Yeah, apparently it's an old thread style that seems to have been discontinued around the 1950s-60s.

Believe it or not, there was also a 4-36 screw as well. Most of the ones I found were for Lionel Trains.

Definitely not 4-40.

I checked eBay and found a few but they either have the wrong head type, wrong metal, wrong color, wrong length, etc. They're supposed to be 1/4" long brass flathead screws with a "flat fillister" head style. See the picture below.

I wound up buying some round headed steel ones, painted black just to hold the wires in-place until I can find the correct ones.

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Hoping someone can help me... I'm looking for a source for the small #4-32 brass screws that hold the wires in the connector where the horn's harness connects to the main harness.

See picture below. The screw goes in the hole in the middle.

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MY BAD!!! I thought this connector went to the headlight when in fact it goes to the HORN!

Note to self: Make sure I know exactly what I'm talking about BEFORE asking folks for help!

I'll make a new post with the correct title.

You could have an issue if you pull it out more than 1/8". I recommend that you disconnect both fuel lines, remove the fuel pump and then pull out the fuel pump rod. You can now pull the cover out as far as you want with out worrying about the fuel pump rod falling into the crank case.

I wish I knew why too. All I can tell you is to keep beating the drum. Have you tried posting this question on other sites?

Scott, you must have ESP because I was wondering the exact same thing yesterday! The 903 I'm working on idles beautifully and responds perfectly when I rev the engine, but as soon as it's put in gear and you try to drive it, it dies after a few seconds. However, if I turn on the electric pump it'll drive ok, but it obviously runs very rich. Couple of things to note...

1. I just rebuilt the fuel pump and it's operating perfectly (zero fuel leaks and no air is getting in).

2. The eccentric that pushes the fuel pump rod up & down is worn down approx 1/16". From the factory, they're supposed to lift it 5/16" but mine only travels 1/4" (.240" to be exact). So I acknowledge that this could be the problem but before I go through the enormous process of replacing the eccentric, I'd like to ensure the carburetor is adjusted properly so I can rule it out as the cause (or significantly contributing) to the problem.

That being said, I spent hours online and the only thing I found was what the T-Handle at the bottom is and how to adjust it. It's the air fuel mixture screw and the best adjustment procedures I found are contained within the 1930 and 1931 Owners Manuals. You can find them here on the Packardinfo website.

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Hoping someone can help me... I'm looking for a source or at least the dimensions for the tiny screws that hold the raw wires in place at the connector where the headlight harness meets up with the main harness.

See picture below. The screw goes into the hole in the middle.

If someone could post a picture of one, that would be great too.

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The threads in the starter housing stripped (there's a little "thread meat" left) and I was wondering if anyone knew what size is the bolt and what threat pitch is it? Before I drill it out and tap it for the next size up, I wanted to see if anyone out there makes a slightly wider bolt to make up for the stripped portion of the threads.