Hello,
I imagine that Packard would have used the same method installing the window channel on all of its cars in this time period. If this is true then what I found on my 38 '8' may be of assistance.
The channel was attached by a toothed spring clip, with the teeth hooking into the channel itself and the body of the clip then a press fit into its housing.
I attempted to make some of these but was unsuccessful. the next best thing is to glue them in with contact adhesive.
Dennis.

Hello All,
I have bought a fuel pump kit from 'Then and Now Automotive' for my 1939 '8'. Very good service from them. They included a pamphlet detailing the assembly of pumps.
This pamphlet shows that the pumps were fitted with a 'air dome' on the fuel outlet. Mine is missing with the hole blanked off with a threaded plug.
I speculate that this was an aid to a more even flow of fuel to the carburetor. Am I correct?
Regards,
Dennis.

Hello All, Thanks for the replies to my query. I am overwhelmed by the interest in the subject. I will order a kit. Kind Regards. Dennis.

Thanks to you all for the interesting and useful comments. I am overwhelmed by the interest my query generated. At present I am using solely a vane electric pump as my mechanical is not working.
I will send for a kit as advised, and then the electric can be returned to its original purpose, which was to get fuel to the carburetor before starting.
Thanks and kind regards, Dennis.

Hello All,
Reference: 1938 Packard 8
Does anyone know of a supplier of fuel pump check valves for the double chamber fuel/ vacuum pump as fitted to a 1938 '8'.
The valves that I have are of the caged type 19mm in diameter.
The return springs feel very weak and the car looses power when climbing inclines, perhaps indicating fuel starvation.
Also does anyone have a good condition Stromberg EE-16 carburetor for sale.my car is fitted with the earlier EE-14,which was cobbled together from a number of pieces and has been a source of endless problems.
Regards,
Dennis Nielsen.

Hello All, from S. Africa.
Castrol, which is now part of BP' sell a product "Valve Master" for use with unleaded petrol. A word of warning about petrol containing alcohol, if you have a fuel pump fitted with an old type of diaphragm, i.e. not alcohol compatible, the alcohol will in time destroy the rubber of the diaphragm and these particles will end up blocking your carburetor.
I have had this experience with my 1938 '8'. As this car has its steering box on the RHS and right next to the fuel pump, removing said pump is not for the faint hearted. I was forced to remake the diaphragm using 3 layers of 0.5mm thick butyl rubber material which was imported from Australia.
Regards, Dennis

Hello All, Thanks for the information, sorry for the delay in registering my thanks, but other things[unfortunately] required my attention. I have fitted the required pipe and the engine now runs much better. The check valve that is mentioned is most interesting, I will make one. This drain pipe is of obvious importance otherwise the fuel drips on to the exhaust pipe, which could lead to a fire. I also have a Lancia which has a similar drain from its inlet manifold but with out a drain pipe, so when I rebuild its engine I will keep this item in mind, but here the inlet and exhaust manifolds are on opposite sides of the engine.
Regards Dennis.

Hello from South Africa, I am still busy with my '38 120, particularly sorting out the poor running of the engine. I use a Stromberg EE14 carburettor which I have finally got to work as it was designed, cold starting choke as well.
However I now find that there is a threaded hole in the inlet manifold just below where the inlet pipes join the main body. This obviously drains excess fuel from the manifold so preventing it running into the engine. Am I correct? I imagine that, as there is at present not a small diameter pipe connected to this hole, the excess air sucked in could account for the poor running of the engine. Has anyone got thoughts on this?
Kind Regards, Dennis.

Hello, Thanks for the replies. I have now got material which is nylon reinforced Nitrile rubber which is proof against alcohol/petrol mixes. As to getting stuck along the road,I have made provision for that eventuality by installing an electric pump as a stand-by.
To change the subject,in South Africa not being spoiled for choice, we are more inclined to go it alone and repair things ourselves. Perhaps it is the pioneering spirit.There is a term in Afrikaans for this---'n boer maak 'n plan. loosely translated this is, a farmer makes a plan.
Regards.

Hello All, I have spent the past year building a new 112 square meter workshop/showroom, so work on my 1938 120 has been on the back burner. On moving the car into it there was a catastrophic leak from the fuel pump. This was caused by the destruction of the diaphragm by the alcohol content of our petrol.
My experience of fuel diaphragms is that they are made of, usually. 3 separate layers of material approx 0.3 mm thick. To date I have not been able to source,locally, this thickness of material, the thinness being 1.5 mm. My question is why are diaphragms made with 3 layers and not 1? Is it perhaps a flexibility matter?
I know that I can source the thin material from overseas, but because of the weakness of our currency the price plus courier fees makes this simple job a very expensive one!!
If anyone can supply an answer to this, I will much appreciate it.
Regards,
Dennis.