Re: fuel pump
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I suspect you drop the first three Packard subnumbers to reference the AC numbers.
I'll go down the garage and see what's what. I'm pretty sure I have a chart somewhere. added: If you look at file ending 75, that's the factory prefix number adds I mention above. Good thing to know when searching parts, how it was done. The 9589 is the same as a 9294, so if you look across from the early P numbers to Olds on file 90, that's the equivalent as already noted. The other file is all the rest of the years for P. Kev, should post these somewhere on here or tell me how and where? Last time only he could do those things but I'm not uptodate. Attach file: img20240316_14384090.pdf Size: 519.18 KB; Hits: 20 img20240316_14370475.pdf Size: 677.30 KB; Hits: 7 img20240316_14393580.pdf Size: 584.83 KB; Hits: 9
Posted on: 3/16 12:22
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Glimpse of the past.
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I'm reading an update bio of the founder of Cummins diesel. Synopsis snippet: In his early years circa turn of the 20th century, while working for Marmon, et al, he developed noted driving and machinist skills.
His family had ties to the local banker who owned a '07 Packard open touring car. Banker did not know how to drive it! He apparently bought it to have his wife and himself chauffeured around and she fired the driver for lighting up a cigarette while driving. Talk about "principled" Packard owners, open car, no smoking? Later, cars wouldn't sell without ash trays and lighters!! Vape cartridges ended that in lieu of cup and phone holders. The banker hires between jobs teenaged Cummins to drive for him. They had to take the Packard down off the blocks and remove all the coverings even for the tires. I guess that's where the perpetuated storage idea of putting them on blocks originates, for the old tubed gum rubber tires? They didn't drive in winter in southern IN both for the snow and poor road conditions. He loses his job at Marmon, etc. and eventually the banker puts him in business as a mechanic and machinist so long as he kept driving for him. A lot of the parts of the day were hand made one off, hence the need for machinist skill. OJT max. And we quibble about "parts"? He ended up getting all the vehicle repair business for the whole county, as word spread of his prowess, which amounted to less the two dozen vehicles! Today, I'm sure there's more on my dead end street than that. No repair shop could survive on that volume today. Being on call to drive the guy down the street in his Packard and not having uber, GPS, etc.? Those were the daze. All no more than 125 years ago. We call it progress, I'm not so sure about that. Some yes, some no.
Posted on: 3/14 11:37
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Red hardener painted blue.
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Like the old directions joke; go past the red house painted blue and turn left at the intersection. They switched colors on the body filler cream hardener across the board some time ago, and I didn't know of it. I don't use much filler, I like metal. I use more MEKP, clear stuff, as I do gelcoat work on the boat, fixing chips, etc. I bought some last year.
I had a few small weld imperfections to cover on an inner fender repair, so I got the old can out, no hardener. All fresh stuff is in the freezer and didn't want to wait on thaw.(BP loses 1% a month at room temp, prevent the filler from setting up) I didn't need much, so I go to the closest parts store down the street and all they got is blue. House brand filler too. I checked across the street, only more blue. I went to NAPA and all they had was blue. I see a pattern here! I bought blue. Conflicting store stories on whether it was the same. You can still get red, but they don't stock it. The chemist in me, decided to check, and it's the right peroxide/CAS. I used unknown tons of this peroxide, installed onsite storage, and we even made it at other locations. Looks like they did change the plasticizer though to ECHA. I suspect it's cheaper to get from China that way. It hardened, so no issue. Nothing worse than having to scrape off gooey sticky filler that didn't set up. The internet "why" story is red bled through to top coat, but I've been using filler for nearly 60 years and never had any issue with bleed through. That's what primer is for. Could be artifact of water borne urethanes, but I don't use those, but doubt the story. More likely some body man messed up. Plus it turned turquoise green, not blue, when I mixed it, so go figure? Maybe we'll have green next?
Posted on: 2/26 17:51
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Re: Body Mounts
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You have to unbolt and raise the body off the frame a tad to change the cushions. ie, take the weight off and space to replace with new ones. If the bolts are rusty, it can be a chore if they don't want to separate. And maybe a two man job, one holding wrench inside, one under. Get them all on with bolt in, lower, and then tighten it back up.
