There's always plenty of credit to go around, especially on this very informative website. Your comment in the thread supported the 'just give your credit card and we'll mail it'solution offered by the person at Kanter, and helped me buy the right part. The result is a running engine, so everybody wins! Now if someone can locate one of those seemingly unique coil wire thumb screw connectors as pictured earlier above, I could satisfy the 'originality' side of this restoration, and move over to other threads. Thanks to all!

apologies, there was supposed to be a fourth photo that shows the actual cap screw.Here it is, and you can see its coil wire function and the problem it creates. the functional alternative cap allows the opportunity to search for this item, and try some molding efforts. Thanks!

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I thought it would be useful to close out this thread with a solution. Recall the topic was introduced because of the expense of the '38 Su8 Distributor cap (3 pieces $500-700). I'd like to give full credit to Stuart Blond at Kanter auto who suggested a replacement cap and rotor from the '38 120 which fits perfectly, and cost $35! It lets me run the engine on the stand, use better plug wires as it has a standard plug in set up, and I can continue to search to the 'grail' at a more attainable price. Curiously all I need is the 'female' thumb screw at the top (see attached photos)...tough to find so far. Thanks for all the responses. Knowing this level of expertise is reassuring when you're alone in the garage. Have a wonderful Holiday!

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Thanks for the welcome. I am the owner, and will add to the registry. The Packard Museum in Dayton is familiar territory, and I'm likely headed there today as I'm searching for a Carter BB-1 carb (for a completely different auto), and will tour the distributors in the parts area.
In response to this quote from 39Super8:
'Cap from an Autolite used on the 120 of the same era seems to work on my '39 that runs the same distributor as the '38 Super. About 20 bucks and seemingly available at NAPA.' I'll check with them...would you have a part number? The fitting of the cap to the distributor may be a problem as some are slotted and others use pins.
Lastly, before leaving the thread, I need to re-ask, 'Is there a potential concern for the advance curve? Wouldn't it need to be checked a made to match the original specs? ' Thanks.

This was my first post, and the response has been great! I appreciate the expertise and the rationale for the responses. We'll give the Chevy unit a try, and let you know how it turns out. Thanks for not beating me up for experimenting a little with improved touring in mind. I'm committed to maintaining the originality of these cars, and everything we're doing is easily reversed for the judging. Thanks again.

I'm happy to get more information on a replacement cap, and can post these measurements if they would help locate a good replacement. Part of what we're doing is simply experimentation, and trying to find some worthwhile modern alternatives, if there are any. The engine is out of the car, and available to testing. The rest of the restoration will take another year. Its being sone carefully and up to show standards. We're just keeping busy while the other elements of the restoration proceed.

Thanks to all on the replies. I'll check out the Chevy YouTube video, and would be encouraging of trying the GM HEI.One question, beyond the machining, wouldn't the advance curve need to be changed to match the Autolite? So there is more to it than just fitting the unit. I was thinking of a vacuum advance set-up. Also would there need to be some match with the coil? This is something I'd like to try and then report back on. We already have an adapter for a two-barrel Holley, and we plan on try it versus the stock EE-23. The engine is currently on its own self-contained stand, so we have plenty of latitude to experiment while the rest of the car is being restored.

We're finishing a restoration of a '38 Su8 Coupe roadster. We've made a number of hidden upgrades on the car for touring and drive-ability. With the '38 distributor cap being so expensive, is there a well-tested modern replacement distributor that anyone might recommend. I know Delco from the era is used, but I'm thinking even more modern, such as Mallory or Accel. This would be preferably be a point-based rather than electronic set-up, but either will be considered. It would be used as a quick replacement unit for touring, and save the use of the original unit. Any recommendations?'