There's a good frame article in "street muscle magazine newsletter about custom frames. Lays out the + - s of modify v custom. Unfortunately the featured shop (Schartz) only makes for certain big 3 bodies.
https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech-s ... -machine-chassis-decision

When I moved out of Phila area, I just rented space at a storage place down the road from my house. It was very reasonable at the time. I had multiple spaces under roof/3 sides. So you might find one near by and inquire. Some give one months rent free.

Matter of fact I contacted Fatman and they don't build "custom frames", even though it says so on their website. I'm not to far from them. What they offer is there version of specific model frames.
If I have to rework the front and rear, and still have the X, there's not much sense in that. To get rid of the X, I'd have to do side rails, so that's a whole frame. That's why I inquired in the first place, if someone had done before.
I'll wait til the spring show and see if I can find an option, but whatever is stock out there, will have to be modified. I keep working on the body work for now.

For general consumption:
About every dollar range you want.

https://www.redlinestands.com/catalog/ ... &utm_content=Body%20Carts

Most frame rail is in the 3-4" range. Support from below, is best, so no twisting.

It's an "X" frame, and I'm trying to eliminate that. "P" used lever arms (front) in this period and leaf springs(rear) not a good combo for high HP.

I don't have the equipment to build one myself(nor inclination). It's too much surgery to redo the whole frame and I have the body, etc to do.(one man band) I want to finish it, if I do it, this time, in year 6 now. Yeah, it looks easy on TV, but that's a bunch of work compressed to 30 minutes.
I'd rather keep it original and put the L8 back in there.
I guess if I wasn't so "tight" Morrison would be welding one up by now. Cost is probably near the same if you figure in the purchase, tear out, parts, and redo.
I guess I need to really decide if I want that project anymore...

This gets more involved as I go. If I find a S10 chassis or equal, then I'd have to harvest and convert steering and rear end. You can get kits for that, but then you're only using the side rails = 2 lengths of channel. Plus have to relo all the mounts, so I can't just buy one already harvested, powder coated, and ready to go.
I can get a weld-it-yourself kit, but doesn't save much and more time and labor. So I keep coming back to the same spot. No wonder this hasn't progressed!
With all the Nascar shops around here, I can't find a local chassis maker?
I think I'd be better off buying a whole done car and parting this one out / selling as a project or putting back together stock. I'm back working on the Cad in the mean time. Parts as parts go. Flip flop, flip flop...

Nothing different except size to restoring a rusted/stripped out hulk car. The value at the end just doesn't justify the cost. Human's are too sentimental about somethings. Packard isn't coming back.
They're just as likely to raze ALL of Detroit from what's left abandoned. They didn't even have money to replace the lead pipes. I remember that being done in the town I grew up in, in the '60s, so shame on the city govt for letting it sit like that so long. Move on.
These political "wars" of offering enticements and tax breaks to businesses and sports teams, causes all this business movement, zero sum game. Billionaires get richer at taxpayer expense. The same more or less happened when P pulled out of Warren, but the times were much different and that was a strong steel area, not auto, so had plenty of time to "heal". But a shell of it's former self. att he same time there's a migration south and it's not suffering from development "bloat". Quality of life goes down as the traffic jams go up. Zero planning by govt.

All I remember is it didn't just come out as easy as I thought it would, but no tricks. There was a gasket if I recall. I have it in the garage apart if need pix. I had the fender and inner fender off, so it was a lot easier to access. So if trying in place it might be tougher to see/access.

I think I know how to check continuity the reference tells how to check it.
Refer to the instructions on how to check, as written above where I referenced, and Howard presented.
Since it's basically a switch, when it's "OFF" it won't have "continuity". Only when it's "ON", will current pass. GEEZ!

What are you calling "reasonably priced"?
There's rectangular dollies that go under and there's the "twirler" kind like I have
where you can both remove the body from the frame or rotate the body once off the frame. I think I gave about $1600 for that 5 years ago.
Try some place like "auto body tool mart".
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/
look under "car dollies".