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Board index » All Posts (jgrjr)




Re: Brake drum stuck to axle
#1
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
All,

JD from KC was kind enough to loan me his dog bone hub puller. It worked perfectly. In a matter of a few seconds of furious pounding with a 2 1/2 lb hammer on the dog bone, the hub popped free.

SO: Verdict is get the right tool and the job is quick and easy!

(JD's post was earlier in the thread and had a picture of the puller that worked perfectly!)

Thanks,

John

Posted on: 2014/10/21 10:13
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Re: Brake drum stuck to axle
#2
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
JD

It is very kind of you to offer. I will accept asap!

The puller I made was a 5" bolt circle out of 1/4" plate. I welded a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to extend over the hub. I then made a 1/4" thick end to which I welded a 3/4" nut. I used a grade 8 bolt with an old universal joint spider cup for a bearing surface to push with. I greased the bolt.

I gave it all I could, but got no movement.

The 1/4" plates were bowing pretty badly.

See picture (if it works).

John from KC

Attach file:



jpg  (44.23 KB)
8203_544581be5eb49.jpg 640X480 px

Posted on: 2014/10/20 16:44
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Re: Brake drum stuck to axle
#3
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
JD

It is very kind of you to offer. I will accept asap!

The puller I made was a 5" bolt circle out of 1/4" plate. I welded a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to extend over the hub. I then made a 1/4" thick end to which I welded a 3/4" nut. I used a grade 8 bolt with an old universal joint spider cup for a bearing surface to push with. I greased the bolt.

I gave it all I could, but got no movement.

The 1/4" plates were bowing pretty badly.

See picture (if it works).

John from KC

Attach file:



jpg  (44.23 KB)
8203_5445809347318.jpg 640X480 px

Posted on: 2014/10/20 16:37
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Brake drum stuck to axle
#4
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
All,

What is the best way to remove a rear brake drum that is stuck to the axle? I made a puller that fastens to the lug nuts and pushes on the end of the axle (similar to what is shown in a service manual), but even though it pushed VERY hard, there was no movement.

Should I apply heat?

The car is a '49 super 8.

John from KC

Posted on: 2014/10/20 11:53
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Re: Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
#5
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
I used the pictured sealant material on my 1949 windshield successfully.

Posted on: 2014/7/23 17:57
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Re: Exterior Sunvisor
#6
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
Guys,

I am very interested in how the sun visor is actually fastened to the cars. I have one for my 49 Super, but am afraid to put it on. There is a bracket in the center of the windshield and there were holes in the rain gutter on the sides to fasten it to, but that doesn't look like it is substantial enough for the big sun shade.

Does anyone have a picture?

John From KC

Posted on: 2013/9/16 20:12
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Re: Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
#7
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
Owen:

Thanks for the replies. I will look for the 3M product. I didn't want the sticky stuff that glues the glass down as is used on modern cars.

Just a note to clarify: The molding IS part of the weather sealing on a 22nd-23rd car.

The car windshield frame to the molding MUST be sealed (with sealant). The molding to the rubber could be ok without sealant (I saw no evidence of sealant residue). Probably the clamping force from the interior trim holds this seal firmly tight. The glass to rubber might be ok without sealant (I DID see evidence of residue there)but I will apply sealant there. The corners at the center post probably require sealant (my car has some damage to the rubber there).

John from KC

Posted on: 2013/8/27 11:24
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Re: Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
#8
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
Actually, my rubber is in surprisingly good shape. The metal-to-metal (stainless to windshield frame) has the sealant residue that I want to renew when I reinstall the glass.

My windshield was broken in the distant past when a tree fell on the car prior to when I owned the car. I want to try for a leak free installation when I put the new glass in.

John from KC

Posted on: 2013/8/27 10:50
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding
#9
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
All,

What is a good sealant for use between the windshield frame and the stainless molding? There is a black residue that remained when I removed the windshield.

It definitely needs a sealant to prevent leakage!

Posted on: 2013/8/27 9:44
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 


Re: Removing Steering Idler
#10
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

John Rogers
Mystery solved on the idler arm to the bracket. The bushing assembly rotates on internal left hand threads on the bracket and is fastened to the idler arm with right hand threads on the outside of the assy. Since the bearing surface is actually the left hand threads, grease will take up the slack quite nicely.

I did not get the ball socket out of the steering connecting rod. I would still like to know if there is a trick to it.

At any rate, the car drives like a tired 64 year old going on 45 instead of like a roller coaster about to come off of the rails after tightening the connecting rod and greasing the idler. (And installing an anti-sway bar).

Thanks

Posted on: 2013/8/20 16:05
John Series 23 Super 8
 Top 



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