How much is it lowered and did you use the stock frame?
Not sure those grips will fit stock withoutradical tub, otherwise.

I'm not aware of any cherry picker style engine crane that's suited for top removal of engine and trans. Especially the chinese take out variety available today. It would have to be a ~5 ton so to get that kind of weight fully extended and not tip. Plus with the auto on, it's a near vertical pull to clear the body/cross frame so lift height is critical. AND if the car is jacked to get access, that raises that height and you have to lower while coming out to clear body. I see an overhead crane as a more likely approach. Old(er) timers used A-frames.
Maybe a truck unit, but they tend to take the clip off for access. My diesel pickup is made that way. Whole cab comes off.
On the P, it was all I could handle and had to reinforce the unit to get engine and manual out with the front off. Can't imagine working with auto with 2 ton. I pulled the CAD that way and hit the core support and wisely removed it going back in and for repair. Took opportunity to straighten and powder coat support, so all is not lost in removal.
More common with lift and trans jack bottom removal. Most don't have that luxury. Some of the small garages will do on the floor, even outside, but strong arm method and trained. My buddy took the diesel 5 speed out of my other 4x4 truck from below by hand/floor unit but they do that for a living. Plenty of room under in 4x4.
Investigate/plan any lift before you attempt. It's too late when things are dangling.

'06 Dodge Dakota, I'll check it out.
Not sure his is the best way to go, ie, "weld" body to frame? A bit of a rough rider. Like the guy that put a Cad body on a 4x4. WHY?

I've done considerable investigation on this over the past 6 years. Just getting back to it.
I investigated BMW and MB AMG V-12s,as well as Bentley, Lambo, Ferrari, and the $30K+ racing ones from Falconer. Most of the internet ones that were available came from floods, so was a buyer beware issue. Plus the used ones are usually high mileage from breakers or some block/part damage from collision. Also at the mercy of the market for availability. I still search out of frustration and pretty much gave up in favor of a more conventional V-8. I almost bought a local used MB but gave up when I got into the computer issues and what to do with an expensive car w/o engine.
I found one Beemer and the Beemer racing place wanted $10K up front to "go through it and modify the computer" for non-beemer use and plus parts.
AMG is more secretive. The computer code manuals are in German and they won't allow/sanction modifications. They have a whole host of suspension, trans, and other sensor inputs that are on the MB chassis, that won't allow the motor to run, if not connected. You'd almost have to buy a whole car and convert yourself, which I found not cost effective(above) and if you invest and can't get it to go, it's a disaster. Thanks for info.

PS; Just checked '96 Dakota 131" WB, so would have to shorten. His car must be a larger animal.

This is a big issues for some other period brands, too. The nylon mast drive breaks, but not available new/NOS. Can use the old ones, if good, but won't last, they break with age. Supply is dwindled, so I hope someone comes up with a repro part. Motors aren't made either, few, if any, options for rebuild due to size.
So if anyone knows of other sources, please post. I haven't found any.

Morrison, et al are on my radar. Probably $10-15K by comparison but would include suspension & driven unit.
Didn't find the Dodge Dakota post but makes sense, that's about the same as a S-10 WB. Have to sort out my plans going forward.
TKs all.

I'm thinking of reviving my modified P project - '49 Deluxe Club 2 dr sedan(aka fastback). I've got too much invested, to sell as is.
When I left off, I was searching for a frame to replace the factory x-frame. All kinds of routing issuus, suspension not suited, it's riveted, and don't want to cut up it's original. I'll keep with the motor. I was trying to do this so it could be reversed to stock.
It's 120" WB which is the same as the S-10 P/U. Those aren't known for their suspension, so would have to modify. I guess I could opt for full custom, $$$. I was going that way at the time because I was looking for a modern V-12, and the geometry issues. Never found that as a viable route, mostly for availability and the programming, so I'll probably
go with more traditional power. I have a good NASCAR engine builder who did my Caddy, which kinda took the wind out the the P project.
Anyone done this or know of something in that WB?

Breaking a spring is not "that" easy. Either over revving or temporary stiction. Opens the question; Masking some other problem?
If issue is confined to one cylinder then something's going on with that one. Usually, bad parts are not confined to one. Broken spring could be analyzed for failure mode. But defer to Ross, etc. Maybe known bad parts abound.
Seems odd to change springs and not other parts? Raises possibility same cylinder involved previous, and the extraneous washer new spring fix.
My guess, not going to get out with just exchanging lifters. Could be underlying lube, wear, etc. issue.
Usually more to these stories, and without a pull apart, can't say from afar.

PAC had this string on '37 choke. Picture of thermostat but no linkage.
"The thermostatic spring assembly is mounted in a cavity in the exhaust manifold. Just follow the actuating rod down from the choke valve down to the manifold to see it (assuming it's still present). Good illustration and instructions in the 1937/38 Shop Manual available as a reprint. If you're serious about properly maintaining your car I highly recommend you purchase the shop manual."

This was on here once before, and classic & exotics made one,
https://straight-eight.com/product-category/ee-23/
But they're retired and selling remaining inventory.
This is part. I'd scarf if up quick.

Probably have to call some of the other P parts guys or run an add in the PAC pubs or Hemmings, if no one antes up here. Plus the holiday factor.

Probably can find a picture if you search around enough, but I'm not a prewar-ee. These were not as common as the 97s.

ps: one on Ebay.https://www.ebay.com/itm/254720834412

I have this old Motor manual for pre-war, copied the sections don't know if it helps.

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box may have the part and group number on end flap, so you can look up on the prats list. Can't make it from the photo. There's printing for it, but can't see anything.