Hi:

Our '29 626 is a very early model (built August, 1928) with the side-mount water pump. It has two zerk fittings and a small hole in the top of the pump that looks like it might have a channel to the bearing for the pulley. The lube chart calls for "yellow grease" I assume that they expect a water-resistant lube.

What is the hole in the top for? Why would we need two zerks and an oil hole for the bearing?

Thanks for your time.

Pat

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I drilled and tapped two holes, one a 3/8 NF, the other 1/8 NPT. The one original plug fit the NPT hole, therefore the original plugs must have been NPT.

The problem was that the original plug I had was too short to see if there was any taper. It is very difficult on a 1/4" long plug to see if it has 24 or 27 tpi.

Pat

BlackBeerd:

Exactly, and that is why when someone puts a 1/8" pipe zerk in a 3/8" NF hole it screws up the threads!

Pat

Owen-Dyneto:

I have seen where someone has tried to put a 1/8" pipe zerk in a 3/8" NF hole......it sort of starts, then screws up the threads! (case in point, our '31 Buick Indy Racer kingpins).

Pat

Blackbeerd:

kI agree that 1/8" pipe and 1/8" NF are worlds apart, however, we were talking about 1/8" NPT and 3/8" NF; not 1/8"NF.....

Pat

Hi:

Three of the four U-Joint plugs on our 626 have been replaced with Zerks. I can't tell from the one plug, but the Zerks appear to be 1/8" NPT.

I want to replace with plugs as per the manual. Am I correct that the threads are NPT or are then 3/8" NF?

As an aside, these Zerks have been used to grease the joints, although the manual calls for gear oil. Will I have any problems replacing the grease with gear oil? I plan to do this over time, just using gear oil to eventually replace the grease.

Thanks,

Pat

Thanks Tim for your help,

I have been using 140w GL-4 in the trans and diff.

I raised the issue because I just noticed that the Service Manual calls for "600W or Whitmore's 'O' Compound". Is 160w the new 600w?

I know the higher viscosity will aid in shifting (although we really do not have a problem). The transmission and differential depend on "splash" lubrication as the fill level is below the bearings for the transmission input and output shafts. With the higher viscosity it could take a bit to get gear lube to the bearing surfaces, particularly if the car sits for any length of time.

Our winters are very mild, rarely getting below 32 degrees, and this car winters in an Airplane/Automobile Museum.

We are preparing to take off on the CCCA National Tour in a few weeks, and we think we will be the oldest car on the tour. That means that we will have to "push" the car a little more than normal (note, I said push, not thrash).

The added protection of the GL-5 in both the trans and especially the differential would be welcomed; if for no other reason than to put us at ease.

Thanks again,
Pat

I know the idea of modern gear lube, yellow metals (brass/bronze), and correct gear lube weight has been flogged to death.

I am particularly interested as it relates to my '29 626. Is there any yellow metal (brass or bronze) used in bushings, thrust washers, or spacers in the transmission or differential? I realize I do not have synchros, so there is little risk with using a GL-5 Gear Oil. Modern GL-5 gear oil is supposedly non-corrosive to brass or bronze. Corrosion is not the problem.

Information I received in an e-mail from Richard Widmer (http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Transaxle.html) explained "As for the GL-4/GL-5 issue, the GL-5 covers and surpasses the GL-4 ONLY in EP protection. They are not the same and are not interchangable. Most gears oils of 40 years ago had lead based EP packages. Today they are Sulfur/Phosphorous. The GL-5 has twice the sulfur/phos quantity as the GL-4. Sulfur/phos works by chemically forming a sacrificial surface on the surface it is to protect. That (black) covering wears off and forms again to wear off and form again. On steel that is fine. On soft metal (brass, etc) it peels off a layer of the soft metal. Not really visible to the eye (that can only see >40 microns) but shows up as worn area over time or in oil analysis. So if a differential or transmission has brass or other soft metals (synchronizers, forks, or shims) you probably want to stay away from GL-5. If it is all steel, GL-5 is fine and will provide better anti-wear."

So, is there any brass/bronze in my '29 Packard?

Thanks for your help.
Pat

Or how about a repop of one of the famous Jesse Vincent racers?

http://www.ohioconcours.com/2002/r-02-3915.jpg

Pat

OOPS!

Math error. The Borg-Warner R-10 OD is .70 ratio. The 4.36 would therefore perform like a 3.05. That's what happens when you try and do math in your head! My 4.09 performs as a 2.86.....that's why she wants to fly in OD.

Pat