Surprised the outriggers are bad, but the body isn't corroded through as well? Thicker GA steel on the brace. Maybe another surprise waiting for you. And didn't you just have the carpet out? I just replaced all them on my P/U truck and could not use impact they way they were arranged, inaccessible floating cage nuts. I didn't know they had an issue with the urethane and the "baja" construction zone ate them alive and other suspension parts - long story. So you'll need some sort of lift or jack and way to reinforce the body/distribute the load. Usually, you can get them one by one on the outriggers, but since you're changing braces, it's a bit more complex. Times like these one wishes they have a lift or body twirler and take the whole thing up. I couldn't get my twirler under the truck without a major mod to it. Time you get done fixing all the gremlins, you'll have a complete resto.
Posted on: 2/26 17:23
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Re: Water Injection Kits
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If it gets below 32F where you live, you may want to reconsider permanent installation.
Anytime one introduces water into combustion it lowers the combustion temperature by making steam which partially offsets the loss of exhaust gas thermal expansion to produce power. It's an old proven heat balance concept for burning higher BTU fuels so the temperature isn't as hot. We used it to reduce NOx in our HW incinerator. Diesels now come with DEF injection, which is basically the same principle for NOx reduction, only they add urea to prevent the water from freezing. Related: I saw Biden EPA is going to try to approve E15 year round, which they were doing on the sly in summer/low fuel supply periods and not telling. FI vehicles don't experience the issues of ETOH fuels with carbs. Some FI vehicles can't use E15, so check around if it changes where you buy gas this year. The corn farmers are happy, but the environment suffers a tad, so pure poly-tics. Right now there's some refining outages driving gas prices, but crude supply is up, so prices should come down later. I don't expect them to be where we like them, crude is still above $80.
Posted on: 2/26 17:04
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Re: 22nd/23rd Series License Light Lens
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HH is right should be glass and "white", not yellow. Gasket in there too. All that era were still glass. I went through this but don't recall, I think I got one off internet somewhere. I'd have to research and see if there's one here for reference, if you don't find any.
I got turn NOS front signal fixtures from MM but suspect they'd all be gone by now. I'm sure some hoarder has them if they'll let go. That's half the battle in this sports, the "search". Parts unfortunately were never trained to come and find us. Sowing many seeds is a good choice. Leads come and go though.
Posted on: 2/19 13:00
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Re: Generator Terminals and Wire Gauges
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The shop manual should also have the complete wiring diagram and that will have the wire GA and insulation color. I know I got it, not sure in where.
Rules of thumb, The connecting stud is usually sized for the proper terminal connector. If hole is too big or too small to fit, it's the wrong wire GA. Terminals come with a 2 size range typically, like 14-16, 18-20, etc. By good quality and stay away from the cheapo offshore stuff. International EC permits stuff that's "iffy". 6 VDC is typically larger GA due to increased amperage due to lower voltage. V=IR, R constant. Diam determines ampacity so non-linear, R^2 law. Make sure you got a good crimper with the proper dies. Terminals can be obtained from the usual auto electric supplies or carriers. Del City, etc. Even though its nor OEM, I like to shrink wrap each connector. Gives a finished touch and prevents corrosion and puking apart. SAE doesn't permit soldering, but I don't see an issue if you want a better connection, however, residual acid solder flux should be removed. I only do it, if it's a single crimp w/o the insulation crimp. Plus the insulation may discolor and why it helps to shrink wrap.
Posted on: 2/19 12:51
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Re: 22nd Series Custom Eight Steering Wheel
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Quality Restorations, Inc is another west coast guy that's done "P"s. He quoted me about $750 back about 8-9 years ago. Not sure what he gets these days. Nothing is "indexed" in the hobby realm.
There's two methods, one is to repair/make whole with solid epoxy and paint, ie, the epoxy color won't match. Have to have all the trim wings and doo-dads, ie start with a complete wheel. The other is to remove all the factory plastic and put in a mold and recast as original. That's what the best resto do. They have to have a mold for your particular wheel. I started to epoxy repair the one on the '49 and it's a chore when in sad condition. I figured I'd just replace w/ custom steering column/wheel & PS, if it ever gets done. For the Cad, it wasn't that bad, no missing pieces but ugly, I got a 2 tone "Wheelskins" leather cover that you stitch on. They're < $100 /complete kit. Quite nice and affordable and looks good. That could be an easy out here.
Posted on: 2/19 12:35
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Re: '50 Ultramatic Trans Cooler Lines
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Not sure what's going on here. Car isn't running.
Service councilor 26 is listing for '52, not '50. There's a complete Ultramatic (700pps) service bulletin covering all years in the literature archive. Best to start there.
Posted on: 1/25 16:25
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