Next up, a friend with an ornamental iron and fabrication business wants a flatbed for special deliveries.

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Delivered the 51 Coupe-Packup some days ago and thought you might like to see a few shots.

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Yes, I hear you that the tube is clear. But if there is the tiniest pinhole in the tube the pump will suck air rather than lift the fuel out of the tank.

Potomac Packard will make you a very nice harness. 706 746 2318 potomacpackard@windstream.net

Reading carefully, I can about guarantee you that there is a small pinhole in your steel line. That often happens where the line passes over the axle, usually under one of the retaining clips.

Given the age of these cars I automatically replace the entire fuel line when waking one up. The time in the garage is much shorter than the time along the side of the road.

You can cut the top of the radiator hoop and bolt it back, BUT--as Don says it is not that hard to remove the whole front clip which makes attending to a thousand other details very easy. I always remove the engine and trans together so I can service the trans etc at the same time.

There is one big bolt and two struts holding the cradle at the front. In the car remove the kick panels for access to the fender bolts.

During all normal driving the pressure in the PS system is very low as the fluid merely circulates until assisted steering action is called for. The system will only approach 650 psi when yanking the wheel out of a deep rut or some such and the pump essentially dead heads against the power cylinder piston. Its a little hard to see how a hydroboost can share with that. Hit the brakes on a straight stop and there is almost nothing for the hydroboost to work with as it is all bypassing through the steering control valve.

A '41 120 is a great driving car with surprisingly good handling, ride, acceleration and braking. With the overdrive you can roll down the interstate at 70 no probs. As grody as the chassis looks, it would not be a bad idea to sling the the body up off of it and attend to all the mechanical details at once. That will pay the big dividend of avoiding a long stream of little breakdowns.

I would for sure though try to get it to run so you have an idea what you are dealing with. After you have oiled the cylinders, try to get a wrench on the front pulley and turn it two full revs to be sure the valves are not stuck down.

Mechanical parts are not a problem to obtain for these cars.

My guess is that the sprag clutch inside the convertor is not taking up its load as you coast to a stop. If it does not grip and hold the stator turbine still, the convertor becomes remarkably inefficient and will hardly even move the car with high revs. Some how when switched off the sprags regain their grip and you can move off.

For trouble shooting purposes I assume you have tried the High, Drive and Low positions. It would be good to plumb a gage into the high range port mentioned in the sevice manual to be certain it is getting pressure when you attempt to take off in high. If you get suitable pressure there and no forward motion on takeoff, then it is almost certain the sprag clutch is not holding.

Refresh my memory. What do you wish to do with this vehicle when it is done? If anything more than very short and easy trips you will need to pull the engine anyway.

I went back and looked at some of the engine pictures. You have heavy scoring in one of the cylinders, and judging from the wear pattern at the top #4, the top piston ring has already broken. With a little more running the ring pieces will migrate out the top of the piston where after they just love to get under a valve and hold it open. This is the common long-stroke engine disease. Have seen it on Chryslers, Buicks, Packs etc.

The deposits in your cooling passages are frightening as are the ones in your oil pickup and rusted out pan. I'm not sure this engine is going to you any lasting satisfaction.

That said, it is not difficult to install helicoils with the engine in the car. I do it with the head on as the head provides a very helpful guide for the tap drill for the helicoil. You can buy a little kit from NAPA for 7/16-20 threads. Put the stud in with plenty of loctite and you are done.