Makes my bead blaster cabinet look better...
ablative laser technology is used for commercial etching and numbering, etc. Off-shoot of the space program/DARPA. I think they're CO2 filled but not sure about this one. Guess he might have lost a single layer of skin cells when he went over his hand.

Probably need to measure what size and catalog what type each are and search around and buy some universal or an assortment and try and find new replacements. May also require a bit of tweaking to make them work/be tight. Obviously, your parts place doesn't know.
Otherwise, you have to get from a donor/parts car that's in good shape and that's not likely. Behind stainless trim is a dirt and water trap/rust inviting environment.
clipsandfasteners.com or restoration specialties are some suppliers. AuVeCo supplies/manufactures too. You'd have to go to a body shop supply to find others. Ask your local body shop, if they know or have a catalog.

I had my '49 tank done by a Renu guy in WVA and he did a poor job. So check out the places work before you commit. It was about $400 back then, 6-7 years ago. It's still sitting in the loft.
Best to go to a radiator shop and have them split in two, and clean/repair the inside then solder/weld it back together. They were pinch roll welded back then.
Since I'm building custom, I bought a new tank, and will use that if I ever bet back on this project.
The new tanks use a silicone steel that resists rust better than the old steel.

You'll need to flush the line(might be bad and needs replaced too) and the carb if no inline filter. Should be a fuel bowl on it that should catch particulate. If none, then carb has to be pulled and cleaned. I'd put one on it for next time.

https://www.proxibid.com/MacFadden-Son ... tion/event-catalog/207971

There's a '28 and a separate motor w/ trans that has an updraft so must be pre-war.

I rebuilt my '49 combo fuel/vacuum (and carb) after I rescued it, and I think I got the kits from "Then and Now Automotive". Weymouth MA
But any kit for that model pump just check it's new and ethanol proof. Match to the one you take off.
ps: I've had to buy several on some rebuild kits, because of inferior/wrong parts these days. They'll tell you "we sold thousands" but that doesn't mean they're right. Best to check the old literature to use as a cross reference. I've had to buy some catalogues, manuals, etc. to get the right info. Some are on-line; old manual project, etc.

I think it needs to come out and be taken apart, but I'm an optimist. No telling what caused it and better to find it, than chance messing it up. You don't want to start it if you get it unstuck with MMO.
I see many get in a hurry to start their "find" only to later have major issues. First they ask about a tick or noise or no oil pressure, etc.
My '49 (288) sat outside for years and I could turn it by hand before I bought it.
Conv. car's got good value, so best to have a sound motor in it, but assuming, we didn't see the rest of it.

Nice car. I was watching "gun crazy" the other day and there's a victoria used in the movie. When the two "perps" split up she gets into the '48 packard ragtop.
There's another famous George Raft flick "Red light" and he's driving one.

I'll give you "heck" for that universal flex radiator hose. They gave me the "heck" treatment when I showed my '49 back from the grave.

Someone else posted a link before me, if you want the whole story.
This piece is most likely well later after GM bought them in '32 and before they were spun as Delphi. As someone noted, no zip code, so pre-zipcodes. Prior history is irrelevant to this piece, two separate entities well before when this appeared.

The motor car parent was Ohio automobile (division) and was split/sold/formed PMC in '02, moved to Detroit circa '03-6?
Packard Electric stayed in Warren.
They can contact the Packard Museum over in Warren, OH and help them decide it's age and value, history.

That's not associated with Packard Motor Cars.
Packard Electric was a GM division that was spun off/sold. Now bankrupt remnants operate as Delphi Electric. They made all sorts of auto electrical wire, parts, connectors, and supplied many brands, not just GM. Originally located in Warren, OH which is the original home of Packard Motor Car which moved to Detroit early on.
Essex was the other major competitor supplier.
Quite possible someone in that Natrona house had a connection to a Packard employee or had family that was. For value, I'd say each connector is worth around $0.50-$1 . Not sure if anyone collects that as there were many employees over the years, so likely common.

Even if you match the paint, it's all in how it's layed down in the end. The primer color also can affect the final color. Takes expert painters to match the finish in metallics, pearls, etc. Why spotting is often difficult. The old straight enamals(alkyds) are high solids don't have that problem and were often touched up on the line. Lacquer is thinned to the max and multi coat. The metallic can settle out in the gun, if you don't keep it mixing.
Best to spray out panels and adjust to what you want. Some formulae call for a drop or two of one pigment in a gallon and it's a dispensing and mixing issue.
Best to buy enough and mix all the gallons together, reduce, and shake, so there's no can to can variations. The modern aqueous paints are also difficult I hear for the smaller shops.