well most of the time i use the electric fuelpump for startup, i dont know what psi it has, or any regulator, but i dont use it for driving.
I shut it down when the engine runs steady. it will take a while to know the packard, i only have this beauty for 5 weeks now, and the owners before me didnt seem to do much maintenance, could be the mechanical pump has too much pressure?

i live in the wrong country :( . if i would live there i would have saved as many odies as my garage could take, or land. if you google on pics of car graveyards, you see the most beautifull cars sitting, rusting away like noone gives a ...., its a shame. i would go for the chalenger tho.

Hi Cordcomp, well i`m still fighting with it, took it appart checked the float level once more and checked the new needle and seat for anything sticking in it, assembled it again, .. but still with the same results, choke have to be very loose and half way open to get the engine started.
i also have a electrical fuel pump, maybe thats a problem too, wonder why they have done that, thinking of rebuilding the mechanical fuel pump. also i will replace all vacuum hoses i have seen some where a litle loose, old and dried up. lets hope that helps a litte.

after all that work it better works! if not.. i will have to find me some new carb.

good luck with yours too!


pfff i was looking for someone to renew the chrome on my bumpers... they dare to ask 2000 euro!!!

Thanx for al the information, i havnt removed the throttle plates when i rebuild the carb, just gave it all a good cleaning, and the float level was set as shown in the manual, even the needle and seat are renewed, so i would go for the vacuum then. When i set the choke valve spring to the specifications, by turning it clockwise to the arrow, the choke valve is very tight, i have to push it open with my finger in order to fire up the engine, but from the amount of pressure u have to use to open the valve, i would say u need alot of vacuum to get that done. when u release the valve it shuts and the engine stops. thats why i have now set the valve very loose till the valve is half open from the start. seem to work for now, but still uses too much fuel.

hi All i have rebuild my WGD carb with a new kit, bcz it was running about 5 galons on one mile , i set it to all specs.( float etc.) but some things still dont run that good.
for instance the engine only runs and idles with the choke set very loose, it has to be half open to get the engine started, also the engine doesnt react on the 2 screws for idle mixture, i can turn the screws clockwise till they are shut, and still the engine idles at the same speed.

could the choke problem be due a bad vacuum? (it wont open when i set the choke valve to the manual specifications)

the engine runs tho, smooth idle, and also runs good at high speed, still drinking more then i do.

but i dont think its normal for the choke valve to be open all the time, anyone any ideas where to look at?

Thanx Owen, well i got the machines to do alot, lets hope the damage isnt that big, but for every problem there is a solution i like to say.

Hello Bigkev, have u ever made that how to rebuild the carb? i am planning to rebuild the carb this weekend, just got my kit from te carb doctor, bcz my carb was leaking at the throttle linkage, and engine used too much fuel and caughs out black smoke sometimes. was hoping u got some tips for rebuilding or reassembling. well i was thinking to just use it as a daily driver, but ... i always feel the need to restore, like i did with several cars such as a ford bb truck from `33, beetles, `68 jag, porsche 356, and morris series 8. well this Packard is completely new for me :) i hope i can knock on ur door sometimes for knowledge.

Hi otgdy, well the switch have to work with 12v also, my clipper is also converted to 12v, the switch doesnt contain any electrical parts, just brass contacts. Something could block the hole of the switch, ( that`s what my problem was) try to take it out and clean the switch with alcohol and blow the hole dry with some air pressure, when it still doesnt work, a renewal of the switch will do the job.

Today i flushed the brake lines, i dipped my finger into the brakefluid resevoir and found some peices of jelly sticking to my finger, thats no good, maybe they switched from dot 5 to dot 4 without cleaning the system first.
well i cleaned it fully with alcohol, and filled it up with fresh dot 4, now the brakes work perfectly, except the brakelight, its prolly stuffed with that jelly.. i`m still waiting for that switch to arrive. but i`m glad the brakes dont feel like a rock anymore.

Well i live in the Netherlands, NAPA stores are hard to find (read none) and specialy for American classics, i have to order all stuff from the States, i dont know yet what kind of brake fluid they have put in, i bought this Packard 2 weeks ago, maye its a good idea to flush the system also and poor in some fresh brake fluid.

I will go for the Jegs one then, wasnt sure the threat was ok, but if it is i can surely use it.

Thanx