It looks to me like one of those little lids that you lift to add a drop of oil to the generator bearings.

I know that you didn't ask, but:

Have you thought about a 12v generator? They are readily available and won't require any modifications other than a new voltage regulator.

I went through the evaluation of if I should convert my car and decided to keep it 6v after some advice from this forum. It is really true that there is nothing wrong with a properly operating 6v system.

I was able to solder on the backside for some of mine but in the end, I too purchased a set on Ebay.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the good advice and pointers, looking a at the post from clipper47, there is more wood in the body than I was aware that existed, but it looks like with some time and practice, replacing it does not seem out of reach.

I think that car on ebay is too nice to "part out" I hope it goes to a good home. I am not ready to buy yet, first I would want to find a home for my 22nd Custom 8 which means I need to finish a few small items I am hopeful to have done by the spring.

BTW, the seller of the 6 on e-bay has a nice 8 listed for just a few dollars more...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1929-packard-partly-restored-w-fresh-motor-and-wood_W0QQitemZ310185210231QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item48387ab177

I am considering selling my 22nd Custom 8 to subsidize the purchase of a pre-war Packard. I am looking for one that needs work and many that are offered for sale do. Everything that I have read is to stay away from cars that need the wood replaced in the doors and on the body. I am intrigued with the idea of completing the woodwork on a car but have not found any articles or blogs with descriptions of what is involved. Is it really that difficult or is is just that most car guys don't have the tools and/or experience working with wood?

Here is a link to an ad on ebay with what i have in mind:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Packard-1927-packard-project-car_W0QQitemZ310185212428QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item48387aba0c


I appreciate any advise and feedback!

Thanks

I swiped an image of a similar pump from the literature that shows the big spring that has me confused. It looks to me that the vacuum works against the spring, causing the pump to engage when the vacuum is the highest.

I am sure that mine is assembled correctly, I may have to take it on faith that the Packard Engineers designed it correctly.

I is bugging me though. Thanks for the specs, I will install the pump on the motor and verify that it works using your data.

Attach file:

---

  (71.88 KB)

I did, actually I have looked at it several times, it gave me the inspiration to tear into mine. Looking it over, the vacuum pump must be a vacuum assist, because for the most part the "big" spring holds the diaphragm in a neutral position. It looks to me that if the engine vacuum is large enough to pull the spring, then the pump would "kick in". I am going to guess that my hypothesis that the pump was meant for full throttle operation is wrong. The pump is meant for when the engine is idle and the vacuum is the strongest. Must be a smooth idle thing.

Thanks,

Hi Guys,

I am in the process of rebuilding the combination fuel / vacuum pump for my 22nd Custom 8. While on the bench, I can tell that the fuel pump is working. When I push down on the lever, I get suction on the "in" and pressure on the "out" but the vacuum portion seems to just "sit there". Investigating, I found that the diaphragm spring is pushing the rod all the way in such a way that the levers take no action.

Is my test valid? In the back of my head I am thinking that maybe some other conditions have to be met before the vacuum pump starts working. (full throttle passing a car in the rain) It is almost as if the spring is on the wrong side. (it's not, I checked)

Any clues or advice?

The transmission adapter company offers one for a Hudson 308. Didn't Hudson use Packard engines? The photo looks very close.

http://www.transmissionadaptors.com/Hudson308.htm

The knob on mime is held with a 1/16" allen grub screw. Loosen the screw and it would come off. BTW, I had mine working for about the same amount of time as you did before I broke it as well. I looked into some aftermarket antennas but in the end I settled with crimping a 12" solid piece into the body.