Tks for the tips

My 49 Standard Eight had an intermittent issue with the under-dash courtesy lights. With the driver's door open I could get the lights to work by wiggling the wire coming out of the door. Suspecting a loose connection or bad door switch, I removed the switch (two screws) and discovered corrosion on the switch contacts. After cleaning the contacts and the blade connector on the wire with sandpaper and steel wool, along with the switch mounting flange and door frame to ensure a good positive ground connection, the problem is solved.

A web search for a replacement door switch netted no results. I would appreciate any feedback on potential sources for these switches.

The radiator would require a pressure test to identify where the leak(s) are. It is a candidate for refurb and then installation in a project car or used as a spare. I installed a new aluminum radiator and auxiliary 12vdc pusher fan that runs off a separate 12.8v 30A battery.

After 75 years it is time to R&R the head gasket on my 1949 Packard Standard 8 that I bought last year. The engine was losing coolant, white smoke out the exhaust pipe, and I suspected coolant in the oil pan when I changed the oil last week and discovered some copper colored goo in the bottom of my catch bucket. thinking a former owner used stop leak.

There is no obvious sign of a "blown" gasket but several of the nuts on the cylinder head studs were not torqued real good. The work is being done by a fellow car club member and owner of the United Motors Garage in Bonham, Texas they specialize in antique and classic car repairs and restorations.

Also have the radiator I removed for leaks in the core. Make me an offer, and you probably want to pick it up because shipping will be expensive.

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If you are looking for the whole assembly, I can't help you. But, if you want a metal oil bath filter with the screen mesh I have one.

My electric fuel pump works great on my 49 Standard 288 as the only pump being used.

Try disconnecting the fuel line from the pump and pour gas down the line into the carb and see if it still leaks between the needle and the seat. Just because you had the carburetor rebuilt doesn't mean it was done correctly.

Good tip, tks for sharing

I appreciate that you are sharing your seat rebuild project and the photos. Without doing a quick web search, I suspect that the burlap covering the springs acts as protective barrier, so the metal springs don't wear through the padding and seat upholstery. My driver side front seat has a compression issue compared to the passenger side. After looking at the spring configuration on your seat I was wondering if cutting some high-density foam to fit down inside the coils would provide addition support. And cover the bottom of the frame with a sheet of plywood. FYI, the Kanter.com catalog has seat rebuilding kits.

Mine averages 10.42 Nautical Miles per gallon.

Tks for the comments and suggestions. The outside temp on the test day was 79F and on flat ground.

I didn't mess with the thermostat and have no idea what the orifice diameter is. When I cut the old hose off I was pleased that the neck on the housing was not corroded and falling apart.

The 6 volt fuel pump mounting location was selected after reading other reviews covering mounting locations and pushing vs drawing fuel. I don't like crawling under cars anymore. The pump draws fuel just fine and doesn't flood the carburetor at idle. The OEM fuel/vacuum pump is still mounted with the fuel line bypassed. May pull it and rebuild same this winter.

Fabricating a fan shroud is a good idea to enhance cooling and safety while working on the engine while it is running. During the radiator installation I painted the inside tips of the fan white to make it more visible.

I didn't consider repairing the OEM radiator after talking to a friend that paid $900 to fix the one on his 48 Buick and it took six weeks.

I'll put the OEM radiator up for sale when I am satisfied that the new one is meeting my expectations.