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Board index » All Posts (JimGnitecki)




Re: wiring questions
#1
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JimGnitecki
A GREAT explanation, BigKev. Thank-you.

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/9/4 17:51
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Re: 48 packard 3 speed overdrive
#2
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JimGnitecki
The advice on resurrecting the solenoid is good. A new one costs about $265 I think. I base that on what Fifth Avenue garage charges for the 12 volt version that you need if you convert to 12 volts.

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/9/3 21:29
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Re: wiring questions
#3
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JimGnitecki
BigKev:

1. So, if I want to use a conventional ignition switch (with "Start" position) in place of the Packard ignition switch, I just bypass the carb switch, right?

2. What does the dashboard "battery light" do when you are running an alternator? When does it come on? I notice you have it wired to the "accessory" position.

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/9/3 21:25
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Re: Thermostat & retainer - can this REALLY be CORRECT??
#4
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JimGnitecki
Thank you both, BUT that $60 price was last refreshed, accoridng to the little note on website maintenance, in 2002! I suspect it costs more right now.

I have sent an email to the folks there, as there are no provisions for telephone contact at all. I've asked them how I can buy both the cast housing and the matching retainer (advertised on the same page, as I strongly suspect that retainer is DIFFERENT than the normal Packard one, as the part number is unique.

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/8/30 11:27
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Re: Thermostat & retainer - can this REALLY be CORRECT??
#5
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JimGnitecki
My nubs must have worn or rusted off over the years, I guess.

1. Where do I get a new reproduction or NOS thermostat housing?

2. I assume I will again need a new gasket, even if I do the replacement of the housing within a few days of installing today's new gasket?

3. I suppose that now there is a good possiblity that the darn thermostat will again fall out of position in the meantime. Any chance that the retainer ring could actually fall into the engine, or is that impossible? Should I disassemble again, remove the thermostat and retainer entirely, and run no thermostat until the new housing and gasket can be obtained? Its 95 to 100 degrees here right now virtually every day, so the thermostst should be wide open anyway vritually all the time except on startups.


Jim G

Posted on: 2008/8/29 21:17
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Re: Thermostat & retainer - can this REALLY be CORRECT??
#6
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JimGnitecki
BigKev: My themrostat housing:

(a) has NO nubs

(b) is entirely different in shape than yours, AND the base on mine is formed stamped metal,no cast like on yours.

How can this be????

My Packard is a 1952 200 Deluxe with 288 cubic inch 135 hp engine.

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/8/29 20:15
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Thermostat & retainer - can this REALLY be CORRECT??
#7
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JimGnitecki

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Posted on: 2008/8/29 19:26
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Re: "Special" items when converting to 12 volt?
#8
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JimGnitecki
Does an air conditioning compressor clutch draw power:

1. ONLY when engaging or disengaging? or

2. All the time when engaged?

I'm trying to figure out how LONG that 5 amps is required - brief bursts or continuous for minutes at a time?

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/8/29 13:06
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Re: "Special" items when converting to 12 volt?
#9
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JimGnitecki
HH56: With a dual pulley groove arrangement like in the photo, are BOTH grooves being driven ONLY when the AC compressor clutch is engaged? or, does the dual pulley get driven all the time, and the clutch only disconnects or connects the compressor itself?

That is, when the compressor clutch is NOT engaging the compressor to run, is the alternator being driven by its belt or not?

Not a big deal if it IS being driven all the time, but less efficient.

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/8/28 14:09
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Re: new to the group, need some advice/opinions
#10
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JimGnitecki
See my "Not what you would expect" thread in the "Modifications" section. :)

Jim G

Posted on: 2008/8/28 13:14
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