Thanks for the response. I'll try anything once, but here's the thing with my car. The shuddering problem was around long before I started using Rotella T last year. For the first 60+ years of it's life the car used conventional motor oil (of various viscosities). If memory serves (many times it doesn't!) the shuddering problem appeared once I started driving the car again after letting it sit for years.

Thanks for the article. I replaced both the spring wrapped vertical piece and the "nubbers" on each end of the long stabilizer rod between trans case and frame. I'll check out all other potential soft support points mentioned in the article. Thanks to all who responded.

I read the posts re shuddering upon acceleration, but I believe this is a different issue. I problem my 50 Packard Deluxe 8 is having happens only when letting out the clutch in 1st gear from a dead stop. It doesn't happen when up shifting or when going in reverse. The clutch and differential have recently been rebuilt and the rubber OD support/damper and the front motor mount (in the horse collar) have been replaced. I believe the shudder is less pronounced since the rubber mounts were replaced, but it definitely has not been eliminated. I was recently watching one of the restoration car shows on cable and one of the characters made reference to that shudder, leading me to believe it was a common ailment in older cars. Any ideas?

Thanks one and all for the info. The vacuum advance was working properly. When I advanced the timing as far as possible mechanically, it sounded about the same as when timed per specs, if not a little stronger. I also installed a separate Bourdon Tube type temperature gauge and was pleased to find the running temperature was a steady 190? in the summer (a little less in cold weather with a new 180? thermostat). Once the weather warms up I plan to readjust the timing back to 6? BTDC and see if the running temp changes. I may eventually reconnect the original temp sender to see where the 190? mark is on the in-dash gauge. I'd also like to see if the TDC timing mark is still on the money. Any advice on the most accurate way to do this?

Thanks for the response.

Is there a simple explanation why the engine runs hotter when the timing is off?

Just so I am clear, changing the timing from 4 deg BTDC to 6 deg BTDC would be advancing the timing? And Sam found that 12 deg BTDC worked best for his car?

...has the radiator and block been treated and back-flushed with a chemical cooling system cleaner like oxalic acid?

No

Have you had the radiator tested for flow-rate? Perhaps it's time to consider a radiator test and possible recore.

Radiator was recently recored.

Water distribution tube been checked?

Scoped it when I recently replaced water pump. Looked very clean and in very good shape.

Undersize tail pipe or muffler?

Recently replaced entire exhaust system with stock system.

Incorrect fan belt fit in the water pump pulley?

Recently replaced with Gates 26501 (is that an appropriate replacement part?). Seems to fit well (flush with top edge of pulley and is not riding on bottom of pulley).

What's the distance between the fan blades and the radiator core?

1.25"

Thanks again.

Owen, Jim, and Sam, thanks for the responses. Several older responses also referred to timing, so I'm going to give it a try, but am not sure what I will be listening for. Is it just a matter of finding the timing point when the engine seems to run the smoothest?

I am also curious what effect a lead substitute gasoline additive has (good or bad) on the operating temperature of the engine.

While I am trying these various suggestions in my pursuit for a cooler running engine, I'd be a lot more comfortable knowing what the temperature danger zone is for this engine, so I can avoid doing any serious damage to it. If anyone knows, I'd welcome your comments.

I realize I'm arriving pretty late to this party, but when I found this forum topic, I was very interested because my 50 is exhibiting the same "overheating" problem, at least according to the factory gauge. I have not experienced my newly cored radiator boiling over, but would very much like to know at what temperature I should be concerned about the head warping or other damage to the engine.

Don

Thanks. Your help is much appreciated.

I am trying to get my 1950 Deluxe 8 Packard mechanically sound before starting any restoration efforts. I hit a snag when I found the shifter was stuck in 1st(?) and would not allow me to shift into reverse (or 2nd and 3rd as well, apparently). When I disconnected the linkage to the rear lever coming out of the transmission (Low-Reverse?) I was able to move both the rear and front levers manually. Each lever seemed to have three positions and I found each lever had to be in the middle position before I could move the other lever. I had to move the rear lever to the forward position to reconnect the linkage to it and when I did so, locked up the shifter again.

Another reader pointed me towards your post from 6/5/09. I've attached a photo to assist in zeroing in on the little hole you mentioned where you added motor oil.

Any help is appreciated.

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Thanks for the post.

When looking at the lower end of the shifting column, is there supposed to be up and down movement of the shift levers when shifting? Also, how much separate movement should there be between the two levers at the bottom of the shifting column when shifting? I ask because I've noticed one lever doesn't move much without the other one moving with it and there is little or no up and down movement of the levers (either separately or together). I am wondering if that means the two shift levers are sticking together at the base of the shifting column from the accumulation of dirt, moisture, grease, and corrosion over the years. If they are sticking, what is the best way to free them up and lubricate them?

I attached a photo of the column and levers. Notice a zerk fitting a little below and left of center of the pack35.jpg photo. I plan to add some grease there, but don't see an obvious place to lube the lower end of the shifter column.

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