I got a new pressure switch, and I’ll have to look into the relays when I get back. I have family traveling in May, so getting relays later should be ok.

Quick update. I was able to buy a complete rebuilt unit from Pgh Ultramatic. So there will be no microcontroller project from me this time around. Thanks William, and everyone else who helped me out with this!
John

I’m in Boston and upstate New York.

Thank you all for your comments. There are a lot of things to consider. I am trying to get in touch with Mr PushButton as well as Mike Dulinski. The original solution that came with the car would be great, let’s see what that looks like price wise. At the same time, my mind is putting together an alternative solution that could be generally useful to others in my situation, or those that would like to use the push buttons on a gm transmission. I think I have a possible solution that could be plug and play. I’ll let you all know either way.
I just arrived in the US for ten days, so now is my chance to pick up parts while I’m here.

My 56 Patrician has been converted to use a floor shifter instead of the original push button shifting mechanism. The shifting motor, worm gear, actuator setup has been completely removed, and a cable has been installed, which has been routed through the floor under the front seat to a large and ugly B&M floor shifter.




I would like to remove the floor shifter, and get the pushbuttons working again. I haven't been able to find the missing original parts, so I have come up with a plan to use a microcontroller and linear actuator with potentiometer to get the buttons back in action. The pushbuttons are still on the steering column, and I have tested for continuity in the cables and determined that the buttons work. My plan is to use an optocoupler circuit to go down from 12v to 3.3v for the button inputs,, and I have a few relays set up so that I can turn on the reverse lights for backing up and enable engine start when in park. I plan on using a ESP32 microcontroller for the main logic. I haven't decided if I will install the linear actuator under the seat, since the cable has been pulled there, or if I will get a water proof one, that I would install directly on the shift lever of the transmission.

Here are my questions:

1) How long does it take to shift from P to R with the original setup?
2) How much force should be required to move the shift lever on the side of the transmission? Am I looking for a 30lb or 300lb linear actuator?

Thanks,
John

Attach file:

---

  1956-packard-patrician-55.jpeg (207.99 KB)

Quick update. I was able to connect the stabilizer rods by buttoning everything else up and lowering the car onto its tires and turning on the torsion level to straighten out the car. Then the rods went in just fine.

I am reinstalling the rear axle on my 1956 Patrician. The issue that I am running into is that the rear stabilizer rods do not line up anymore because the rear links have spread out.
The manual calls for using the Support Arm Positioning Tool J-6386. I didn't happen to have that, so I used a ratchet strap to hold things together while the rear axle was out. The weight of the car is on axle stands placed under the rear links. I am looking for suggestions on how to push the rear links closer together. I have loosened up the u-bolts, so that the links could move. Would it be safe to pry agains the inside of the wheel hub?
I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
John

Thanks for the advice. Looks like both paints are available.

Sounds like painting is the way to go. I went back and looked at the markings, and for all I know it might have been added later. Looking at it again, it's pretty insignificant.
Here's a pic.

I have removed the complete rear axle including the housing from the back of my 1956 Patrician. It had a bit of surface rust, so I sanded it down, and used phosphoric acid gel to remove the rust. Now I am trying to decide if I should paint it or protect it another way (maybe oil).

What did the rear axle housing and diff look like when it came from the factory? Based off of pictures in the service manual, it was black, but was it painted?

I think a matt black paint would probably look clean, however I am a little bit hesitant, because the paint would cover up the original yellow markings from the factory that are on the housing. I don't drive the car in winter or rain, so I was thinking that another way to keep it from rusting, would be to heat it up and cover it with oil.

Thoughts?