Howard:

The swap was of the gauge only, the sender was a Kanter new. Maybe they shipped the wrong one? Can I tell one from another? It takes a while for it to come up to "H", not immediate. Thanks for help.

Walt

Guys, need your help. Problem calls for smarter guys than me.

'48 Super with 327 engine. Rebuilt less than 5k miles ago. Has had a problem recently with the factory temperature gauge slowly going to peg on the "H". Have installed an auxillary gauge which shows the temperature to actually be between 180 and 190. Assume, therefore, it is a gauge issue, which is what we thought all along.

Have changed out the gauge with one removed from a salvage dash, same problem. Have changed sending unit, same problem.

Does anyone have any ideas what else might cause this? Is this gauge grounding sensitive such that corrosion somewhere around the dash could cause elevated readings?

Maybe two bad gauges, don't know. Anyone out there you trust to rebuild one of these and calibrate it correctly?

I know that these gauges are not real accurate, but it doesn't do any good to have a gauge that goes to "H" pegged every time. When I do have a problem I won't know until too late.

Thanks!

There's a '58 Hawk for ssale on ebay with S/N 58LS1131. This serial puts it as a '58 Sedan, the Hawk S/N should be a 58LY I think. Has anybody got any thoughts as to whether this is a legitimate Hawk, or are people converting Sedans to Hawks? It has the supercharger, and the body sure looks like a Hawk. Could be in the final days Studebaker wasn't following the designated serial prefixes. HELP!

Any luck?

Walt

Thanks, let me know.

Walt

Owen_Dyneto:

Did you ever get the 1936 Packard 12 manual imaged? I've never received a copy. Let me know, and thanks.

Walt Haskins

Thanks for the help guys.

Our block was cast in 1939, so I am going to assume that it does not have the oil supply hole tapped as in the 22nd series and later engines to supply oil to the No. 1 and No. 8 camshaft bearings.

Looks like our choices are to either find the oil regulation valve that our block is missing, or alternatively to tap the holes which were apparently drilled in the 22nd and later series engines to supply oil to No. 1 and No. 8 camshaft bearings.

Does anyone know where we could buy the oil regulation valves? As I stated, Kanter had no idea of what we were talking about.

Alternatively, can someone look at a 22nd or later 356 block and describe exactly where the oil supply holes were drilled and their diameter?

Again, thanks for the help.

Walt

My engine rebuilder from Connecticut has called and he needs help.

Every one of these engines he has rebuilt in the past has two parts my core is missing, and which were also missing from the engine that was in the car and which had a cracked block.

Both of these parts are in the "lifter oil gallery". One is what he thinks is a "metering valve" in the rear of the oil gallery. He describes it as a round piece with step downs that slides, and has a hole through it.

The second he describes as a "pressure regulator assembly" at the front of the oil gallery. Surprisingly, he had a friend check a 1950 Custom, which uses the same engine, and both of these parts were missing from that engine also.

Does anyone know what these would be and the correct nomenclature and part numbers? Does anyone know whether they are really needed in the engine? And finally, if they are really needed, does someone know where we can find them? He says he called Kanter, and they didn't know what he was talking about.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the very valuable information. I had resolved to buy a mirror set from Kanter, but they were out of stock. I was more than puzzled, because the mirrors we have Kanter had already told me were correct (from looking at photos) but they clearly didn't fit the molding. I had resolved that the bases must have been slightly smaller to fit. Your spacer answers the question as to how our mirrors could be correct, but not fit, and we can easily make the spacer.

All right, I figured out how to downsize the pictures and I've now uploaded them to the original post. The base, shown between the two screws which are visible, is too wide to fit into the channel between the raised portion of the trim. Someone has welded up where the original screw holes are in the trim, it appears from looking underneath, but you can't see it from the outside, so I assumed it had been welded up and then chromed. Do I have:

1. Wrong mirrors (Kanter looked at photos and said they were right)?

2. Wrong base (if so, the base of the arm, which then screws into the base, would overlap the base on top and bottom)?

3. Wrong trim (as trim has had screw holes welded up, this would seem unlikely)?

Thanks for help.

Walt