Re: Brake drum stuck to axle
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Quite a regular
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JD
It is very kind of you to offer. I will accept asap! The puller I made was a 5" bolt circle out of 1/4" plate. I welded a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to extend over the hub. I then made a 1/4" thick end to which I welded a 3/4" nut. I used a grade 8 bolt with an old universal joint spider cup for a bearing surface to push with. I greased the bolt. I gave it all I could, but got no movement. The 1/4" plates were bowing pretty badly. See picture (if it works). John from KC
Posted on: 2014/10/20 16:44
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Re: Brake drum stuck to axle
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Quite a regular
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JD
It is very kind of you to offer. I will accept asap! The puller I made was a 5" bolt circle out of 1/4" plate. I welded a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to extend over the hub. I then made a 1/4" thick end to which I welded a 3/4" nut. I used a grade 8 bolt with an old universal joint spider cup for a bearing surface to push with. I greased the bolt. I gave it all I could, but got no movement. The 1/4" plates were bowing pretty badly. See picture (if it works). John from KC
Posted on: 2014/10/20 16:37
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Brake drum stuck to axle
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Quite a regular
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All,
What is the best way to remove a rear brake drum that is stuck to the axle? I made a puller that fastens to the lug nuts and pushes on the end of the axle (similar to what is shown in a service manual), but even though it pushed VERY hard, there was no movement. Should I apply heat? The car is a '49 super 8. John from KC
Posted on: 2014/10/20 11:53
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Re: Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
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Quite a regular
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I used the pictured sealant material on my 1949 windshield successfully.
Posted on: 2014/7/23 17:57
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Re: Exterior Sunvisor
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Quite a regular
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Guys,
I am very interested in how the sun visor is actually fastened to the cars. I have one for my 49 Super, but am afraid to put it on. There is a bracket in the center of the windshield and there were holes in the rain gutter on the sides to fasten it to, but that doesn't look like it is substantial enough for the big sun shade. Does anyone have a picture? John From KC
Posted on: 2013/9/16 20:12
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Re: Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
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Quite a regular
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Owen:
Thanks for the replies. I will look for the 3M product. I didn't want the sticky stuff that glues the glass down as is used on modern cars. Just a note to clarify: The molding IS part of the weather sealing on a 22nd-23rd car. The car windshield frame to the molding MUST be sealed (with sealant). The molding to the rubber could be ok without sealant (I saw no evidence of sealant residue). Probably the clamping force from the interior trim holds this seal firmly tight. The glass to rubber might be ok without sealant (I DID see evidence of residue there)but I will apply sealant there. The corners at the center post probably require sealant (my car has some damage to the rubber there). John from KC
Posted on: 2013/8/27 11:24
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Re: Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
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Quite a regular
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Actually, my rubber is in surprisingly good shape. The metal-to-metal (stainless to windshield frame) has the sealant residue that I want to renew when I reinstall the glass.
My windshield was broken in the distant past when a tree fell on the car prior to when I owned the car. I want to try for a leak free installation when I put the new glass in. John from KC
Posted on: 2013/8/27 10:50
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
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Quite a regular
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All,
What is a good sealant for use between the windshield frame and the stainless molding? There is a black residue that remained when I removed the windshield. It definitely needs a sealant to prevent leakage!
Posted on: 2013/8/27 9:44
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John Series 23 Super 8
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Re: Removing Steering Idler
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Quite a regular
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Mystery solved on the idler arm to the bracket. The bushing assembly rotates on internal left hand threads on the bracket and is fastened to the idler arm with right hand threads on the outside of the assy. Since the bearing surface is actually the left hand threads, grease will take up the slack quite nicely.
I did not get the ball socket out of the steering connecting rod. I would still like to know if there is a trick to it. At any rate, the car drives like a tired 64 year old going on 45 instead of like a roller coaster about to come off of the rails after tightening the connecting rod and greasing the idler. (And installing an anti-sway bar). Thanks
Posted on: 2013/8/20 16:05
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John Series 23 Super 8
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