it's possible that on the side that pulls, that the primary and secondary shoes are installed incorrectly by reversing their positions.. I had that problem some years ago and that was the culprit.

If that's the washer/gasket that came with the plug, then yes, I used it.

My 1946-1950 service manual only has engine specs up to the 22nd series, and my 1950 is a 23rd series. According to the engine specs in the book, a 22nd series with the 288 CID inline 8 has a spark plug gap setting of .025"-.030"

I hate to assume, but it would be the same gap for the 23rd series with the 288? Thanks!

I have a 1950 8 sedan with the 288 CID inline 8 engine. I put in new spark plugs in two years ago, and upon inspection today the central electrode on five of the plugs are simply "gone."

The plugs were correctly gapped when I put them in. I don't know if the auto parts store gave me the right plugs, they were model Autolite 308

My question is, what spark plugs have any of you used with success, and would recommend?

Many thanks!

Howard,

Thank you! I really appreciate your advice, which was dead on! My car has the stock tapered bezel. Had a new key made with spares. Again, thank you.

Lost the one key to my 1950 8 sedan. Now I have to remove the lock cylinder from the switch, but I was told one cannot do that without the key. SO I have to remove the switch assembly which contains the lock cylinder so that locksmith can fabricate a new key. Any trick to the removal of the switch? And yes, I'll have many spare keys made!

I have read the posts, but I am unclear as to actually polarize the 6V positive ground system. How exactly is this done? At this time I'm having to recharge the battery after I drive and the voltage reg is new and the the generator is good.

Well, this was an ordeal from hell. After working on classics for 25 years, I was shocked to find I could not remove the rear drums, hence this series of posts. I took it to my mechanic, an expert on old cars. Despite using three different pullers, a torch, a hammer and pry bar, no luck on removing the drums. The mechanic said I need a really strong puller, one he does not have.

So I took it to a garage where they only service semi trucks and earth moving equipment. They tried using a heavy puller used on semi trucks---and it bent!!! They then had their welding shop fabricate a "super" heavy duty puller, which worked. No damage to the car at all.

Needless to say, I no longer feel so bad about not being able to remove the rear drums while on my driveway! Thank you for all of your advice, I do appreciate it.

interesting! Where do you hit the puller?

My 1950 Deluxe 8 needs the rear passenger side brake drum removed. I couldn't get it off, so I brought it in to a mechanic experienced with old cars.

He's tried several different pullers, including the three prong dog bone type, applied heat as well, and banging. He said the drum seems to have never been pulled off.

Any suggestions of what can be tried next? This is the only thing keeping my car from being drivable, as the wheel cylinder is leaking.

The mechanic said cutting would be a last resort, but I would hope not to do that if at all possible.

Many thanks.