I am at my wit's end. My '46 Packard starting motor keeps breaking the cast iron nose cone. The flywheel is true, the ring gear on the flywheel has been replaced, the starter has been rebuilt and then I purchased another one from Max Merritt Parts. Both wound up with broken nose cones. I installed a 'kill' switch on the starter to disable it while driving, just to avoid the possibility that it might try to engage when I was at speed. I still broke the cast nose cone. I have NEVER heard of this happening before on any vehicle, unless the timing was way off, causing the motor to buck backwards. My timing is perfect. The car runs like a dream and everything is perfect except for this. I am fresh out of ideas and welcome anyone who can point me in the right direction. It is far too costly for me to keep going on with trial and error. Thanks in advance.

Al

I had my starter repaired and since then it has broken two cast iron nose cones. The reputable rebuilder says it bench tests fine and is working correctly. I tend to believe them, because they rebuild starters and alternators for many of the mechanics here in Vegas. I am at a loss as to what may be happening. If anyone has any ideas, they would be very much appreciated. This is getting costly. Thanks.

Thanks for the info and especially, the picture. I'm a rookie, so it is much appreciated.

How do you remove the dash section containing all the guages? Tried looking behind, but with so many wires, etc.it was impossible to see. I need to remove the speedometer to clean and lubricate it. Have already done the cable. Thanks in advance.

Did the clutch test, as suggested and it goes into first just fine. I'm picking it up tomorrow and will go for a run to see if things shake out better after the mechanic's last go around. I want to thank everyone for their help and advice. I'll keep you posted.
Al

I bought the syncros from Max Merritt Packard Supply.

I have 90wt gear oil presently, although we tried a heavier viscosity that made it worse and 50wt motor oil to see if that helped, but, it didn't. I asked him about the clutch fully releasing and he said it was. As for the shop, they are reputable and specialize in drivelines. They have been around since the 70's. Dan's Driveline in Las Vegas.

I had my '46 transmission rebuilt with NOS parts to fix a syncro problem for 2nd and 3rd gears. It still grinds every time you shift unless you shift gears at less than 15 mph, and even then you get the occasional 'grind'. My mechanic is getting frustrated and I need any insight you can give me. I don't want to double-clutch for the rest of my life. Thanks.