489387 is the theft #. I was hoping to find the original dealership based on the info on the key and data plate. I can go back two owners to supposedly the original owner, now deceased. It belonged to a funeral director in Iowa and no one in the area remembered him not owning it. He died at 101, 6 years ago. He donated the car to the local car club and I got it from the last guy who raised his hand at the auction.


A dealership directory would be wonderful.

The brass fitting on the end of my master cylinder has been lost. Where can I find a replacement? Kanters is out of stock.

I have an early 1939 Packard six, SN 1282-8929, delivery date on the firewall plate is Mar 19, 1939, it and the ignition key are stamped GWYN. Where was this car sold and if possible, to whom?

All was well on the resurfacing, plenty of valve clearance.

Thanks, Howard. Will do. Appreciate the help.

Thanks, Howard. Will do. Appreciate the help.

I'm no mecahanic so>>> 1950 series 23, 288, recently had a major overhaul and reassembled with very close supervision from a highly experienced mechanic. Ran well for the first three hundred miles, although a bit on the hot side. Recently developed a miss, comp test shows zippo on cylinder 5. Pulled head, appears gasket didn't seal properly despite torqueing and redoing same. Had head replained, machinist said prior shop didn't do a good job. Putting it back together w/new hea gasket and retesting compression very soon. Anything I can check b/4 resetting the head. If I have no compression again, why? What is the next move? Car has 39K miles on odometer but suffered from to much no use.

Correcting my "no fuel" stall problem. Found that the gas pickup tube in the tank cracked or holed. As soon as the tank got below 1/2 full, the problem showed intermittently, worsening as the fuel level dropped. Local radiator shop is sweating in a new pickup tube this week. JUst one more thing to check for a problem.

It charges at idle, needing only an initial tap on the accelerator to bring it to the initial charge reading, then it continues charging at idle. I don't know if that is perfect but it certainly works for me.

Just changed out my fried generator for a 6 V alternator and yes, it doesn't charge immediately. Rev up slightly and all is well and it continues to charge.