love to find some (3 to be exact) window cranks and the fender skirts. Thanks, everyone!

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