I am very interested in your project. I, too, bought a McCulloch supercharger for my 1938 straight eight. It came with a spring-loaded belt tightener that pushes outward to tighten. I need to decide if I need the belt tightener. Photos on the internet of Packards show no tightener. I also need to drive an air conditioning compressor. I will mock this up, but right away I can tell that there is little room for a second belt. The fan is very close to the radiator.

Thanks for the suggestions! I had already thought about the engraver. I bought one just last week. I am making sketches and taking photos as I take things apart. Making sketches forces me to pay attention to small details, like which way a bend in a part points.

Thanks for answering the question I hadn't asked yet about the HT-178 Hand Rivet Clincher.

The pins on the ends (on one end) of the blades slip into holes in four curved assemblies (they may be called "bearing assemblies"). There is what looks like pressed paper inside metal channels. The holes are drilled in the pressed paper. Right or wrong, I removed the paper from one of those channels. Can I still buy that paper, or is there a substitute, like telfon block, that I could use? Thanks

I am disassembling my shutters so I can re-chrome the slats. I have removed the slat assembly, and I am drilling out the rivets. Anyone have suggestions as to the best way to do this. I don't want to bend any tabs on the individual slats.

Thanks.

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I am working to change my 1938 to 12 volts mainly because I want to add air conditioning (in Texas cool air is a good thing). I have the in-cab air conditioner/heater unit mounted. My instruments have been redone to be 12v and to include a voltmeter in place of an amp gauge.

I need to figure out how the shutters should operate. When the air conditioner wants cool air, I want the shutters to open. My plan is to put an actuator in the mechanical connection to the shutters to pull them open when the A/C needs air but the engine does not.

All of my wires needed to be replaced. At first I planned to keep the 6v positive ground, but I am working now on 12v negative ground. I have a Delco alternator, but I am figuring out how whether to use a 5/8" belt or a 1/2" belt. I would like to add a supercharger. The old VS57 Studebaker type superchargers used a 5/8" belt, I think. New superchargers use 1/2".

I have two 1938's. A suction cup works or one of those flat rubber grippers for removing jar tops.

Was the pivot at the bottom welded or soldered in place, or did it stay in position because the glass held it.

The reason I ask is that one of my pivots (on my two rear windows) was free to come out once the glass was removed. The other seems to be permanently attached. It is probably corrosion that is holding it in place, but it has a serious grip on it.

I still haven't got the hang of it. I'm having trouble right clicking and getting the "save as" option to show. If I could "save as", do I save it on my desktop? It is already saved as a Word document in my computer. Thanks, Jim.

Somehow I'm not able to copy/paste the picture or control-print the image onto the message. "Brain surgery is easy once one understands how to do it".

When I changed to Gmail earlier this year, I lost the knowledge of how to control-print images directly.

My old door window glass run channels (the U-shaped material with mohair inside)have metal "tongue" pieces at the bottom that slide into openings in the metal U-channel that is welded inside the doors. I have lost some of those "tongues". They have two holes for riveting to the run channel. I suspect the run channel deteriorated, they fell off, went to the bottom of the doors, and then disappeared.

Should I try to fabricate replacements or is there an easier way to hold the run channel in place? Thanks.

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Thanks! I'll ask him. Today he is on Christmas holiday.