thank you

prety sour oil pressure after warmed up 10psi. was hoping to possibly shim the relief spring. but am hearing 35 was no relief spring. i just wanted to see how many gaskets i may destroy as well

thnks for the info

could someone please post a blow up for me before i dive in blind

i have done a couple wood graining projects, beleive it or not the model a handbook has a whole article on woodgraing in the back of the book
the base color has to be matched in your case, i used a laquer base tan myself. just some old bench paint until i got the desired color, once that was dry i used a rustoleum color a dark brown mixed w a boiled lynseed oil, this can be brushed on. i let that set for an hour.then i used 4 acid brush to make my patern. this then needs to set a few days to dry.


thats how i was taught, probley many other tecniques on it

i have an older one and takes a battery ,it dsnt care what voltage vehicle its on.

yes i havent bothered to. im just so happy it charges
got to give it a little rev and will push a strong 25 anp or so.and u see it slack off as it charges. i find it way nicer than a cut out style regulator . lights nice and bright.
remember i had junk here to deal with, im trying to keep this packard on the road
i landed a sweet deal on tires today. they are 600-16 a little small but new with tubes 100$ for 2

Well gentlemen here is what i did to convert to 12v negative earth
i installed a basic gm roughly 80`s vintage (alt) the hot was simple i ran right to the starter hot lug
the next was what i call the energizer or tickler wire that i grabbed off the hot side of my ballast resistor i installed. very cheap 5 bux that is to work with the 12v coil.(key on hotwire ) (i cut open my armored casing to grab my hot lead to ballast, then out of balast to + on coil, - on coil right to distributor) thats another story . i was even able to use stock length belt.
i used a super small pully from the a model catalog SNYDERS there on line it is a large belt size and made to thread right onto a gm alt.
i spaced it out with another spacer from another alternator. these gm alternators are plentiful.
funny thing when i tap the throttle the lights go bright and the amp guage is reversed.
all bulbs seem to be a swap
i know some done t care for the 12v conversion, but it was a neccesity for me, 1/2 my electrics were shot and i had doner cars. ask more if u need advice

these mods were done to a 1935

thank u all once again.
here is todays work. i have a new fan belt no slipage at all. i can let this thing run idle for ever and it stays at 180. as soon as i drive more than a mile or 2 i start seeing it creep up till eventually it pegs the gauge. once i stop it settles back down to 180, i also noticed there is no spot for a thermostat,as the ridge in the head i would expect to hold a thermostat is missing. i suppose i will add a thermostat to the upper hose as in my 29 model a
i made up a set of plug wires today as well from an old hei
set i had here. runs nice and smooth now.
im thinking this radiator is comming out on saturday.

the water distribution tube..
is it removable threw a grille slot or does the grill need to comme off. also if i get the fan blade off, wich was just off 3 days ago.. with fan off does water pump have to be removed. or will radiator go past the pump

AS OF LAST WEEKS WATER PUMP PACKING . THE PULLY WILL NOT COME OFF. IT HITS RADIATOR.
THIS IS A 120 MODEL.
AND WHAT ON EARTH IS A WATER DISTRIBUTION TUBE.
1/4 IN FINE THREAD WITH STAR WASHERS



THANKS GUYS...