Another choice is picture matting board. I have used that in the past, after skim coating each side with epoxy resin (not polyester resin). Good thickness, workability, durability, can laminate using epoxy to exactly match thickness. You can even complete all your access holes, and then do the epoxy thing, so that the edges of the holes are treated to prevent fraying or moisture intrusion. Trick came from my other hobby, boat building. Can easily get matting from art supply store chain like "Michael's". MCB

Welcome! You'll find everyone here very helpful as you embark on your new project. MCB

Another good outfit on the East Coast is Condon & Skelly (New Jersey, but they insure I think everywhere). They broker for an insurance company out of Minnesota. That is one factor; confirm what insurance company actually issues the policy. I've not filed a claim, but friends who have have been satisfied. Anyone who has had a claim is your best advisor here. MCB

Great post. Thanks to all. MCB

Thanks. The Canadian bezels have no clips, the lens is literally held in place by the spring pressure from the reflector. Seems like you hit one bump, and there goes the lens. No gasket, padding, all kinds of reasons to go to US buckets/bezels.

Thanks for the advice on the clips. I actually bought one replacement lens on ebaY - it came with the bezel and clips. I see the VERY distinct advantage; that's why I'm considering the bucket change.

Thanks to all for you advice/help on this. Asking "the man who owns one" remains a truism!

Packick, Thanks for you help. You 'splained it to me faster than I could ask the question!

I just recently bought the car, and thought I was dealing with just broken lenses. It was apparent that I was dealing with something other than that detailed in my tech literature. I am only glad that I could autopsy the broken lenses so that I could see how to handle assembly.

The lenses are installed dry - there are no obvious clips holding them into the chrome bezel, and the bezel stays behind while one pulls out the lens (only) at a 30 degree angle from vertical.

I'm researching correct lenses as you detailed above, but I'm also toying with the idea of swapping out to US buckets, bezels and lenses. Need a ruling on that... Another option is to adapt the US lenses with a gasketing arrangement on the inside of the bezel, to mimimize the possibility of breakage.

The lens chome bezel is very thin and fragile. It appears that it is meant to stay put, and definitely NOT come off when removing the lens. Nasty, with high degree of difficulty and expensive learning curve!

Thanks to all. The "region" detailed in the clipping from HH56 helps a lot. That zone is directly under the plug wires/loom. I'll dislodge that and see what I find. Thanks.

I did specfically look for the flat spot under the distributor, but came up empty. Distributor does have the "adjustment quandrant" (used to re-tune for gas octane), and thought that that gizmo was hiding the number, but did not want to move it just yet.

Thanks, Packick, for confirming what I have. My data plate is indeed a Windsor plate, with 1092-2xx listed. I'm gonna need some help with headlights as well, as the screw holding lenses, and chrome trim surrounding the lens, doesn't match anything for '37 Packards. May be a Canadian thing.... Will post separate question with pics on Saturday.

Does anyone have a picture showing the location of a engine block serial number for a 1937 Model 120?

It sounds like a simple question, but I have scoured the left side of the block on my Windsor, Ontario built 120 and cannot find a number, or a casting pad where it could be stamped.

I do have an oil filter on the very top left side, adjacent to the thermostat housing. It is bolted into the front left corner of the head. I can feel a flat spot under the bracket, but haven't dislodged the filter housing yet (I didn't think that the number would be stamped on the head).

It's gotta be there somewhere?!?

Thanks!