I think they're cast so I wouldn't try unless damaged badly. They're the same material as the door knobs etc, some plastic probably bakelite or tenite.
I left mine alone they were Ok.
They'd screw off if they come off. Usually they are pushed on over a detent if they aren't cast in. If you pull off, they damage and they won't go back without glue, etc.

Not surprising if you think about it. You need oxygen above 10000 ft, so the ratio of fuel/air has to change going up. Planes adjust, cars aren't equipped but usually tuned for altitude if they reside at elevation.
The compression ratio isn't always correct. Best to calculate or measure as head space varies with design /overhaul. The L flat heads have a larger head space so lower compression by default.
Use it as a guide, if they're all over the map then there's problems, if fairly uniform, good to go. I would not get bent out of shape, if my numbers did match to book values, because you probably did not correct for air pressure, temperature, etc. which you need to do. Log what you got by vehicle and keep for reference next time.

I'd hurry before it gets too steam out. Forecast upper 80s next week in SC. Hope you got vintage air.

https://www.proxibid.com/1939-Packard- ... ollLocationOnCatalog=2080

VanderBrink auctions.
uction location: Olathe Kansas

I don't think that changes the condition of your parts. Talk to the guy that built that one and see what he says.

There's a guy with a '27 Chev rattie over here, and I don't think that car is "safe". Body not sound, lots of sharp metal, etc. I don't know how he got it licensed, but maybe he didn't, used the old title, etc.?
Cool doesn't have to be deadly. They gave me a tough time when I had to get a title for the P as it wasn't running. If I put it back on the street, I'd have to get plates and they'll inspect the work before issuing. So not a given.

Haul it to the machine shop and let them tell you. Internet is only good for some things.
From the pix, looks like there's way more than 60 thou damage on the flat surface and that's about all it'll deck assuming the head is "ok". Too many gaskets and it may not seal and you wanted to "hop" it up put more stress on it. All cylinders will have to be sleeved, you'll be into it for more money than a replacement ans still have a boat anchor motor.
There's usually a reason they sit. Unfortunately, they don't leave notes and often deteriorate further sitting. When it's so old and not working, it's not worth the coin to even store them correctly. Something to watch out for picking projects. Last we discussed value, a decent L8 was only worth in the $500 range, so a much better option and may still have some chop time and expense. A crate motor isn't much more. Might even find a P V8 someone will part.

They still make universal wire sets you cut and crimp yourself. If you have the old wires to measure it's a lot easier to fit.
We found a 283 chevy silicone set that fit the L8 pretty good. The side vs front or rear distributor is the issue here. Some are too long but not excessive.

If it's part of the fender, I don't know of any. But one may adapt something that's out there. Depends how much is left what route to go. You may be able to use a clip or J nut or something available, if there's enough metal left and clearance.
Grafting from a spare fender is the best option. You can weld a screw nut on or use a small weld nut, if can get that small. There's also those crimp nuts that might work but you need the tool and room to get it in.

I'd have to go measure my '49 tank, but I think these are the larger 20 gal, 48-50. I had 17 gal or whatever is smaller in the deluxe and it had the side fill whistle spout, so that doesn't graft on, but could be fitted. I was looking for a rear fill when I decided to make custom, I did not use the old tank.
With a new tank, one could fit the gauge ring from the old tank if it's in decent shape. If I went to all that work, I'd put a modern float and gauge in.
If you're not a metal master, most radiator shops will repair/refit gas tanks if they're cleaned out. If you use Renu, make sure you get a good shop, check their work.

I'd be suspect of any car that was over painted on the chrome as a contract military vehicle. I'd want provenance/paperwork/ID plate.
As one can see the paint chips off chrome easily and not a good thing for black out. WW2 military is out of my wheel house, so leave it to the MVPA guys. The later ones I've seen came with no chrome, if painted OD.

I'm think several tons is about right, no offense...