Pricing is unfortunately way out of wack.

If it were a 2-seat roadster, Phaeton, 4dr all-weather convertible, maybe it would be worth 15k in my opinion. Knowing you'll spend, Paint 25K, upholstery 20K, engine 20K, misc. tires, wiring, chroming 20K, all for a 60K car. which by the way is a declining market. His heirs will think it's worth 20K also. It's all unfortunate.

I have a few thoughts and cannot confirm that my car is all original, but the coil is different and mounted to the side of the water jacket cover. I'd love comment on whether that's original or not. This car may be original on this point. My coil is a round, later model unit, and is atop the engine next to the distributer. The upper water neck is pointed straight up, vs mine is pointed at the radiator. Lastly, older motors tend to leak, but an oily or wet area above the valve adjustment covers are concerning. Check to find out if it's using water. a cracked cylinder block can be expensive to find and replace.

Also a warm oil sample will tell you a lot.

What area are you? I have done my 35' 1202 engine at a shop in Campbell, CA.

I have a purchased and received a total gasket set from Max Merritt for my 1935 std 8 1202. It was missing only a few gaskets that I had to make. Example, I had to make the gaskets for the oil cooler and oil lines for the filter assembly. I do admit that the set was old and 2 gaskets had shrunk, for example the oil pan and the water jacket cover on the driver's side. Good luck!

I have found all the parts. I'm hoping to start the fresh engine up and go through a break in over this next 3 weeks or so. Fingers crossed. Thanks Packard Information.

Great input from all. I'm chasing down a 2 leads of maybe and 1 is definitely no. Packard Info is a great resource.

During my overhaul, I lost a few parts. I'm hoping someone here could help.

1) Plate covering the oil cooler. I have the cast oil cooler that caries the water and the interior cooler that caries the oil. What is missing is the plate the holds the oil cooler inside the cast iron water jacket. Iv'e attached a picture of the cast oil cooler I have.

2) Ignition coil holder. My engine has a single coil. I have the coil and the bolts to hold it down, just not the 2 bolt hole bracket.

Thank you all who have a lead on these parts.

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Update. I have a 2nd engine (that I bought for the cylinder block) that I verified the Cam in it, is bone stock original. It checks out at all points noted in the Cam shaft timing specifications.

So, What I'm learning is, the guy/Mechanic that took the money from the wealthy Dr. (Surgeon) who paid to bring this car to very high point standard, modified the cam to what the mechanic thought would be better than what the Packard Engineers, after all their background, testing and training, could have done.

I have other post on here about the other bright ideas the mechanic thought were acceptable rebuild protocols. I have receipts for about 10K in 1991 when this overrated engine builder stole from the Dr.

So, be sure to know your engine rebuilder and if he's a bail wire and duct repair guy or a master mechanic.

Well at least it lasted about 7k miles and 30 years.

I have a 6-volt pump in series and parallel with a normal fuel line.

I installed my pump with a switch used primarily for assisting if the car has sat for a while. After starting, I typically turned the electric pump off. BTW, when the pump has built up pressure, they typically don't make noise. They really only make noise while building pressure.

I also have a direct feed with a check valve mounted parallel to the pump so that the mechanical pump can pull through the check valve and allow the car to run normally. The check valve keeps the electric fuel pump from sending fuel back to the tank in the parallel line.

I did all of this for 2 reasons.
#1 I didn't want to for feed my mechanical pump and possibly cause a seal in the mechanical pump to fail and allow fuel into the engine.
#2 I didn't want to over pressurize, so I would have needed a pressure regulator, but that wouldn't have relived my worries of #1
#3 I like redundancy with a solid backup.

I used to have turned on the pump on long uphill pulls on my tired engine. I hope the rebuilt engine doesn't need the electric pump.

I have been reading archive documents for Cam chain timing my 35 std 8. I have a document for a 14th series. I found the Archives here to match, the following.

#1 Inlet opens at 30 deg BTDC.
#1 Exhaust closes 30 deg ATDC.
and the 1 dot on each of the Cam and Crank to line up when #1 piston is at TDC and confirmed by the flywheel marking.

My Cam that came with my original engine and "as installed"
this is what I have and my results.
#1 Inlet opens 2 deg BTDC
#1 Exhaust closes 5 deg BTDC.
And I have 2 dots on each of the crank and cam.

My question is
Has my cam been reground incorrectly during a prior horrible rebuild in the early 90's or Does anyone have a document that confirms what I have found as being normal and correct.

Now the car ran good as a "parade motor" but I had nothing to compare it to for power.

I do have a second motor that I believe had never been molested. I could pull its Cam and install it and see what its timing is, but that will require several steps backwards and several hours.

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I have read your original post, and your follow up answers. I am reading that after a reprime of the Carburetor it will restart but not run for long and that the fuel bowl is getting gas.

Remember it only takes 3 things to make that engine run, gas, air and a spark.

You can confirm the air intake is clear and remove that from the list early on, unless you sucked up a rag (it has happened to me).

Remove all spark plugs and reconnect them to the wires, laying them on the head grounding them. run the starter (with fire extinguisher at hand) and look for a good blue (ideally) or any color for that matter, spark. If you have spark, let's look at how much fuel you are getting and how far is it getting.

If no spark, let's go backwards through the ignition and look for something grounding. A condenser generally doesn't work sometimes and not others. They generally fail. I guess they can be extremely weak, but I've never got a car restarted with a failing one. Look at the points, but if a spring or short has happened, adding more gas will not temporarily fix a grounding or faulty ignition system.

Carb; others correct me, this is an up draft? correct? You may be getting it to the Carb but, are all jets and passageways clear. With Plugs back in place, remove the supply feed to the carb, with the starter turning just a few times, are you filling a baby food jar after 2 or 3 revolutions? if so look to the Carb for some blockage.

If the car sat for some time, then you took it out, I would suspect a blockage or particle has moved from the tank to a main jet.

Do you have an aftermarket fuel filter installed? if there is blockage, a total rinse is recommended, a filter would be a plus next.

My 2cents and for what it's worth.

Keep us informed on what you find and by all means, others, please correct me.