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https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=262569

Overheating issues are challenging to resolve. Your car doesn't have the same 288 engine that 49 has but these are the things I have done to my car that finally solved the problem with overheating. Replaced the radiator, radiator cap, hoses, fan belt, installed an aftermarket temp gauge, flushed the block, inspected and tested the thermostat, installed a pusher 12vdc fan in front of the radiator (powered by a separate battery), replaced the head gasket that upon removal I discovered it was leaking at one cylinder. All of this helped control the temperature, but the engine still ran too hot in stop and go traffic. Finally, Last month I installed a shutoff valve on the heater hose coming out of the top of the block. The valve prevents hot coolant from circulating through the heater core and returning to the water pump and bypassing the radiator. During test drives in Texas 95F afternoons the engine now indicates 190-195F at 50 mph, and 210F at stop lights without the aux fan running. I am also considering fabricating a fan shroud.

On my 49 Standard Eight, with a 288, I have been fighting an overheat issue as well. Thus far I have replaced the radiator, upper and lower hoses, fan belt, head gasket, installed a 12vdc pusher fan powered by a separate battery, installed a heater hose shutoff valve and an aftermarket temperature gauge. The shutoff valve has made the most improvement in the stop and go traffic temperature readings.

Try installing a shutoff valve on the heater hose return line that goes the water pump. This line has hot coolant that bypasses the radiator.

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For sale - Radiator I pulled out of my 1949 Standard 8 with the 288 cu.in. engine. It will need a pressure test and probably recored, Make me an offer. Pickup in Dallas, Tx area. Text 661478*#^%

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Tks for the tips

My 49 Standard Eight had an intermittent issue with the under-dash courtesy lights. With the driver's door open I could get the lights to work by wiggling the wire coming out of the door. Suspecting a loose connection or bad door switch, I removed the switch (two screws) and discovered corrosion on the switch contacts. After cleaning the contacts and the blade connector on the wire with sandpaper and steel wool, along with the switch mounting flange and door frame to ensure a good positive ground connection, the problem is solved.

A web search for a replacement door switch netted no results. I would appreciate any feedback on potential sources for these switches.

The radiator would require a pressure test to identify where the leak(s) are. It is a candidate for refurb and then installation in a project car or used as a spare. I installed a new aluminum radiator and auxiliary 12vdc pusher fan that runs off a separate 12.8v 30A battery.

After 75 years it is time to R&R the head gasket on my 1949 Packard Standard 8 that I bought last year. The engine was losing coolant, white smoke out the exhaust pipe, and I suspected coolant in the oil pan when I changed the oil last week and discovered some copper colored goo in the bottom of my catch bucket. thinking a former owner used stop leak.

There is no obvious sign of a "blown" gasket but several of the nuts on the cylinder head studs were not torqued real good. The work is being done by a fellow car club member and owner of the United Motors Garage in Bonham, Texas they specialize in antique and classic car repairs and restorations.

Also have the radiator I removed for leaks in the core. Make me an offer, and you probably want to pick it up because shipping will be expensive.

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If you are looking for the whole assembly, I can't help you. But, if you want a metal oil bath filter with the screen mesh I have one.