I'm waiting on the driveshaft and my conversion to a GM transmission will be done ('52 327).
The adapter (from Bendtsens) went in very easily. Just a slight modification to the crossmember and shifting linkage...I fabricated a mount further forward and floor mounted the shifting linkage.
Bendtsens were great to work with and produce a quality piece of machined aluminum. It comes with everything needed including a GM high tourque starter (I converted to 12 volt a long time ago). They started producing these adapters in '09 and have sold 3 to date (mine being the third and only one they sold this year).
The weight savings was 135 lbs!
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the driveshaft will be in before I put my car up for winter storage....it spit snow yesterday!

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas on this....I've decided to upgrade to a GM automatic.

#1 is the correct way to mount the distribution tube.
I'm not sure why some holes are larger than others but If it were me I would not enlarge them.

Thanks Ross, any ideas on where to get the replacement springs? I called Kanter and they suggested Ultramatic Dynamics but he said he'd never encountered that before. If its not that and is one of the things that Tim Cole suggested am I going to damage my transmission by running it a few more times this year before I repair it...winters coming soon in Vt so it'll be put up shortly.

Thanks BigKev, that seems to be about the best explanation I've heard yet. When I was driving it (pre-torque) I could almost predict when it was going to boilover. When in fact maybe it wasn't actually overheating (as one might expect when it overflows the overflow bottle) but building pressure and blowing by. The tempurature gauge never read accurately before (I assumed it was faulty) but now reads where it should be.
On another strange problem/fix,I have a Porsche 912 that kept on cooking generators, I tried everything to fix the issue...long story short it was the Optima battery...it made the generator work too hard to charge it...I replaced it with a regular 12volt and all was well. I guess something (almost) defy explanation.

When the idea of retorquing the head to stop my boiling over problem was presented to me I too was sceptical. I had tried every temperature thermostat and even tried using a restrictor plate, removed and inspected the distribution tube, checked and rechecked the timing and also went as far as installing an after market aluminum crossflow radiator (rated for 400hp) I wasn't loosing coolant, the head and block were planed and I would never consider using an old gasket. We used the factory recommended specs when tightening everything.
I had given up and had put the car in storage but thought I had nothing to lose and gave it a try.
From what I have gathered an air bubble can form blocking the flow of coolant causing overheating/boilover.
I wish I could better explain it but I have since taken the car on extended rides in fairly warm temperatures and have had no problems since.
It worked for me.

With regard to the overheating problem at the beginning of this thread.
My motor was also rebuilt ('52 327)...the distribution tube was clean..the water pump and radiator new and all specs were adhered to and still it overheated (boiled over).
I retourqued the head to as tight as I could with a 1/2" ratchet and the problem was solved. An old timer told me they used to do it with an impact! (following the proper sequence of course)
It worked for me...good luck!

Thanks HH56....the service manual seems to have provided some answers...or at the very least it got me in the ball park.
Thanks again!

Thanks for getting back to me,
The noise definetly is coming from the transmission. Its much louder than spark ping. Maybe a better description would be the sound of a marble in a small tube...shaken violently. It seems to be a valve of some sort fluttering (quite loud under acceleration).
On another unrelated note...I was having problems with overheating (I could idle all day long but under power it would boil over). The motor was rebuilt to proper tourque specs...the radiator and waterpump were new.
I re-tourqued the head (using the proper sequence of course) as tight as I could by hand and it solved the problem...maybe this will help someone in the future.

I have a '52 ultramatic that we put a rebuild kit in (from Kanter Auto). Everything worked great but after about 300 miles I started to get a clacking (best described as if you shook a PCV quickly back and forth...but a bit louder).
This only happens when you accelerate. Its noticable when just cruising along (and accelerating) but VERY noticable when going up any grade.
Thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.