thanks, new hose and clamps and sanding and a 1/4 drive rachet (had tried 3/8's but couldn't get it on the clamp) worked. No leaks. The temp got up to 180, cooled a bit and returned to 180 but I didn't see the thermostat open. Top of thermostat housing did get hot. At least the block won't crack in the cold winter. Thanks for the support.

'37 120c. just a coolant change, but was suspicious of the picot of breaking,so removed the radiator hose from the radiator and head. The coolant leaks from both places not under pressure now. I have cleaned the inside of the hose as it had rust stuck to it. I did sand the outside of the lower radiator connection with very worn out sandpaper (didn't want to overdo it). What sandpaper or device do you suggest I use on these connections to clean them? Not easy to get to the lower radiator connection. While the hose looks good (not soft or cracked) maybe a new one would seal better?

Thank you, I like your suggestions and will try them first. Thanks for the visual too.

creative! but doable, I shall keep this in mind. Thank you.

1937 120c. The car is new to me. The horn does not work. There isn't a wire coming off of the bottom of the horn relay to the horn button. I want to hopefully find the other end of the wire at the horn button. I've pushed and tried rotating the horn button with my thumbs, hands... no luck. Cannot rotate the button. Any suggestions on how to exert enough pressure to rotate it?
Also if anyone knows/knew Charles Mobley, it was his car, why isn't there a wire coming off the relay? Doesn't Texas require a horn for inspection?
thanks,
Sue